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2018 Audi SQ5 Tuning - DTE / DTUK module

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Old 04-15-2018, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron.S
I would have expected more improvement. 1/2 second is about 5 car lengths. Are you using the PedalBox and holding the brake to build boost at launch?
I find the Pedal Box used in conjunction with the Tuner module sometimes creates more issues upon shifting. So, I used the standard Launch Control in Dynamic Sport mode with the Traction control turned off. I also had a half tank of gas to represent real world driving conditions. I think my snow tires hurt my mph a little. So, hopefully my summer tires and maybe a 1/3 tank of gas, along with +1 or +2 stages on map 3 (Eco) will get me to break the 13 second barrier. I am using map 3 because Aaron said it is the most linear and USDM specific. I have to say the SQ5 shifted great at WOT with no stumbling. It ran better at full throttle than partial throttle as you would drive around town per se.

I did not use the Pedal Box along with the Launch Control because I think the car would kill the launch when it feels the added pressure in order to save the tranny. I deep staged once and the other driver slowly deep staged, and my launch control cancelled out because it held for too long and I just normally took off. I think the Pedal Box might cause the same thing. Has anyone had any luck using Launch Control with the Pedal Box and Tuner Box both engaged?

I turned off the tuner module now because I simply do not like the stumbling and throttle cut feeling upon shifts. For every day driving, I used the pedal box on Green City +2 and the car has plenty of scoot down low for day to day driving. Like I said, I will have more to report in a couple of weeks when I run it again with my summer tires and wheels. I would be interested to see what other 2018 SQ5's are running with the DTUK Tuner.
Old 04-16-2018, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 2018-SQ5
I find the Pedal Box used in conjunction with the Tuner module sometimes creates more issues upon shifting. So, I used the standard Launch Control in Dynamic Sport mode with the Traction control turned off. I also had a half tank of gas to represent real world driving conditions. I think my snow tires hurt my mph a little. So, hopefully my summer tires and maybe a 1/3 tank of gas, along with +1 or +2 stages on map 3 (Eco) will get me to break the 13 second barrier. I am using map 3 because Aaron said it is the most linear and USDM specific. I have to say the SQ5 shifted great at WOT with no stumbling. It ran better at full throttle than partial throttle as you would drive around town per se.

I did not use the Pedal Box along with the Launch Control because I think the car would kill the launch when it feels the added pressure in order to save the tranny. I deep staged once and the other driver slowly deep staged, and my launch control cancelled out because it held for too long and I just normally took off. I think the Pedal Box might cause the same thing. Has anyone had any luck using Launch Control with the Pedal Box and Tuner Box both engaged?

I turned off the tuner module now because I simply do not like the stumbling and throttle cut feeling upon shifts. For every day driving, I used the pedal box on Green City +2 and the car has plenty of scoot down low for day to day driving. Like I said, I will have more to report in a couple of weeks when I run it again with my summer tires and wheels. I would be interested to see what other 2018 SQ5's are running with the DTUK Tuner.
Thanks, that’s about all you can do to max launch. Since there’s no factory launch control on the SQ5 it’s my understanding that you only have 5 seconds after initiating manually. I’m confused by your comment about Program 3 “Eco”. I thought it was just an adaptation with a more linear delivery of power. To me Eco means economy!!!
Edit: You might ask Aaron about using the PedalBox....it might not cause a problem if the Launch is RPM limiting to 2500.

Last edited by Ron.S; 04-16-2018 at 06:13 AM.
Old 05-12-2018, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron.S


Thanks, that’s about all you can do to max launch. Since there’s no factory launch control on the SQ5 it’s my understanding that you only have 5 seconds after initiating manually. I’m confused by your comment about Program 3 “Eco”. I thought it was just an adaptation with a more linear delivery of power. To me Eco means economy!!!
Edit: You might ask Aaron about using the PedalBox....it might not cause a problem if the Launch is RPM limiting to 2500.
According to the manual, that is the factory version of Launch Control for the brand. All the cars in the current Audi lineup use the same method. It works well unless you hold the throttle down more than 5 seconds like you said.

Well, I took my car to the track again this past week and here are my findings. My best run was a 13.42 @ 101.32 mph as compared to my last outing which netted a 13.1 @ 103 mph. I find my best times occur when I am using the Map 3 - 0 setting. I find my SQ5 likes that setting the most. Now, two factors may have also contributed to my slower times this time around. It ranged in temperature from a high of 82 to a low of 66 after the sun went down. So, it was a warm day at the track as compared to the cool 50 degree day when I ran last time. Also, I had my factory Audi 21" wheels on which are much heavier than the winter OZ wheels I used previously. BTW, I ran with a half tank of 93 octane fuel.

