Rust spots on paint (Glacier White Metallic)
#22
AudiWorld Super User
A clay bar is basically 3000-grit abrasive mixed with clay. You can get the same result with 3M Finesse polish, same 3000 grit, and a proper wool polishing wheel. FWIW.
The cars come with a 10-year perforation/rust guarantee of some kind on the paint, I don't have the details at hand and don't know if that would transfer to a second owner, but it is worth letting a dealer look at this. No charge for looking.
And, to take a 10x-20x loupe, or USB microscope/camera, to see if these are just embedded particles, or rust coming through from below. Always better to see it with your own eyes and be sure of what it is. Rust particles from railroad tracks/wheels are a problem even if it is just a rail yard next to the truckstop, or a rail line running parallel with a highway.
The cars come with a 10-year perforation/rust guarantee of some kind on the paint, I don't have the details at hand and don't know if that would transfer to a second owner, but it is worth letting a dealer look at this. No charge for looking.
And, to take a 10x-20x loupe, or USB microscope/camera, to see if these are just embedded particles, or rust coming through from below. Always better to see it with your own eyes and be sure of what it is. Rust particles from railroad tracks/wheels are a problem even if it is just a rail yard next to the truckstop, or a rail line running parallel with a highway.
#23
AudiWorld Super User
A clay bar is basically 3000-grit abrasive mixed with clay. You can get the same result with 3M Finesse polish, same 3000 grit, and a proper wool polishing wheel. FWIW.
The cars come with a 10-year perforation/rust guarantee of some kind on the paint, I don't have the details at hand and don't know if that would transfer to a second owner, but it is worth letting a dealer look at this. No charge for looking.
And, to take a 10x-20x loupe, or USB microscope/camera, to see if these are just embedded particles, or rust coming through from below. Always better to see it with your own eyes and be sure of what it is. Rust particles from railroad tracks/wheels are a problem even if it is just a rail yard next to the truckstop, or a rail line running parallel with a highway.
The cars come with a 10-year perforation/rust guarantee of some kind on the paint, I don't have the details at hand and don't know if that would transfer to a second owner, but it is worth letting a dealer look at this. No charge for looking.
And, to take a 10x-20x loupe, or USB microscope/camera, to see if these are just embedded particles, or rust coming through from below. Always better to see it with your own eyes and be sure of what it is. Rust particles from railroad tracks/wheels are a problem even if it is just a rail yard next to the truckstop, or a rail line running parallel with a highway.
Normal detailing buffing will remove this iron dust with ease. Also the Audi perforation warranty is only applicable if the corrosion in from the inside out.
#24
AudiWorld Super User
Fortunately I am color blind, I have never noticed rusting specks from brake dust on a car. Dirt, excrement, pollen, mold under the paint bra, yes. But embedded iron particles like that? Never seen it, must be colorblind. Or maybe the Collinite has anti-magnetic properties.(G)
I know there's brake rotor rust, all I have to do is park for three days and listen to them squeal as the rust releases when I move.
I know there's brake rotor rust, all I have to do is park for three days and listen to them squeal as the rust releases when I move.
#25
AudiWorld Super User
Fortunately I am color blind, I have never noticed rusting specks from brake dust on a car. Dirt, excrement, pollen, mold under the paint bra, yes. But embedded iron particles like that? Never seen it, must be colorblind. Or maybe the Collinite has anti-magnetic properties.(G)
I know there's brake rotor rust, all I have to do is park for three days and listen to them squeal as the rust releases when I move.
I know there's brake rotor rust, all I have to do is park for three days and listen to them squeal as the rust releases when I move.
#26
AudiWorld Junior Member
I’m hoping you aren’t trolling me with that response. In the event that was a serious reply, I’ll oblige an answer in case others have had this cross their mind as well.In your case, you shipped your vehicle and it’s been exposed to rail dust. This is iron particulate that rests on the paint’s surface and now is corroding.Your car isn’t rusting.The contaminant sitting on top of the paint is.White shows rust extremely well, so you see it as opposed to if you had a black or darker vehicle color.The same thing happens with brake dust. Larger particles can get stuck on your paint surface along the side and rear of your vehicle and then you see the little orange spots everywhere.If you do not detail/care for your vehicle for whatever reason, then you will have to pay someone to clay bar the vehicle to remove the rust/contaminates on the surface.It’s not difficult, but is time consuming. Then after clay, you would usually seal (wax/polish) to help protect the paint and make it less likely to get re-contaminated until that coating/polish/wax/whatever wears off again.Wash your vehicle frequently by hand to reduce buildup.Going to the dealer to tell them the car is rusting will result in a referral to a detail service at your expense.I’ve owned three white vehicles of different manufacturers, they all have this issue. It’s nothing abnormal.
