Willgatlin25

Strange spraying noise has completely stopped during acceleration. Only guess I have is that it was something burning off like the walnut shell media frying on the exhaust or getting sucked through the fan. Whatever it was it’s gone.

As for my oil leaks, I still have what looks to be one left. Looks like it’s at the rear, possibly rear main. I have a bad stink of burning oil coming into the cab, occasionally, but not constant. However I still have about two spots where oil is dripping onto my driveway. Better than the 6 or 7 oil stains I was getting! I tried ATP-205 to try and hydrate the seals but to no avail. I read some amazing reviews on the stuff and it was even recommended to me, however it didn’t work. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem like the ATP-205 did anything to stop or slow any leaking.
From what I’ve gathered replacing the rear main seal requires dropping the transmission and I’m not prepared to pay for the labor on that one. It’s jot a horrible leak at the moment, just an annoying one.... Im hoping it won’t go crazy on me and just stay a nice little annoying leak for a while. I’m not sure that the labor cost involved in replacing the seal is worth the investment on this vehicle.

As for my random taillight issues. I was able to diagnose that I do have one brake light out for sure, it’s not just the computer “thinking” that it’s out. I do have lights coming on in the rear hatch so I know the micro switch is working that tells the computer if the lift gate is open or closed. Looks like there are 4 brake lights in the rear hatch and my inner most taillight on the left side is the one that’s out. I bought OEM bulbs from NAPA which apparently is one of the only places locally here that carry’s the OEM bulb matching the correct resistance, wattage, and voltage. I am going to swap that bulb tomorrow and see if the brake lamp out warning clears.
Last issue remaining is a turn signal bulb out error I’m getting on the rear right side. I checked with the hatch closed and the rear hatch signal lamp flashes. When I open the hatch the lower bumper signal lamp flashes and the hatch does not. This seems more like a harness issue on the right side now since the left was replaced. More to come on that....

bspurloc

harness issue? what could go wrong with wires??? thats not an actual question lol.
The wires dont move. so basically the only real thing that happens is corrosion in the socket. which would make the bulb not work. or possible corrosion in connectors. besides that wires just dont go bad, they dont have expiration's lol. they dont sit untouched and have fits, they dont wear from carrying electricity. very odd... are your roof drains leaking??
You have a few odd issues!
Are you sure the dripping isnt from old oil that was on the under cover??
I still dont believe 2 fuel injectors went bad. it just doesnt make sense.
The fuel lines dont have sediment or corrosion in them so smack them all day long nothing is going to "break lose" and clog an injector.
I'm not sure where the fuel filter is on this car but that may need a changing, but I am not saying that as if something would get through it if it was clogged. clogged means clogged, it doesnt mean oh now stuff can get through, that is silly logic.

Willgatlin25

By harness issue I was referring to corrosion, either at the connector or socket. I know that the left one, that was replaced, had bad corrosion in the sockets. I guess this is a pretty common problem on these Q7’s.
As far as water or moisture leaks, I haven’t noticed anything honestly. I did check in the spare tire area and it maybe felt a touch damp or just increased humidity but there were no water spots, rust marks, puddles, nothing appeared visibly wet. I do want to clean the sun roof drain tubes. I’ve heard that there is actually a specific tool that the Audi dealerships have that’s basically a really long pipe cleaner. I don’t want to use any high pressure water or air in fear that I could blow the tubes apart and actually cause a water leak problem. I’m wondering if I can find some type of semi rigid wire that I can run down the drain tubes to clean them out.

As far as the injectors failing how they did, I can’t really comment on that either. I was right there with the mechanic when he did the work and regarding injector 5 he even took everything apart, checked the connection, and reassembled, and even after doing so the 5th injector just completely failed. It wasn’t until we replaced the injector that the problem was corrected. It’s rare to even have one injector go bad, but two to go bad almost simultaneously pretty much never happens. I too am at a complete loss as to why this would occur. The only thing I can think of is if a little burr of metal came off one of the steel fuel lines when they were being reattached and fed through just right to plug up injector 5. There’s nothing else I can conclude from this. All I can say for certain is that when the injector was replaced, the problem was resolved. Somehow, somewhere, something caused that injector to fail. How is a mystery.
I was going to do some research and see if this thing even has a fuel filter and if it does, how hard it is to replace. I know that some vehicles don’t even have fuel filters anymore but my general assumption is that this one does, so I’ll take a look. I agree that if the fuel filter was clogged it would just run like *** or wouldn’t run at all. Chunks don’t bypass the filter and clog elsewhere... that’s what the filter is for. Can’t hurt to swap it out if there’s is one and it’s not inside the tank or some crazy thing.

