2011 Q7 trailer hitch install
08-28-2012, 07:44 AM
#11
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VAG-COM coding for the trailer installation
As Promised, here are my settings based on my 2011 Q7 features. Your changes may vary based on additional features you may have like Lane Assist and Level Lontrol.
My specific changes are in Bold underline.
Trailer Hitch Retrofitting (4L)
From Ross-Tech Wiki Configuration
The following Activations are necessary to ensure that the newly fitted parts are properly recognized and are ready to use.
1-Update the Installation List in the Gateway (J533 / #19). Register the newly added 69 - Trailer Control Module via the Installation List Function. (I just checked the “Trailer” check box)
2-Update the Trailer Control Module (J345 / #69) Coding.(I set mine to “2”)-Not all Retrofitting Kits contain Diagnostic capable Trailer Control Modules, some Aftermarket Modules may even be pre-coded. This Step can be ignored for Modules which are not Diagnostic capable. Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS. If an Aftermarket Module is installed, check the Retrofitting Kit for further Instructions.
3-Update the Engine Control Module (J623 / #01) Coding. (not applicable to my Q7)
Make sure that the Engine is NOT running, otherwise the new Coding will be rejected. Models equipped with Start/Stop System do have a Shutoff Switch/Button which will deactivate the Start/Stop Function.
For Engines with a 2nd Engine Control Module (J624 / #11) this needs to be coded as well.
As a Rule of Thumb, If the Engine uses conventional Short Coding (Coding is 7-digits like 0011312) the Long Codding Assistant does NOT apply. Modules using Short Coding typically do NOT support or require Trailer Configuration Coding. If the Engine Control Module uses a Long Coding the Activation is done in (Long) Coding itself through via Coding Assist. Please also note that there are different Coding Variants for Long Coding.
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS.
4-Update the Brake Electronics (J104 / #03) Configuration. (Did not change anything here)
To enable the Trailer Stabilization Subtract 0000016 from the existing Coding (e.g. 0033937 - 0000016 = 0033921).
Additional Information may be shown once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
5-Update the Level Control (J197 / #34) Coding, if installed. (Not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
6-Update the Parking Aid (J446 / #76) Coding, if installed. ( initial setting was 0221266 and changed it to 0231266)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
7-Update the Rear View Camera (J772 / #6C) Coding, if installed. (initial setting was 1021101 and changed it to 1031101)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
8-Update the Lane Change Assist (J769 / #3C) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
9-Update the Distance Regulation (J428 / #13) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
My specific changes are in Bold underline.
Trailer Hitch Retrofitting (4L)
From Ross-Tech Wiki Configuration
The following Activations are necessary to ensure that the newly fitted parts are properly recognized and are ready to use.
1-Update the Installation List in the Gateway (J533 / #19). Register the newly added 69 - Trailer Control Module via the Installation List Function. (I just checked the “Trailer” check box)
2-Update the Trailer Control Module (J345 / #69) Coding.(I set mine to “2”)-Not all Retrofitting Kits contain Diagnostic capable Trailer Control Modules, some Aftermarket Modules may even be pre-coded. This Step can be ignored for Modules which are not Diagnostic capable. Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS. If an Aftermarket Module is installed, check the Retrofitting Kit for further Instructions.
3-Update the Engine Control Module (J623 / #01) Coding. (not applicable to my Q7)
Make sure that the Engine is NOT running, otherwise the new Coding will be rejected. Models equipped with Start/Stop System do have a Shutoff Switch/Button which will deactivate the Start/Stop Function.
For Engines with a 2nd Engine Control Module (J624 / #11) this needs to be coded as well.
As a Rule of Thumb, If the Engine uses conventional Short Coding (Coding is 7-digits like 0011312) the Long Codding Assistant does NOT apply. Modules using Short Coding typically do NOT support or require Trailer Configuration Coding. If the Engine Control Module uses a Long Coding the Activation is done in (Long) Coding itself through via Coding Assist. Please also note that there are different Coding Variants for Long Coding.