I also tried Map 3 + 2, and the car was only a tenth of a second quicker than stock. I also tried Map 1 - 0 and that was about the same result. Partially because the shifting pauses during the WOT power delivery as mentioned previously. I feel Map 3 - 0 delivers the most linear power delivery and supposedly the max power gains are similar in all the different modes. So, it probably really doesn't matter.

I did some research and found out that the SQ5 weighs about 600 more pounds than the S4. Add my body weight to that which is about 270 lbs and I may never break into the 12's on the 21" wheels using only the DTUK Tuner.

My last effort to improve performance will be to manually shift down the track, and short shifting at 6000 rpm versus letting the automatic run to redline. Apparently, Mr. Burger, found that on his test S4, manually short shifting helped his times down the track a little. The Turbo is on the smaller side and it runs out of steam at redline. I found this same approach used to help gain a tenth or two in my old Eagle Talon TSI AWD. So, I will update everyone if that helps me get back down to the low 13's possibly.

My goal is to get this car to be a consistent 13.0 second daily driver per se. If I could break into a 12.8 that would be even better. Ultimately, depending on how the trial runs go with the Burger JB4 unit, that may be next on my shopping list. I also like the AWE carbon fiber air intake that is being finalized now for the S4/SQ5. It is expensive but I feel the car needs some more air flow IMO.
Old 05-12-2018, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 2018-SQ5
According to the manual, that is the factory version of Launch Control for the brand. All the cars in the current Audi lineup use the same method. It works well unless you hold the throttle down more than 5 seconds like you said.

Well, I took my car to the track again this past week and here are my findings. My best run was a 13.42 @ 101.32 mph as compared to my last outing which netted a 13.1 @ 103 mph. I find my best times occur when I am using the Map 3 - 0 setting. I find my SQ5 likes that setting the most. Now, two factors may have also contributed to my slower times this time around. It ranged in temperature from a high of 82 to a low of 66 after the sun went down. So, it was a warm day at the track as compared to the cool 50 degree day when I ran last time. Also, I had my factory Audi 21" wheels on which are much heavier than the winter OZ wheels I used previously. BTW, I ran with a half tank of 93 octane fuel.

I also tried Map 3 + 2, and the car was only a tenth of a second quicker than stock. I also tried Map 1 - 0 and that was about the same result. Partially because the shifting pauses during the WOT power delivery as mentioned previously. I feel Map 3 - 0 delivers the most linear power delivery and supposedly the max power gains are similar in all the different modes. So, it probably really doesn't matter.

I did some research and found out that the SQ5 weighs about 600 more pounds than the S4. Add my body weight to that which is about 270 lbs and I may never break into the 12's on the 21" wheels using only the DTUK Tuner.

My last effort to improve performance will be to manually shift down the track, and short shifting at 6000 rpm versus letting the automatic run to redline. Apparently, Mr. Burger, found that on his test S4, manually short shifting helped his times down the track a little. The Turbo is on the smaller side and it runs out of steam at redline. I found this same approach used to help gain a tenth or two in my old Eagle Talon TSI AWD. So, I will update everyone if that helps me get back down to the low 13's possibly.

My goal is to get this car to be a consistent 13.0 second daily driver per se. If I could break into a 12.8 that would be even better. Ultimately, depending on how the trial runs go with the Burger JB4 unit, that may be next on my shopping list. I also like the AWE carbon fiber air intake that is being finalized now for the S4/SQ5. It is expensive but I feel the car needs some more air flow IMO.
I found the same...best results running program 3 - 0 and that was his baseline tune according to Aaron, I also found that changing programs sometimes put the car into a funk. Hard to describe but something is going on with the ECU. This may happen when changes are made from one program to another with short driving intervals. Once I changed programs and hooked up my trailer. It actually felt like It was weaker than stock and my gas mileage was about 20% less. It doesn’t make sense logically but it happens.
I put it back to stock for a few days and then back to program 3-0 and what a difference. Seat of the pants it’s much quicker now (than stock) but more linear as you say. Easy to drive around town but very quick acceleration at full throttle. My daughter was holding a vase of flowers (mother’s day) yesterday and ended up with a lap full of water. I received some counseling later from my wife.
Old 05-12-2018, 08:26 AM
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Forgot to mention-air density could play a factor in you time differential. At mile high altitude the turbo loses some efficiency. As the air gets denser it will mitigate that loss. So on a cold dry day you might run slower than on a warm stormy day...that’s my understanding of how it works.
Old 05-12-2018, 09:25 AM
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Cold dry air is more dense than warm stormy air...
Old 05-12-2018, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 2018-SQ5
My goal is to get this car to be a consistent 13.0 second daily driver per se. If I could break into a 12.8 that would be even better. Ultimately, depending on how the trial runs go with the Burger JB4 unit, that may be next on my shopping list. I also like the AWE carbon fiber air intake that is being finalized now for the S4/SQ5. It is expensive but I feel the car needs some more air flow IMO.
I'm eager to see what the JB4 does. I'm anticipating "more refined" power delivery.

