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its not dual injectors, you'd just have 9 on a v8.. it just an extra one on intake before EGR piping that cleans the valves and hardly powers the vehicle.
EGR delete would require an aftermarket tune or it'd throw a CEL, wont cause any mechanical issues but if you have emissions inspections its something required for full OBD2 readyness so that could be an issue.
PCV wont be puking nearly as much as EGR is on those short drives, PCV shouldent blow by much until oil is hot and engine is ran hard.. doubt it'd prolong anything.. maybe a Methanol Injection system wired to turn off w/thermostat switch would be effective.
Last edited by dreadlocks; 05-14-2019 at 08:51 PM.
its not dual injectors, you'd just have 9 on a v8.. it just an extra one on intake before EGR piping that cleans the valves and hardly powers the vehicle.
EGR delete would require an aftermarket tune or it'd throw a CEL, wont cause any mechanical issues but if you have emissions inspections its something required for full OBD2 readyness so that could be an issue.
PCV wont be puking nearly as much as EGR is on those short drives, PCV shouldent blow by much until oil is hot and engine is ran hard.. doubt it'd prolong anything.. maybe a Methanol Injection system wired to turn off w/thermostat switch would be effective.
Thats an entirely different design than Ford uses now. They actually have dual injectors on each cylinder, high flow and low flow that map in sync with the ECU. Pretty smart actually to individually wash down each cylinder wall.
How would a single 9th injector be effective on a V8? There is an upper intake feeding both sides and dual lower intakes. Cylinder 1-4 on the left and 5-8 on the right. I might understand 10 injectors being that there is an extra on each side of the engine to spray down the intake tubes, but 9? I’ll have to do some research because I don’t understand how that would even work.
I think I’ll leave the EGR alone. I’ll ask the mechanic, I’m sure he’s seen many people do it, but I really don’t want to start editing things in the ECU. I understand the concept but I don’t have the tools at home to do that and I’d rather not take the risk without detailed knowledge of the ECU and a VCDS type set up.
Methanol injection is an interesting idea. I know Ethanol injection would be a horrible idea. Big key difference between the M and the E!
I’d be really nervous to start toying around too much with adding / modifying components. Again without being able to edit the ECU it’s going to cause problems.
Here in Enumclaw, WA we are 100% emissions exempt so I could cut the cats off and run straight pipe if I wanted to and it wouldn’t harm me one bit.
I did think about looking under it and seeing if it has stock resonators that can be cut out. The sound of the stock 4.2 is angry already but deepen that growl a bit more and I’d never leave the drivers seat !
The 4.2 fsi doesn’t have EGR, just uses crankcase ventilation that passes through the large PCV that separates the oil from the gas and is “”meant to” only redirect the gases into the intake throttle valve.
problem is it can’t catch/seperate all the oil vapour and thats how we get stuck with carboned valve stems. I have put a catch can setup on my 4.2 with good results as I had already replace the PCV and done the carbon clean twice myself with good results afterwards, but wanted to prevent it occurring again so added the catch can.
There are setups available to buy in the States that suit the 2.0T engines etc but you will get the idea on how it can be done.
The 4.2 only has 2x air valves fitted to the front of the exhaust manifold each side that pumps air into the exhaust via an electric pump on cold start up to reduce overfuelling whilst the O2 sensors and Cats warm up up. After that the air valves shut off.
there is no electronics monitoring the PCV group so nothing to worry about with adding catch cans etc.
Why not add an oil catch can. the more oil you stop from getting recirculated in the better...
I am thinking of adding one to my 3.6, is the 3.6 non diesel engine the same lame injector design?
Cool he found it. I was going to say its mostly like carboned up not a failing injector.
Originally Posted by Willgatlin25
Mechanic has diagnosed the oil leak, after further digging into the issue, as several seals. Camshaft Oil Seal, Valley Pan Gasket, and All Upper / Lower Intake Seals. Oil pan gasket does not appear to be leaking.
Misfire was further diagnosed as being massive carbon build up, not a bad injector. Upper intake manifold is being cleaned as well as both lower. Below is a photo showing the lower intake manifold, left side, and you can see how the carbon build up has almost completely clogged the intake port over cylinder 2.
Lower Intake, Left Engine Side, Above Cylinder 2, BEFORE CLEANING Lower Intake, Left Engine Side, Above Cylinder 2, AFTER CLEANING.
Carbon build up issue with direct injection on these FSI engines.... Nothing to stop it or prevent it. Unfortunately this is what happens.
Currently waiting for the motor to be reassembled and tested. Hopefully the errors are corrected after this work.
