battery low
02-11-2016, 03:57 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Weak batteries can create all sorts of "surprises".
02-11-2016, 12:30 PM
#5
AudiWorld Member
Remove the plastic track covers, remove the 4 bolts holdong the seat down, move the seat to the back and lift the frame up. unlatch the battery cover. Battery is inside. Once you change the battery, the vehicle needs to go to the dealer so they can zero time the battery to the vehicle after clearing all the faults.
02-11-2016, 01:54 PM
#6
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The battery goes into battery management mode. It shuts down non essensial things that use power, such as tailgate, mirrors etc. I replaced my battery in November and everything is back to "normal" now. I had similar battery electronic issues before.
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02-12-2016, 07:27 AM
#8
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I replaced my battery two weeks ago...
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries do need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt - grrrrr.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55lb battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after two weeks see no issues.
So -all in all I came in at way under half the cost of the dealer.
I changed the battery myself in about 45 minutes - plus 30 minutes of reading various on-line DIY posts and videos. The most helpful post is over at audiforums.com. Here are some highlights:
1) CT Audi dealer wanted to charge me $500 ($260 battery/misc parts, 1.5 hours labor @ $135/hour, plus tax)
2) I bought a Duralast Platinum (AGM) H8 (same as Group 49 size) for $175 from Autozone. AGM batteries do need to vent. Most batteries come with two vent holes on each end of the battery. You need to plug the one on the positive side of the battery using the plastic plug that is attached to the the '+' terminal shipping cap. You need to insert the existing vent tube into the vent hole on the '-' side.
3) I needed to order a 10mm XZN/M10 triple square driver from Amazon to remove the two bolts holding down the front of the driver seat. No local auto parts stores stock this bit... Apparently VW/Audi/Porsche are the only ones who use this bolt - grrrrr.
4) I hooked up a portable battery jump starter to the posts under the hood to maintain power to the car during the swap.
5) You do NOT need to remove the bolts from the rear of the driver seat. There are a few videos and posts that instruct you to do so. You only need to remove the rear plastics rail covers. The back of the seat rail is hinged so once you remove the two bolts in front, the entire seat will tilt back far enough on the hinges for you to access the battery compartment. With that said. the hardest part of the entire operation is lifting the 55lb battery out of the compartment at an angle to clear the tilted seat. I managed to do it by myself - but it was not easy. If you were to remove the entire seat, removing the battery would be easier but then you'd need to disconnect some wire harnesses that connect the car to the seat. Choose your poison.
6) Removing the battery air filter cover is a bit tricky. The front clips are very accessible and can easily be disconnected. The rear clips are wedged in pretty tight - so take visual note of the design of the front clips and then you can figure out how to get your finger behind the battery compartment to unclip the rears without a sight line to the clips.
7) Lastly, there is some debate over whether your car need to be reprogrammed to acknowledge the new battery. There are many who have changed their batteries without re-coding and have not reported problems. But others say that the unadjusted charge rate will potentially damage a new battery over time. The dealer told me that they estimate .5 hour labor charge of $67.50 plus tax. I did not re-program mine and after two weeks see no issues.
So -all in all I came in at way under half the cost of the dealer.
Last edited by Clues; 02-12-2016 at 07:33 AM.
02-18-2018, 02:04 PM
#9
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I need to replace the battery on my Q7 and was thinking of using the one from Autozone. Just wondering if you saw the BEM info on the battery that is needed to reprogram with VCDS.