I wouldn't waste my money on a new intake though. You're running a turbo so it will always push for a torque target and up the boost pressure as necessary. You will only gain noise from the intake, but nothing in the line of power.
Old 05-12-2018, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by patmurphey
Cold dry air is more dense than warm stormy air...
Right, thanks for the correction.
Old 05-29-2018, 05:49 AM
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I've had some time to play with the mapping on the DTUK over the past couple of weeks. Here is my butt dyno analysis of the undocumented maps/settings:

MAPs: change when the DTUK transitions from stock boost levels to their higher modified level.
Settings -3 -> 0 -> +3: Changes the modified boost level. -3 is the lowest setting (less boost), +3 is the highest (more boost). Running at +3 gives you maximum boost/power, but also brings up artifacts of stumbles on shift points, as well as getting off hard throttle.

Map 1: Engages at ~2000RPM
Map 2: Engages at ~2500RPM
Map 3: Engages at ~3000RPM

My biggest issue with the DTUK is lack of refinement on the mapping. The engagement point is a step jump of power, regardless of throttle opening. Every other piggyback is a lot less aggressive in low end engagement if there is low MAP pressure in the manifold, and this is what I observe in real time driving:

- Entering a cloverleaf on Map 1, revs are ~1800 RPM in sport mode. Start to round the cloverleaf, and you step on the throttle to accelerate through the apex, and then out of nowhere is this step jump of power at the worst possible time effecting vehicle control.
- Driving in Map : Feels refined since you are not in the heavy boost area. As you approach an uncontrolled intersection, you step on it a bit to get out of the way. Everything is great until you are 3/4 way through, then the revs hit 3000RPM and it pulls like a wild banshee, again adding vehicle control issues.

I'm eagerly waiting for the Burger unit, and will be swapping mine when theirs is market ready....
Old 05-29-2018, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Wires
I've had some time to play with the mapping on the DTUK over the past couple of weeks. Here is my butt dyno analysis of the undocumented maps/settings:

MAPs: change when the DTUK transitions from stock boost levels to their higher modified level.
Settings -3 -> 0 -> +3: Changes the modified boost level. -3 is the lowest setting (less boost), +3 is the highest (more boost). Running at +3 gives you maximum boost/power, but also brings up artifacts of stumbles on shift points, as well as getting off hard throttle.

Map 1: Engages at ~2000RPM
Map 2: Engages at ~2500RPM
Map 3: Engages at ~3000RPM

My biggest issue with the DTUK is lack of refinement on the mapping. The engagement point is a step jump of power, regardless of throttle opening. Every other piggyback is a lot less aggressive in low end engagement if there is low MAP pressure in the manifold, and this is what I observe in real time driving:

- Entering a cloverleaf on Map 1, revs are ~1800 RPM in sport mode. Start to round the cloverleaf, and you step on the throttle to accelerate through the apex, and then out of nowhere is this step jump of power at the worst possible time effecting vehicle control.
- Driving in Map : Feels refined since you are not in the heavy boost area. As you approach an uncontrolled intersection, you step on it a bit to get out of the way. Everything is great until you are 3/4 way through, then the revs hit 3000RPM and it pulls like a wild banshee, again adding vehicle control issues.

I'm eagerly waiting for the Burger unit, and will be swapping mine when theirs is market ready....
I agree with most of what you say until you get to tune 3. Yours must be different! You should have taken Aaron up on his offer for a free change to his tune. Tune 3+0 is well behaved without the surge I hated in tune 1. The boost comes on earlier in 3 and is incremental. It worked fine without the Pedal Box. I run the Pedal Box in City mode and so far have no complaints. The PB has 4 modes and allows for less lag.
The DT does deliver some extra snap in town and a noticeable improvement passing. In casual driving fuel economy is better but it does use more fuel pushing it harder.
Any Piggy back is probably going to have anomalies since there is only so much you can do “tricking” the system.



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