josgarc

just replaced my 21" tires and got 24,500 miles or so on them. 3 of the 4 original dunlops were falling apart especially in the inside rear wall. Saw the alignment after report and was SHOCKED ON THE NEGATIVE CAMBER SPECS!!!!

Per the report, negative camber in the 1's is normal. The shop said this is typical with German cars due to faster speed limits over seas that allow the camber to compensate?

Scratching me head......

weso

Can I ask what type of new tires you put on?

PROEDGEBIKER.COM

2 different dealers told me to leave them out of my order since they are unsafe for young children & infants so I did.

PROEDGEBIKER.COM

Well... That wasn't meant for this thread. Weird it ended up here.

Edd W

No problem. It has me left wondering what it was in response to though!

Greystoke

I'm pretty sure it was meant for the "Should I buy Rear Side Airbags" thread in the MKII discussion area.

Grey

efett

Curious how you managed to get 24k out of your tires?

I had the Dunlop Sport Maxx (OEM) 295/35R21 and only got 7k out of them I actually called Dunlop and got the tires warrantied and got another 7k.

I just switched to Continental DWS and went to a 0º toe front and rear and dialed the camber down a 1/2º. Hopefully with the harder tire and no toe my tires will last longer.

minsicomm

07 4.2 Premium here.

I have the 265/50/19 size, and went through the first two sets in about 22-24k miles each. (from the dealer Bridgestones to start, then Pirelli Scorpion Verdes).

I now have Nitto NT421Q SUV tires, and so far at 40k of wear, I am only halfway through the life of the tires based on the wear indicators.

The tires listed above are all-season touring tires. Other types, like HP/UHP tires, or summer only tires may not last as long because of their design.

Keep in mind that the manufacturer does matter, as does your driving style.

But 8,000 miles? Is the dealer assuming you are going wide open throttle from every stop? Geez.


Anyway, no issues with MMI at all.

And I don't track overall maintenance costs, but all I've had to do is routine services per the manual. Oil changes with filters run me about $90, and I change the air filters (engine and cabin) myself, as well as light bulbs as needed. Cheap parts there. The plugs aren't expensive to get replaced either. I am due for the transmission AND timing services very shortly, and that IS going to cost some coin, even now that I have switched to highly regarded local indie shop (out of warranty at this point). But since its paid off and has been reliable, I'd rather pay the work, and stick with what I know than trade this in and something else.

And at some point since I'll hit 100k miles by the end of the year (I think), I'd like to have a good look at the suspension stuff (arms, bushings, etc) and see if they are worth replacing yet.