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be used by the Long Coding Assistant once you access the Function using VCDS.
4-Update the Brake Electronics (J104 / #03) Configuration. (Did not change anything here)
To enable the Trailer Stabilization Subtract 0000016 from the existing Coding (e.g. 0033937 - 0000016 = 0033921).
Additional Information may be shown once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
5-Update the Level Control (J197 / #34) Coding, if installed. (Not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
6-Update the Parking Aid (J446 / #76) Coding, if installed. ( initial setting was 0221266 and changed it to 0231266)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be shown once you access the Function using VCDS.
7-Update the Rear View Camera (J772 / #6C) Coding, if installed. (initial setting was 1021101 and changed it to 1031101)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
8-Update the Lane Change Assist (J769 / #3C) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
9-Update the Distance Regulation (J428 / #13) Coding, if installed. (not applicable to my Q7)
Due to different Control Modules and Equipment in the Car the actual Coding Table is not shown here but will automatically be displayed once you access the Coding Function using VCDS.
08-28-2012, 07:54 AM
#12
thanks for posting. Am interested in the DIY of the install on everything except the Vag Com or having the stealer do it.
Can only invision spending the time and money on the hitch and have them screw up the codes or never get my LED trailer working..
Can only invision spending the time and money on the hitch and have them screw up the codes or never get my LED trailer working..
08-28-2012, 12:38 PM
#13
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Not sure if you were just commenting or asking for the DIY install but incase you missed it is included in this thread.
08-28-2012, 12:48 PM
#14
No just a comment, Have no problem following the DIY that you did but for some reason I have bad track histories around Vag Com and dealer support in getting things coded properly.
06-25-2013, 03:37 PM
#15
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Sorry to revive and old thread. This is a nice DIY by the way. My co-workers panel that covers the lower rear spoiler was stolen and I can't for the life of me find a replacement online, not even the part #. I've searched and have found nothing. If someone could post a link or part # I would trestle appreciate it. He has a 2011 6cyl non s-line. I think its the same part mentioned here
" YOU ARE DONE! Well almost. Remember that panel that we took off the bumper where the hitch comes through. If you turn it over you will see a somewhat circular double line. It occurred to me that this is where you need to cut this panel so that it fits around the hitch. I drilled a starter hole to the inside of the inner line and then took a jigsaw and cut to the inner line, this way I had room for error and later trimming/smoothing. I could not believe how perfect it fit after cutting. Slip the panel up and over the top of the hitch and then secure the sides and then the twist conns."
" YOU ARE DONE! Well almost. Remember that panel that we took off the bumper where the hitch comes through. If you turn it over you will see a somewhat circular double line. It occurred to me that this is where you need to cut this panel so that it fits around the hitch. I drilled a starter hole to the inside of the inner line and then took a jigsaw and cut to the inner line, this way I had room for error and later trimming/smoothing. I could not believe how perfect it fit after cutting. Slip the panel up and over the top of the hitch and then secure the sides and then the twist conns."
08-05-2013, 02:19 PM
#17
Audiworld Junior Member
This thread is a great resource. Thanks to the OP for taking the time to write this up and include pictures. I installed my new hitch the other night and referenced this thread a few times just to be sure I was on the right track. I haven't dealt with the VAGCOM changes yet, but all the pieces and parts are in place and ready for action.
I'll add a few gotchas or tips from my perspective to help the next person.
- Go ahead and pick up a telescoping magnet for the 4 nuts that you access through the holes in the cargo area. You can get one for around $4 at Harbor Freight. It makes it so much easier to remove and reinstall the nuts from the bolt threads. Lucky for us Audi put a long "stem" on the ends of the threads to help guide the nut onto the bolt.
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...net-37187.html
- I used jack stands to set the hitch in place and line up the bolts (see picture). Very helpful if you are doing the project alone.
