2015 Q7 TDI Remote Start?
03-16-2019, 07:06 AM
#22
AudiWorld Member
4L parts are generally 95% of the time for audi q7’s 2006-2015. 7L parts are from VW touareg. 4E & 4F parts are from various sedans and 4M parts are from Q7’s 2016-present etc. hope this may help when looking for parts etc next time but all in all alot of these parts got spread around the VW/ audi group and are essentially all the same part.
Last edited by Up-it; 03-16-2019 at 07:08 AM.
03-24-2019, 06:00 AM
#23
AudiWorld Junior Member
q CO
oof, if your idling it for 20mins to get heat your putting a ton of wear and tear on the engine.. ok you can idle it long enough it will warm up, but thats because of the EGR and other emissions crap.. Its terrible on your engine to do this, your fouling out your engine oil and valve train and overall just doing a bunch of abuse by idling your engine for 15mins+ well outside of nominal operating temp.. also its terrible for the environment and totally illegal in most of europe.
Just because you can dont mean you should, you bought a Diesel and not a gasser, they generate so very little heat that if it wasent breathing its own exhaust it'd never reach operating temp just idling... pucker up butter cup and get your self a nice coat, gonna be cold in the mornings.. Look at the frost heater, plug it into a timer to come on a few hours before you leave in the morning and then you can start it up, turn the heat on and drive away in warmth.
but hey, its your car.. if you wanna take a dump in the engine then go for it.. but I doubt you'll find anyone here whom put a remote start on one and can help you out.
Just because you can dont mean you should, you bought a Diesel and not a gasser, they generate so very little heat that if it wasent breathing its own exhaust it'd never reach operating temp just idling... pucker up butter cup and get your self a nice coat, gonna be cold in the mornings.. Look at the frost heater, plug it into a timer to come on a few hours before you leave in the morning and then you can start it up, turn the heat on and drive away in warmth.
but hey, its your car.. if you wanna take a dump in the engine then go for it.. but I doubt you'll find anyone here whom put a remote start on one and can help you out.
I have used both Zerostart (on 4 cyl TDIs) and ESPAR (Eberspacher on trucks) and both are an excellent solution to cold starts. Having moved down to the "bannana belt" (Saskatoon) from a LOT further North, I take the whole cold starting thing very seriously.
I bought my wife an ultra low mile '14 since we needed more space and tow ability than what was in the driveway, and it was our last chance to get a 3.0 diesel. It came from BC, so no engine preheat installed. It got written off, and I was lucky enough to find what I believe may be the last NEW Q7 TDI in Canada in Edmonton, and in spite of a line item on the invoice for "winter kit" or some such, there is no heat on the engine nor the battery. You keep mentioning "Frost" heater, but as far as I know Jack has never built a 3.0 kit at all. I really need to do something with her Q7 this summer, as cold starting is not something I wish to subject her car to for any length of time - for all of the reasons you have mentioned (plus a few more).
#1: I can not find a Bentley for this car, so what are my factory manual options? Until I understand the cooling system, I am not comfortable with chopping into a heater hose to circulate water when parked.
#2: has anyone installed an aftermarket engine heater in their 3.0? Where did they connect (would apply to both ESPAR and Zerostart)? This should appear in factory service literature for the Euro Aux Heater option.
#3: what has been done to minimize EGR deposits in 3.0? I intend to stay under the factory warranty as new car, but after witnessing so much soot in MkIVs, want to do SOMETHING to keep the 3.0 clean and assembled (for next several years EGR delete not an option).
03-24-2019, 08:55 AM
#24
AudiWorld Super User
To knock the point home, here's a 32k mile 2014 TDI (off Reddit) that needed a New DPF and EGR already because the first owner ran the EGR at a high duty cycle.. second owner bought it at 22k miles and damage was already done, they put 10k miles of all highway with his 100m commute so nothing he did shoulda resulted in this.. considering a 3 year old diesel only had 22k miles, it seems to had been driven on very short grocery trips and never ran long enough to reach operating temps.
1. Bentley stopped making manuals, you MIGHT find one for a very early Q7.. its all online now, I have a friend who works at a VW dealer and he sends me screen caps of diagrams off their system.. kinda sucks
2. Ive got a ZeroStart in the garage but have not installed it, yeah Frost Heater never made a OTB kit for our vehicles but the heaters are common enough.
Zerostart or Espar would be best tapped into the coolant lines around the oil cooler (or in this case oil-heater).. should be pretty easy to locate once you got it into service mode.. Convection is done naturally so you want to heatup coolant near the bottom of the engine so convection carries the heat up and draws in fresh cool coolant down low.
