Removing OEM Hitch
06-19-2018, 09:59 AM
#11
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You really should let people know what state and town you live in to make this happen. I know a guy here Denver, CO who wants a cheap hitch. Also the process is pretty simple. Take the bumper off, take out some of the interior panels in the hatch, unplug the wire harness, remove 4 bolts holding the hitch on, put the aluminum bumper beam on, and put it all back together. Yes you will likely have to code the car to remove the OEM hitch, especially if you have side assist or similar options.
Located in New York, Long Island to be exact
correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't side assist only change if I plugged in trailer lights? or is it calibrated with a trailer whether or not a trailer is attached
06-19-2018, 10:05 AM
#12
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Anyway you can test the theory of not needing codes changed by going in the hatch, unplugging the module, go for a drive and see what happens. Pretty easy.
06-19-2018, 10:52 AM
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06-19-2018, 01:42 PM
#14
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krs-
Your SQ5 is not the same as my Q5, but the OEM approach looks the same. What is generally called the "bumper cross beam", a structural bar that IS the metal bumper structure, is what they change at Audi. You're talking about dropping the bumper cover and any padding or trim related, possibly releasing the light harnesses to do that, and then removing the heavy bolts (properly torqued!) that hold a structural cross-beam on the back end of the car. And then replacing it all again.
That, and removing the trailer wiring harness and control module, and reprogramming the car, because the transmission, cooling systems, ABS/ESC, should all be tied into that, taking into account a different load if there's a trailer being sensed.
Not an impossible job--just a big one. When and if you decide to sell the car, you may be knocking something off the price, as compared to an SQ5 that already HAS all of that built in from the factory, because it is an expensive retrofit.
I know aesthetics do count, but personally? I'd find a way to just cover up the ugly parts. On the SQ5 there used to be a valance panel available (sometimes discarded by the dealer or PO) that would cover up the entire trailer fitting, IIRC. Might be worth exploring that before you jump into a major project.
Your SQ5 is not the same as my Q5, but the OEM approach looks the same. What is generally called the "bumper cross beam", a structural bar that IS the metal bumper structure, is what they change at Audi. You're talking about dropping the bumper cover and any padding or trim related, possibly releasing the light harnesses to do that, and then removing the heavy bolts (properly torqued!) that hold a structural cross-beam on the back end of the car. And then replacing it all again.
That, and removing the trailer wiring harness and control module, and reprogramming the car, because the transmission, cooling systems, ABS/ESC, should all be tied into that, taking into account a different load if there's a trailer being sensed.
Not an impossible job--just a big one. When and if you decide to sell the car, you may be knocking something off the price, as compared to an SQ5 that already HAS all of that built in from the factory, because it is an expensive retrofit.
I know aesthetics do count, but personally? I'd find a way to just cover up the ugly parts. On the SQ5 there used to be a valance panel available (sometimes discarded by the dealer or PO) that would cover up the entire trailer fitting, IIRC. Might be worth exploring that before you jump into a major project.
06-19-2018, 09:48 PM
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06-20-2018, 10:07 AM
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thanks, Im pretty sure we all knew what you meant, just why waste an entire hitch instead of replacing it and giving it to someone who could use it
06-20-2018, 10:15 AM
#19
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I don't have the valance with the cut out right now so to me its even worse that there's a hitch and no cover around it
Thanks for your response and to me the job wouldnt take long or bother me at all doing. The car didn't come with the valance and I've since purchased it. Im not willing to cut up the valance either, just would like to take the hitch off. The only question I do have is this. If my car does not have a trailer on it, is the transmission, cooling systems, ABS/ESC setup differently from a SQ5 without a hitch. Or does it only change when I attach a trailer? Meaning, is my SQ5 setup for a trailer at all times? If that's the case, I feel my SQ5 would be lacking some power and overcompensating at all times
I agree it is, however I have no use for any of the such. I'm coming from a 2 door car and this is more than enough room for me. Besides, I have a F350 pickup truck if I need to tow or haul some serious stuff
krs-
Your SQ5 is not the same as my Q5, but the OEM approach looks the same. What is generally called the "bumper cross beam", a structural bar that IS the metal bumper structure, is what they change at Audi. You're talking about dropping the bumper cover and any padding or trim related, possibly releasing the light harnesses to do that, and then removing the heavy bolts (properly torqued!) that hold a structural cross-beam on the back end of the car. And then replacing it all again.
That, and removing the trailer wiring harness and control module, and reprogramming the car, because the transmission, cooling systems, ABS/ESC, should all be tied into that, taking into account a different load if there's a trailer being sensed.