#27
AudiWorld Junior Member
Ceramic paint coatings aid how much less work it will take to remove the rust spots, but no - it won’t magically make the particles fall off the vehicle like the commercials say they will.
I used 2 coats of 9H on my Audi and will never go that route again.
I used 2 coats of 9H on my Audi and will never go that route again.
#28
AudiWorld Super User
Minca-
Do you ever drive under the el, or park within a block of it? Rail car wheels are steel, tracks are steel, the combination is infamous for throwing steel dust in the air and contaminating everything for a good hundred yards around it. Something like that could be the source of the iron particles that are making rusty spots on your paint.
Regular car washing can help remove them. Clay bars are easy to use, they also pull out debris. But the "ceramic" coatings are mainly high priced polishes, of varying mystery ingredients. A good wax job will help pull things out and help protect the paint. The "polish" applied at most car washes is chosen mainly because it is cheap--not necessarily good. The ceramic guys...there's some new miracle product at an extreme price every decade, going back at least to Polyglycote in the late 70's. That sold to dealerships for maybe $20 a tube, they resold it, applied, for hundreds of dollars. Instead of charging $25 for a Simonize job. Same same, even if the products are glossier and more durable now.
Do you ever drive under the el, or park within a block of it? Rail car wheels are steel, tracks are steel, the combination is infamous for throwing steel dust in the air and contaminating everything for a good hundred yards around it. Something like that could be the source of the iron particles that are making rusty spots on your paint.
Regular car washing can help remove them. Clay bars are easy to use, they also pull out debris. But the "ceramic" coatings are mainly high priced polishes, of varying mystery ingredients. A good wax job will help pull things out and help protect the paint. The "polish" applied at most car washes is chosen mainly because it is cheap--not necessarily good. The ceramic guys...there's some new miracle product at an extreme price every decade, going back at least to Polyglycote in the late 70's. That sold to dealerships for maybe $20 a tube, they resold it, applied, for hundreds of dollars. Instead of charging $25 for a Simonize job. Same same, even if the products are glossier and more durable now.
#29
AudiWorld Junior Member
Minca-
Do you ever drive under the el, or park within a block of it? Rail car wheels are steel, tracks are steel, the combination is infamous for throwing steel dust in the air and contaminating everything for a good hundred yards around it. Something like that could be the source of the iron particles that are making rusty spots on your paint.
Regular car washing can help remove them. Clay bars are easy to use, they also pull out debris. But the "ceramic" coatings are mainly high priced polishes, of varying mystery ingredients. A good wax job will help pull things out and help protect the paint. The "polish" applied at most car washes is chosen mainly because it is cheap--not necessarily good. The ceramic guys...there's some new miracle product at an extreme price every decade, going back at least to Polyglycote in the late 70's. That sold to dealerships for maybe $20 a tube, they resold it, applied, for hundreds of dollars. Instead of charging $25 for a Simonize job. Same same, even if the products are glossier and more durable now.
Do you ever drive under the el, or park within a block of it? Rail car wheels are steel, tracks are steel, the combination is infamous for throwing steel dust in the air and contaminating everything for a good hundred yards around it. Something like that could be the source of the iron particles that are making rusty spots on your paint.
Regular car washing can help remove them. Clay bars are easy to use, they also pull out debris. But the "ceramic" coatings are mainly high priced polishes, of varying mystery ingredients. A good wax job will help pull things out and help protect the paint. The "polish" applied at most car washes is chosen mainly because it is cheap--not necessarily good. The ceramic guys...there's some new miracle product at an extreme price every decade, going back at least to Polyglycote in the late 70's. That sold to dealerships for maybe $20 a tube, they resold it, applied, for hundreds of dollars. Instead of charging $25 for a Simonize job. Same same, even if the products are glossier and more durable now.
#30
Iron deposits like your describing is inevitably going to happen on any daily driven vehicle, especially in areas that have less than favorable weather. Routine usage of an iron remover like Iron-X and the application of a polymer sealant is your best defense. Obv. a good ceramic coating will help even more and give you a bit more longevity, but you will still have to routinely remove these deposits.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kontakterr61
A4 (B6 Platform) Discussion
2
03-01-2003 05:53 AM
TTnavA
Auto Detailing Discussion
6
02-02-2003 07:25 PM