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Replaced fuse box, care wont start, key stuck

Old 08-21-2017, 09:26 AM
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Default Replaced fuse box, care wont start, key stuck

I replaced the engine bay fuse box on my 2011 Audi A3 TDI. It went incredibly smooth - all I had to do was unbolt about 8 bolts from the old one, and move them to the new one. I was very careful not to mix up any of the cables (which is easy because audi has them in a harness). I switched over the fuses one by one, checking and testing each one. I even took a before picture and double checked with the picture and my operators manual that the fuses were the correct amp and location. I reconnected the battery when I was done and thought to myself "this was the smoothest fix I've every done on a car".

When I put the key in the ignition and turned to on I got multiple dash errors.

1) Blinking "P"
2) TPMS TIre Pressure! System Malfunction - This is understandable because I put new rims and tires and forgot to move the TPMS sensors over. I'll have to fix that another day
3) "To start engine or select gear apply foot brake when stationary". This is weird because I am applying the brake
4) Check engine light (yellow)
5) Batter light (red)
6) BRAKE (red)
7) Steering wheel light (red)

The lights could be because the key is "on" but the engine isn't turned over.

I tried to turn it over, which it sounds like its trying to do but it never actually starts. The key is stuck in the ignition, the fab doesn't work, the power windows/locks don't work, it wont shift into N, and the only way to get the key out of it is by disconnecting the battery.

I've read a lot of posts and haven't been able to find the answer. Could be immobilizer, but does that mean the immobilizer gets fubared every time the battery is disconnected? Is there anything I can do other than having it towed to the dealership?

Thanks for any and all help.
Old 08-21-2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by crooksymonster
I replaced the engine bay fuse box on my 2011 Audi A3 TDI. It went incredibly smooth - all I had to do was unbolt about 8 bolts from the old one, and move them to the new one. I was very careful not to mix up any of the cables (which is easy because audi has them in a harness). I switched over the fuses one by one, checking and testing each one. I even took a before picture and double checked with the picture and my operators manual that the fuses were the correct amp and location. I reconnected the battery when I was done and thought to myself "this was the smoothest fix I've every done on a car".

When I put the key in the ignition and turned to on I got multiple dash errors.

1) Blinking "P"
2) TPMS TIre Pressure! System Malfunction - This is understandable because I put new rims and tires and forgot to move the TPMS sensors over. I'll have to fix that another day
3) "To start engine or select gear apply foot brake when stationary". This is weird because I am applying the brake
4) Check engine light (yellow)
5) Batter light (red)
6) BRAKE (red)
7) Steering wheel light (red)

The lights could be because the key is "on" but the engine isn't turned over.

I tried to turn it over, which it sounds like its trying to do but it never actually starts. The key is stuck in the ignition, the fab doesn't work, the power windows/locks don't work, it wont shift into N, and the only way to get the key out of it is by disconnecting the battery.

I've read a lot of posts and haven't been able to find the answer. Could be immobilizer, but does that mean the immobilizer gets fubared every time the battery is disconnected? Is there anything I can do other than having it towed to the dealership?

Thanks for any and all help.

The first thing you need to do is clear all the error DTC codes using. for example, a VCDS unit.

One time I removed the CAN buss connector on the front right fuse panel and tried to start the engine, it threw about 10 major error codes on various systems. Replacing the CAN buss connector to the fuse panel didn't fix anything, same errors.

I then cleared all error DTCs and all was back to normal.

Plus if you can read any DTCs with a VCDS it may help you pinpoint the problem.
Old 05-05-2022, 06:02 PM
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Default No start

Originally Posted by crooksymonster
I replaced the engine bay fuse box on my 2011 Audi A3 TDI. It went incredibly smooth - all I had to do was unbolt about 8 bolts from the old one, and move them to the new one. I was very careful not to mix up any of the cables (which is easy because audi has them in a harness). I switched over the fuses one by one, checking and testing each one. I even took a before picture and double checked with the picture and my operators manual that the fuses were the correct amp and location. I reconnected the battery when I was done and thought to myself "this was the smoothest fix I've every done on a car".

When I put the key in the ignition and turned to on I got multiple dash errors.

1) Blinking "P"
2) TPMS TIre Pressure! System Malfunction - This is understandable because I put new rims and tires and forgot to move the TPMS sensors over. I'll have to fix that another day
3) "To start engine or select gear apply foot brake when stationary". This is weird because I am applying the brake
4) Check engine light (yellow)
5) Batter light (red)
6) BRAKE (red)
7) Steering wheel light (red)

The lights could be because the key is "on" but the engine isn't turned over.

I tried to turn it over, which it sounds like its trying to do but it never actually starts. The key is stuck in the ignition, the fab doesn't work, the power windows/locks don't work, it wont shift into N, and the only way to get the key out of it is by disconnecting the battery.

I've read a lot of posts and haven't been able to find the answer. Could be immobilizer, but does that mean the immobilizer gets fubared every time the battery is disconnected? Is there anything I can do other than having it towed to the dealership?

Thanks for any and all help.
Came across this today in my search for the same symptoms. Replaced the fuse box in my A3 TDI, powered on and cranked but no start and multiple errors. Found there was a metal distributor plate on the front that needed to be moved from the old box to the new and everything worked just fine. Hope this helps someone else.
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