spindlewood

Ok - so I got the Fuel Pressure Sensor to click and lock. Thanks again to Wires for blazing the trail. The JB4 half of the connector has 2 triangle protrusions which prevent it from sliding all the way into the Audi half. I took a file to the triangles and the connectors clicked in place. I still couldn't press the red lock to lock it in place. This is when I finally figured out how the lock works. The red lock has two parts - the red tab part you press on and a connected upper square piece which has an opening for the black tab. The black tab prevents the lock from being pushed down until the black tab is pushed OUT far enough (I kept thinking the black tab needed to be pushed in). It is pushed out by inserting the connector. Now that the connector was fully in, the black tab should be pushed out far enough for the red locking piece to slide BEHIND the black tab (this prevents the black tab accidentally being pushed and freeing the connector). In my case it still needed a little help. The back of the black tab was accessible and with the help of a small screwdriver it created the necessary room.

To remove the connector you unlock by flicking up the red tab, then pressing the black tab in, and the connector is released and free to pull out.

Here are some before and after pics.

Wires

Thanks for posting this Spindlewood, that section I missed on the writeup.

spindlewood

Can someone explain how to settle on a map choice and whether it needs to change based on temperature or other factors? I've read Map 3 is good for 93 octane. If temps drop, should I be checking the logs for something? I've read descriptions for the various logged values but these don't mean anything practical to me without an understanding of ideal ranges. It'd be great to know what red flags I should be looking for

In terms of power gained, is it linear going from 4 psi (map 3) to 3 psi (map 2) so map 3 has 25% more peak power than map 2?
99% of my driving will be "normal" non-spirited. If dropping down to a lower psi map sacrifices 25% power for something gained (reliability, mpg, or something else), it would be great to get a sense of the trade- offs.

If someone has a link which can help me better understand all this, I'd appreciate it. I'm sure these are all noob questions - but this is my first time with any sort of tune.

Thanks in advance.

George@BMS

Hi,
The power gains are pretty much linear at those boost add levels which his still considered relatively conservative.
By the log feedback you will be able to run map 3 year round. If you live in a area where it gets extremely hot you might want to evaluate using map 2 vs map 3. Don't let the logs overwhelm you. Whenever you curious feel free to email them over to me at George@burgertuning.com .

userbbc

I remember reading about switching maps via the volume control buttons on the f30. Is there something similar for the audi install?

George@BMS

The communication on the Audi goes through a few gateways and are unable to add this feature unfortunately.

userbbc

routing through the firewall definitely hasn't been fun - grommets are small and difficult to reach.
Only convenient part is that the lower dash trim is relatively easy to drop. Also thanks to Wires for noting how to route the sensor cables next to the brake booster lines (I originally went through the plastic plug a little lower down the engine bay, but that left a hole much too large for the cables)

For anyone looking for alternative mounting, my install
1. mounted the jb4 a little differently (on to the metal brace using velcro ties downs instead of vertically next to the brake booster )
2. routed the BMS usb data cable connection into the interior of the car by: BMS data cable -> usb-c OTG adapter -> usb-c extension cable going through the second available grommet and into the interior of the car (you can see it towards the right of the photos wrapped in silicon tape)

6 velcro ties to wrap around the jb4 - 4 ties connect diagonally as an X and 2 connect to wrap around horizontally



everything velcro mounted - data cable 2 otg 2 extension cable connection towards the right, wrapped in silicon xtreme tape and routed through the second available firewall grommet

userbbc

also, have yet to update the firmware upon installing the unit, but just received my first fault after three days of driving
the driveline malfunction warning in dash which disappears after restart and I assume logs the 8a4d error.

will try to update the firmware tomorrow to see if it shows up again.

spindlewood

I like the velcro straps and will copy cat your setup. Thanks for the idea. I am not sure of the second grommet location and can't see it on your pics. Where is it in relation to the one Wires photographed? Not that I'm going to change mine now that it's installed

Curious why you used a USB-C extension cable. Was the BMS cable not long enough for you?

I also got my first drive system error after 3 days. Hopefully the new chip they're testing solves it.

userbbc

labelled for reference. I used a usb-c extension cable as I couldn't fit the regular flat usb-a head through the grommet (usb-c head is a little smaller.) Might give it another go if someone confirms it can fit.
Forgot to mention i also wrapped the jb4 module in some of the silicon xtreme tape for cushioning and grip when attached to the brace - do like this stuff, it doesn't stick to anything but itself...so you just stretch, wrap, and overlap and it stays put. Also spec'd to withstand up to 500 degrees F, higher than any electrical tape I have.
As well, install looks even nicer with the jb4 module under the brace since there's more room below. But figured it would be harder to remove and reinstall when/if necessary. Used so many velcro ties for the same reason, didn't want to have to loop things under the module on reinstall when removed.