The 4.2 fsi doesn’t have EGR, just uses crankcase ventilation that passes through the large PCV that separates the oil from the gas and is “”meant to” only redirect the gases into the intake throttle valve.
problem is it can’t catch/seperate all the oil vapour and thats how we get stuck with carboned valve stems. I have put a catch can setup on my 4.2 with good results as I had already replace the PCV and done the carbon clean twice myself with good results afterwards, but wanted to prevent it occurring again so added the catch can.
There are setups available to buy in the States that suit the 2.0T engines etc but you will get the idea on how it can be done.
The 4.2 only has 2x air valves fitted to the front of the exhaust manifold each side that pumps air into the exhaust via an electric pump on cold start up to reduce overfuelling whilst the O2 sensors and Cats warm up up. After that the air valves shut off.
there is no electronics monitoring the PCV group so nothing to worry about with adding catch cans etc.
By chance do you have any links to catch can setup’s for the 4.2 FSI?
It basically goes in between the pcv hose and intake.
I looked at the hose replacement part for the 3.6 and it seems really short blah. I want to make a video adding one.
Ide like to see how one is added to the 4.2 also.
i plan on adding an oil catch can to my other car. So far at 220,000 it barely has any oil blow by. So I wanna handle it before it becomes a problem lol.
It basically goes in between the pcv hose and intake.
I looked at the hose replacement part for the 3.6 and it seems really short blah. I want to make a video adding one.
Ide like to see how one is added to the 4.2 also.
i plan on adding an oil catch can to my other car. So far at 220,000 it barely has any oil blow by. So I wanna handle it before it becomes a problem lol.
I researched the general concept. I was going to put one on my F150 Ecoboost but it was still under warranty and of course any modifications to the emissions system voids out the warranty. Had I known I was going to have my truck slammed into and totaled by a drunk driver I would have done it anyway, but that’s in the past lol.
May 08 Q7 4.2 is CLEARLY not under warranty. The only warranty that’s still valid is the corrosion warranty. It’s valid for 12 years, unlimited mileage. However I have zero corrosion so I really don’t care.
Bumper to Bumper and Drivetrain is clearly expired so adding any mods at this point will only benefit me, if done correctly.
When I was researching catch can setups for my F150 the install process looked really confusing and the prefab kits were stupid expensive for a relatively simple system. If I can add a catch can that will allow me to monitor and dump out the nasty oil/water vapors before they suck back into the intake that would be freakin fantastic. Definitely hoping someone can provide a kit or good instructional video on adding one to the 4.2 FSI.
Totally unrelated to the catch can thing is that I feel I should do a good oil change after having all the work replacing oil seals and carbon cleaning. I don’t want any little bits flying around in there and clogging my sump or tiny oil passages.
Anyone have recommendations on oil weight / brand? I think OEM calls for Castrol 5/40. Here in Washington we are heading towards what looks to be a pretty toasty summer. Just last week we hit 90 F. Summers here in Washington usually vary between 75-95 F. Would a full synthetic 5/40 be a good choice on my 4.2? Keeping in mind I do have a motor with 150k on it and sometimes the thicker oils aid in additional protection on aging motors. Good example is my Mk4 VR6 Gas Jetta... it has 233,000 miles and I’m running Chevron Delo rated for Diesel motors in that one. Made it much happier when I went to a super thick oil.
Opinions? Should I stick with 5/40?
I’m also now a believer in ATP-205 oil seal rejuvenator so I’m wondering if I should add another bottle of that when I do the oil change just to keep the new and old existing seals nice and soft?
I bought this one for my other car because it has a dipstick and holds a quart of oil. There really is no difference expensive or cheap. The expensive ones have cloth filters. But why is that needed?
I supposed u could add one
I bought this one for my other car because it has a dipstick and holds a quart of oil. There really is no difference expensive or cheap. The expensive ones have cloth filters. But why is that needed?
I supposed u could add one
Thats a really good price, looks to be straightforward. I’d prefer one that has a clear can or some type of visual slot on the side of the can so you can monitor the contents level. If that thing got full and you didn’t know you’d end up pumping vacuum fed sludge directly into your intake at high and random amounts. Can you imagine if you hit a hard bump with that can topped off and it suddenly sucked an ounce of sludge up and shot it right into the valves? I’d imagine that would be a poor result or some really cool looking smoke lol.
I wonder if you could utilize a catch can as an intake cleaning system? Such as filling up the catch can full of Seafoam or BG44K and just let it slowly suck that stuff into the intake as you drive? That might be a completely moronic statement on my part, I’m just rattling off thoughts.
Now I need to find some type of instructional to install this on my 4.2.
05-14-2019, 08:48 PM