Not an impossible job--just a big one. When and if you decide to sell the car, you may be knocking something off the price, as compared to an SQ5 that already HAS all of that built in from the factory, because it is an expensive retrofit.
I know aesthetics do count, but personally? I'd find a way to just cover up the ugly parts. On the SQ5 there used to be a valance panel available (sometimes discarded by the dealer or PO) that would cover up the entire trailer fitting, IIRC. Might be worth exploring that before you jump into a major project.
Your SQ5 is not the same as my Q5, but the OEM approach looks the same. What is generally called the "bumper cross beam", a structural bar that IS the metal bumper structure, is what they change at Audi. You're talking about dropping the bumper cover and any padding or trim related, possibly releasing the light harnesses to do that, and then removing the heavy bolts (properly torqued!) that hold a structural cross-beam on the back end of the car. And then replacing it all again.
That, and removing the trailer wiring harness and control module, and reprogramming the car, because the transmission, cooling systems, ABS/ESC, should all be tied into that, taking into account a different load if there's a trailer being sensed.
Not an impossible job--just a big one. When and if you decide to sell the car, you may be knocking something off the price, as compared to an SQ5 that already HAS all of that built in from the factory, because it is an expensive retrofit.
I know aesthetics do count, but personally? I'd find a way to just cover up the ugly parts. On the SQ5 there used to be a valance panel available (sometimes discarded by the dealer or PO) that would cover up the entire trailer fitting, IIRC. Might be worth exploring that before you jump into a major project.
I agree it is, however I have no use for any of the such. I'm coming from a 2 door car and this is more than enough room for me. Besides, I have a F350 pickup truck if I need to tow or haul some serious stuff
06-28-2018, 10:47 AM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
"just why waste an entire hitch instead of" Because removing the factory bumper structural cross-brace, which is how you remove the integral factory hitch, can take HOURS or labor. Bumper cover, bumper, not a quick job for most folks. Cutting the hitch off is a horrid waste and probably devalues the car by a fast $500 on the used market (or more) but it is much faster and simpler.
There is one gotcha: The factory towing eye points? The knock-outs in the rear bumper where you insert a towing screw if you need to tow the car or pull it out of a ditch? Ah, at least in 2014 there was only one tow point (right side) on the rear bumper, and when you have the factory trailer hitch bumper, there ARE NO TOWING POINTS. You are expected to hitch up to the towing hitch, since it is a structural part of the bumper.
Also, the towing hitch makes a great lift point. AAA was poking around my car's body weld, about to jack one wheel to plug a leak, when I just showed him the structural hitch and said "Lift from there". That way there's no body damage possible.
So, it has some useful points.
kr-
No, you are not in "towing mode" all the time. You are never in towing mode--unless the factory installed CanBus module detects that you have plugged in a trailer to the electrical harness, and then it automatically shifts programming. (Transmission, ABS, ESC, alternator, no one is sure of the whole list it may change.)
On a similar point, if you put the roof rack cross-bars on, the d/s front bar has a third pin on it, and that trips a magnet sensor in the rails. Even if the racks are empty, the ESC system will assume you've got an extra 200(?) pounds up there and be more conservative about allowing you to roll over. That one's an over-engineered PITA, because there's no real good place to stow the cross-bars.
There is one gotcha: The factory towing eye points? The knock-outs in the rear bumper where you insert a towing screw if you need to tow the car or pull it out of a ditch? Ah, at least in 2014 there was only one tow point (right side) on the rear bumper, and when you have the factory trailer hitch bumper, there ARE NO TOWING POINTS. You are expected to hitch up to the towing hitch, since it is a structural part of the bumper.
Also, the towing hitch makes a great lift point. AAA was poking around my car's body weld, about to jack one wheel to plug a leak, when I just showed him the structural hitch and said "Lift from there". That way there's no body damage possible.
So, it has some useful points.
kr-
No, you are not in "towing mode" all the time. You are never in towing mode--unless the factory installed CanBus module detects that you have plugged in a trailer to the electrical harness, and then it automatically shifts programming. (Transmission, ABS, ESC, alternator, no one is sure of the whole list it may change.)
On a similar point, if you put the roof rack cross-bars on, the d/s front bar has a third pin on it, and that trips a magnet sensor in the rails. Even if the racks are empty, the ESC system will assume you've got an extra 200(?) pounds up there and be more conservative about allowing you to roll over. That one's an over-engineered PITA, because there's no real good place to stow the cross-bars.