3. Get it up to operating temp ASAP and the EGR will deactivate, If your commute involves getting on the highway then goose it on the onramp and take it to redline so the turbo dumps as much waste heat as you can back into the engine (via oil)
1. Bentley stopped making manuals, you MIGHT find one for a very early Q7.. its all online now, I have a friend who works at a VW dealer and he sends me screen caps of diagrams off their system.. kinda sucks
2. Ive got a ZeroStart in the garage but have not installed it, yeah Frost Heater never made a OTB kit for our vehicles but the heaters are common enough.
Zerostart or Espar would be best tapped into the coolant lines around the oil cooler (or in this case oil-heater).. should be pretty easy to locate once you got it into service mode.. Convection is done naturally so you want to heatup coolant near the bottom of the engine so convection carries the heat up and draws in fresh cool coolant down low.
3. Get it up to operating temp ASAP and the EGR will deactivate, If your commute involves getting on the highway then goose it on the onramp and take it to redline so the turbo dumps as much waste heat as you can back into the engine (via oil)
Last edited by dreadlocks; 03-24-2019 at 09:00 AM.
03-29-2019, 04:17 PM
#25
AudiWorld Junior Member
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Tired of having to go outside to a freezing car and start the engine walk walk back inside to wait for it to warm up the interior and defrost the windows and get the seat warmers up to temp before I get in and drive, yes it does heat up when its idling as I have done it too many times before but I need a remote starter and audiovox that I had on my 2012 A3 TDI doesn't have a software update that will work with the 2015 Q7 TDI because of the separate start and stop buttons on the 2015 Q7 TDI
09-18-2020, 09:28 AM
#26
To knock the point home, here's a 32k mile 2014 TDI (off Reddit) that needed a New DPF and EGR already because the first owner ran the EGR at a high duty cycle.. second owner bought it at 22k miles and damage was already done, they put 10k miles of all highway with his 100m commute so nothing he did shoulda resulted in this.. considering a 3 year old diesel only had 22k miles, it seems to had been driven on very short grocery trips and never ran long enough to reach operating temps.
1. Bentley stopped making manuals, you MIGHT find one for a very early Q7.. its all online now, I have a friend who works at a VW dealer and he sends me screen caps of diagrams off their system.. kinda sucks
2. Ive got a ZeroStart in the garage but have not installed it, yeah Frost Heater never made a OTB kit for our vehicles but the heaters are common enough.
Zerostart or Espar would be best tapped into the coolant lines around the oil cooler (or in this case oil-heater).. should be pretty easy to locate once you got it into service mode.. Convection is done naturally so you want to heatup coolant near the bottom of the engine so convection carries the heat up and draws in fresh cool coolant down low.
3. Get it up to operating temp ASAP and the EGR will deactivate, If your commute involves getting on the highway then goose it on the onramp and take it to redline so the turbo dumps as much waste heat as you can back into the engine (via oil)
1. Bentley stopped making manuals, you MIGHT find one for a very early Q7.. its all online now, I have a friend who works at a VW dealer and he sends me screen caps of diagrams off their system.. kinda sucks
2. Ive got a ZeroStart in the garage but have not installed it, yeah Frost Heater never made a OTB kit for our vehicles but the heaters are common enough.
Zerostart or Espar would be best tapped into the coolant lines around the oil cooler (or in this case oil-heater).. should be pretty easy to locate once you got it into service mode.. Convection is done naturally so you want to heatup coolant near the bottom of the engine so convection carries the heat up and draws in fresh cool coolant down low.
3. Get it up to operating temp ASAP and the EGR will deactivate, If your commute involves getting on the highway then goose it on the onramp and take it to redline so the turbo dumps as much waste heat as you can back into the engine (via oil)
09-18-2020, 09:39 AM
#27
AudiWorld Super User
it'll run wide open in any high NOX conditions, Cold Start and sitting right at peak torque mostly for diesel.. the fouling out the intake issue is largely attributed to cold starts though because the diesels output a ton of soot in the same conditions.. once engine warms up it gets significantly less sooty... now that I'm straight piped, I can pull out of the neighborhood on a cold morning and the moment I goose the throttle to get up to speed I roal coal pretty heavy, if my EGR was operating it'd of just taken a big portion of that back through the intake.. now its just my exhaust tips that have to deal with it.. when the vehicle is at operating temp it outputs no visible smoke unless full WOT, and then its very minimal and nothing like the big black cloud it farted out when it was cold.