- For running the trailer wires up into the cargo area from the hitch, there are 2 grommets to choose from under the right rear quarter panel. You want the one closest to the exhaust tip, and with the foam padding behind the grommet in the hole. Just move the padding out of the way and push the harness around it until you can reach it from above. It becomes obvious which grommet is the "right" one after you fish the wires up, but since I chose wrong the first time I thought I'd mention it.
- I didn't remove the metal transition plate, but doing so will make it much easier to remove and reinstall the interior panel to gain access to the control unit and wiring. The lower edge of the panel tucks underneath the metal plate, and there's also a metal clip right above it. Maneuvering the panel to tuck it back under the metal plate proved challenging....
- And I have no idea what the protective film that comes with the kit is for.....
Took me 2-3 hours to do everything but the reprogramming, and I didn't break anything. Again - big thanks to pcoliver for putting this together.
I'll add a few gotchas or tips from my perspective to help the next person.
- Go ahead and pick up a telescoping magnet for the 4 nuts that you access through the holes in the cargo area. You can get one for around $4 at Harbor Freight. It makes it so much easier to remove and reinstall the nuts from the bolt threads. Lucky for us Audi put a long "stem" on the ends of the threads to help guide the nut onto the bolt.
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...net-37187.html
- I used jack stands to set the hitch in place and line up the bolts (see picture). Very helpful if you are doing the project alone.
- For running the trailer wires up into the cargo area from the hitch, there are 2 grommets to choose from under the right rear quarter panel. You want the one closest to the exhaust tip, and with the foam padding behind the grommet in the hole. Just move the padding out of the way and push the harness around it until you can reach it from above. It becomes obvious which grommet is the "right" one after you fish the wires up, but since I chose wrong the first time I thought I'd mention it.
- I didn't remove the metal transition plate, but doing so will make it much easier to remove and reinstall the interior panel to gain access to the control unit and wiring. The lower edge of the panel tucks underneath the metal plate, and there's also a metal clip right above it. Maneuvering the panel to tuck it back under the metal plate proved challenging....
- And I have no idea what the protective film that comes with the kit is for.....
Took me 2-3 hours to do everything but the reprogramming, and I didn't break anything. Again - big thanks to pcoliver for putting this together.
08-05-2013, 02:22 PM
#18
Audiworld Junior Member
Sorry to revive and old thread. This is a nice DIY by the way. My co-workers panel that covers the lower rear spoiler was stolen and I can't for the life of me find a replacement online, not even the part #. I've searched and have found nothing. If someone could post a link or part # I would trestle appreciate it. He has a 2011 6cyl non s-line. I think its the same part mentioned here
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...69&postcount=8
10-31-2013, 06:19 AM
#19
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Took me 2-3 hours to do everything but the reprogramming, and I didn't break anything. Again - big thanks to pcoliver for putting this together.[/QUOTE]
Glad to hear it helped you and appreciate the feedback!
Glad to hear it helped you and appreciate the feedback!
11-02-2013, 04:32 AM
#20
AudiWorld Super User
That is the Westfalia bar with their wiring kit.
I bought a TowTrust bar -
http://www.tow-trust.co.uk/towbar/se...model/12/part/
and the WestFalia wiring kit.
Easy install but the WestFalia instructions on re-coding are not very clear so I still have bleeping reversing sensors but I want to retain the camera working - so I have not yet changed anything except the coding to tell the car it has the bar fitted so at least I get the indicator flash on the dash.
I bought a TowTrust bar -
http://www.tow-trust.co.uk/towbar/se...model/12/part/
and the WestFalia wiring kit.
Easy install but the WestFalia instructions on re-coding are not very clear so I still have bleeping reversing sensors but I want to retain the camera working - so I have not yet changed anything except the coding to tell the car it has the bar fitted so at least I get the indicator flash on the dash.