Willgatlin25

Wondering if anyone has attempted to clean the PCV tube(s) on their Q7 and how hard it was to remove that plastic PCV box contraption thing. Sorry I don’t know the technical name of it....
Ive read a couple things that said if that PCV system starts to clog up it can cause positive crankcase pressure resulting in oil leaks and damaging engine seals. Just thought if this device could be cleaned maybe it would help with any excess crankcase pressure, if any exists.

Update on this: Did a bit more looking around and it seems like a relatively simple process. Most suggest replacing it if it’s malfunctioning but I’m just looking at cleaning it. Lots of suggestions say to soak the PCV / Oil Separator in carb cleaner and let it break down any junk that in there. Blow it out with air and reinstall.

Up-it

Your right the black PCV valve can be removed in about 20mins. Just 3 torx screws, a hose clamp and some moving of the left hand intake tube and you can get to it. As for cleaning it, I would suggest replacing it because the internal diaphragm seal is made from a silicone rubber which is quite prone to reacting/ swelling to cleaning fluids such as brake cleaner/ carb cleaner. There are no issues in cleaning the rest of the system with these fluids, perhaps just not the PCV.
in another note, you been in the US, the price of a replacement shouldn’t be any dearer then $100. Ebay etc is the go.
all in all if your going to remove all the PCV group and or maybe add the catch can setup, why not just replace the PCV while your at it.

bspurloc

I would not attempt to clean the roof drains by sticking anything down or up the tubes. U r almost certainly going to cause them to come apart fully or partially at the pathethically stupid rubber spot welds they used to hold the connectors to the tubes.
The design flaw has to be addressed by dropping the roof panel and redoing them. I treat myself on how stupid this design is. The connectors are attached to the outside of the down tubes which means the water is draining ONTO the tube instead INTO the tube. If u can’t comprehend this. Think of it like this. When u go to use a funnel next time make the bottom of the funnel BIGGER than the hole u want to get the fluid into instead of smaller. That is what Audi did on the drains. The rubber spot welds loosen over time creating a gap and this water flows down the sides of the tubes.
Go thru a car wash. Then check your spare tire area. It shouldn’t have any moisture at all.
All cars have fuel filters. The issue is they started putting them inside the gas tank and why people think they don’t have one.

Willgatlin25

Looks like the fuel filter for my Q7 might be under the rear seat. Moderate pain the A&& to get to but doesn’t look terrible. What’s with Audi and putting stuff under the seats! First my battery and now the fuel filter. It’s like they used every available void space to stick something in. Like the Bose sub in the spare tire rim.... Moderate to stupid design.

Willgatlin25

Wonder if I should put one of those “Damp Rid” containers back in that spare tire area? Lots of places to secure one so it doesn’t tip over and spill any of the liquid contents. Just thinking if there was any moisture back there the damp rid would help to keep it dry.
I was planning on taking everything out of the spare tire spot and cleaning it all out by hand, checking for signs of moisture or puddling throughout that whole space. First glance looks decent with no mold under the carpet hatch or signs of moisture but I should probably take all the contents out and give it a proper inspection.

Willgatlin25

Ill check that out this afternoon and just get a visual on it. I know the crankcase still has a good vacuum on it which tells me that PCV system is still working, but to what efficiency I don’t know.
I figure out that a good way to diagnose the PCV failure, if it’s not already obvious is one of two things. Apparently when these fail badly they can make a high pitched squealing noise, easily misidentified as an idler pulley or serpentine belt. Also if the engine is running rough combined with opening the oil filter cap and it doesn’t fall on its face then your PCV is toast. Or you have a massive vacuum leak lol.
I don’t have any symptoms of that at all so I was just considering applying some type of maintenance cleaning to the PCV. However, I agree, if the PCV has a silicone diaphragm then soaking it in carb cleaner or otherwise could actually create a failure that I don’t presently have.

Just snooping around at replacement cost for the PCV. The genuine VW/AUDI oil separator is $239 bucks US. Generic whatever brand is closer to $60. I’ve been told to always use OEM on these cars. Not sure if there’s a risk to using non-oem on a PCV or not. Possibly risking cheaper construction asking for early failure?
I miss my old 98 Honda Accord where the PCV was just basically a vacuum check valve and cost 6 bucks lol.

bspurloc

If the drains actually r leaking moisture in the tire area is of zero concern. The path the moisture takes to get there is the issue.
I believe there is other threads of people mentioning their rear hatch wasn’t sealed anymore allowing water inside of it. That could be your issue causing corroded sockets.
The fuel filter under rear seat makes sense since many new cars put access to replace the fuel pump under a rear seat. Sure as hell better that having to drop the gas tank to replace the pump. Dropping a tank is a real pain in the anus.
Get a used pvc system off eBay? How much r those lol. I haven’t looked at the pvc system on these cars yet. If there r not electronics I don’t see why aftermarket is any different etc