All that smoke I now see is there on your stock vehicles, its just getting scrubbed out by the DPF before it leaves the tailpipe... The EGR Duty cycle is used to assist the engine in warming up quicker, and the fix dramatically increased EGR duty cycle, this is very evident in the fact that post-fix vehicles warm up significantly quicker than pre-fix vehicles ever did.. I believe before the cheating VAG was able to minimize the EGR on cold starts BECAUSE of the damage they did to the engine, that was a loophole every manufacturer uses, but since they had to make these compliant by the courts they had to disregard that to get em re-certified.. NOX was the issue so they hadda pull every trick out of the bag to get NOX down, including running the EGR wide open on a cold engine despite the potential for carbon fouling out the intake.
All that smoke I now see is there on your stock vehicles, its just getting scrubbed out by the DPF before it leaves the tailpipe... The EGR Duty cycle is used to assist the engine in warming up quicker, and the fix dramatically increased EGR duty cycle, this is very evident in the fact that post-fix vehicles warm up significantly quicker than pre-fix vehicles ever did.. I believe before the cheating VAG was able to minimize the EGR on cold starts BECAUSE of the damage they did to the engine, that was a loophole every manufacturer uses, but since they had to make these compliant by the courts they had to disregard that to get em re-certified.. NOX was the issue so they hadda pull every trick out of the bag to get NOX down, including running the EGR wide open on a cold engine despite the potential for carbon fouling out the intake.
Last edited by dreadlocks; 09-18-2020 at 09:48 AM.
09-18-2020, 10:04 AM
#28
it'll run wide open in any high NOX conditions, Cold Start and sitting right at peak torque mostly for diesel.. the fouling out the intake issue is largely attributed to cold starts though because the diesels output a ton of soot in the same conditions.. once engine warms up it gets significantly less sooty... now that I'm straight piped, I can pull out of the neighborhood on a cold morning and the moment I goose the throttle to get up to speed I roal coal pretty heavy, if my EGR was operating it'd of just taken a big portion of that back through the intake.. now its just my exhaust tips that have to deal with it.. when the vehicle is at operating temp it outputs no visible smoke unless full WOT, and then its very minimal and nothing like the big black cloud it farted out when it was cold.
All that smoke I now see is there on your stock vehicles, its just getting scrubbed out by the DPF before it leaves the tailpipe... The EGR Duty cycle is used to assist the engine in warming up quicker, and the fix dramatically increased EGR duty cycle, this is very evident in the fact that post-fix vehicles warm up significantly quicker than pre-fix vehicles ever did.. I believe before the cheating VAG was able to minimize the EGR on cold starts BECAUSE of the damage they did to the engine, that was a loophole every manufacturer uses, but since they had to make these compliant by the courts they had to disregard that to get em re-certified.. NOX was the issue so they hadda pull every trick out of the bag to get NOX down, including running the EGR wide open on a cold engine despite the potential for carbon fouling out the intake.
All that smoke I now see is there on your stock vehicles, its just getting scrubbed out by the DPF before it leaves the tailpipe... The EGR Duty cycle is used to assist the engine in warming up quicker, and the fix dramatically increased EGR duty cycle, this is very evident in the fact that post-fix vehicles warm up significantly quicker than pre-fix vehicles ever did.. I believe before the cheating VAG was able to minimize the EGR on cold starts BECAUSE of the damage they did to the engine, that was a loophole every manufacturer uses, but since they had to make these compliant by the courts they had to disregard that to get em re-certified.. NOX was the issue so they hadda pull every trick out of the bag to get NOX down, including running the EGR wide open on a cold engine despite the potential for carbon fouling out the intake.
09-18-2020, 10:07 AM
#29
AudiWorld Super User
VCDS will let you monitor the EGR valve state through the measuring blocks.
Yeah the SCR wont get it up to operating temps any faster though, and it needs the NOX sensors warmed up to operating temp before it leaves its closed-loop and starts feeding DEF... once operating temps been achieved, I would think the EGR shuts down in most high soot situations (like WOT) and the SCR cranks up..
Yeah the SCR wont get it up to operating temps any faster though, and it needs the NOX sensors warmed up to operating temp before it leaves its closed-loop and starts feeding DEF... once operating temps been achieved, I would think the EGR shuts down in most high soot situations (like WOT) and the SCR cranks up..
Last edited by dreadlocks; 09-18-2020 at 10:13 AM.
09-18-2020, 10:13 AM
#30
VCDS will let you monitor the EGR valve state through the measuring blocks.
Yeah the SCR wont get it up to operating temps any faster though, and it needs the NOX sensors warmed up to operating temp before it leaves its closed-loop and starts feeding DEF... once operating temps been achieved, I would think the EGR shuts down in most high soot situations (like WOT) and the SCR cranks up.
Yeah the SCR wont get it up to operating temps any faster though, and it needs the NOX sensors warmed up to operating temp before it leaves its closed-loop and starts feeding DEF... once operating temps been achieved, I would think the EGR shuts down in most high soot situations (like WOT) and the SCR cranks up.