Towing Trailer
03-18-2018, 09:32 AM
#21
Guys, regarding your drawbar-ball mount length discussion———
The tongue weight of the trailer will not change with different length drawbars. It will be the same but it’s EFFECT on the vehicle will be greater with a longer drawbar.
This is due to the additional leverage of a longer drawbar. Visualize this by exaggerating. What if the hitch to ball distance were 6 FEET instead of 6 inches? A 700 lb tongue weight at that distance would compress the rear springs lots more and would twist the hitch mount right out of the vehicle!
All this said I wouldn’t worry much about one that was only an inch or even two longer. That hitch mount is plenty beefy. I’ve towed my track car for years with a regular trailer store drawbar. (I think it’s a Draw-Tite.) Our new 2015 Q7 does have one of the Audi drawbars with it and I’ll use it in the future but our 2011 did not have one and I just used one that I had had for years. Never was a problem with about 5000 lbs of trailer and car and tires and tools.
The tongue weight of the trailer will not change with different length drawbars. It will be the same but it’s EFFECT on the vehicle will be greater with a longer drawbar.
This is due to the additional leverage of a longer drawbar. Visualize this by exaggerating. What if the hitch to ball distance were 6 FEET instead of 6 inches? A 700 lb tongue weight at that distance would compress the rear springs lots more and would twist the hitch mount right out of the vehicle!
All this said I wouldn’t worry much about one that was only an inch or even two longer. That hitch mount is plenty beefy. I’ve towed my track car for years with a regular trailer store drawbar. (I think it’s a Draw-Tite.) Our new 2015 Q7 does have one of the Audi drawbars with it and I’ll use it in the future but our 2011 did not have one and I just used one that I had had for years. Never was a problem with about 5000 lbs of trailer and car and tires and tools.
03-18-2018, 09:43 AM
#22
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
The Tow Option in MMI will go ON/OFF Automatically when it detects something plugged into the trailer plug, you dont have to enable/disable it.. I think the option is there for stuff like bikeracks with lights, so you can over-ride it and say actually we are not towing despite something being plugged in.
I put it in Tow Mode option manually when I took it in for smog check, I didnt want it to squat down on the rollers and loosen up the straps.. so it can also be used for Dyno runs.
I put it in Tow Mode option manually when I took it in for smog check, I didnt want it to squat down on the rollers and loosen up the straps.. so it can also be used for Dyno runs.
Here in CA, they don't, they just hook up their tools and rev. My 97 4runner amazes them every time! It runs on Dyno. They say they never seen one that clean (280,800 mi) or run that great, test that clean. I pray this Q does the same for years to come!
I think Smog is all BS either way and some states throw big stupid looking stickers all over your screen. Atrocity I say! Michigan does not test, but they have most GROSS poluters!
03-18-2018, 10:00 AM
#23
AudiWorld Super User
Its just an opacity test for Diesels, they dont plug into the computer or even look under the vehicle.. As long as your not blowing smoke, you pass.. Had to find an Indy AWD Diesel Testing center for it, the state wont even test em.
Gassers go into State Emissions centers and they plug into OBD2, if you have no CEL and all readiness markers green they just do it largely through computer only.. Though they did put my RS6 on rollers when I had it tested, and the ****ers bent a rear sway bar linkage because the car was so low.
Testing is only applied to the Metro Denver area, so its not all of Colorado either.. If I get a mailing address out of the city and register my cars there the'd never need tested again.. Ive got some land down south I been thinking of doing that with, but I'd have to install a mailbox, register for an address (its just a lot# now) and then constantly remember to setup forwards because I rarely go visit it.. Havent seen it in like 3 years now heh.
Gassers go into State Emissions centers and they plug into OBD2, if you have no CEL and all readiness markers green they just do it largely through computer only.. Though they did put my RS6 on rollers when I had it tested, and the ****ers bent a rear sway bar linkage because the car was so low.
Testing is only applied to the Metro Denver area, so its not all of Colorado either.. If I get a mailing address out of the city and register my cars there the'd never need tested again.. Ive got some land down south I been thinking of doing that with, but I'd have to install a mailbox, register for an address (its just a lot# now) and then constantly remember to setup forwards because I rarely go visit it.. Havent seen it in like 3 years now heh.
Last edited by dreadlocks; 03-18-2018 at 10:07 AM.
03-23-2018, 11:32 AM
#24
I towed a 26' travel trailer more than 3000 miles over the past year, including multiple crosses of mountain ranges, with my 2014 Q7 3.0 w/AS. I went through much of the same questions about hitches and shanks and weight, etc. In the end the Q7 has been a secure and strong towing machine, and the most comfortable tow vehicle when you are not towing. Most of my towing was done with the 2nd alternative below (WDH). Trailer is 5138 lbs empty but full propane, 6250 lbs GVWR, 660 measured tongue weight. I try to keep the load on the light side and minimize tank levels.
Few points from my experience, take with a grain of salt. Don't do any of this based on what I say.
1) OEM shank parameters are almost impossible to use, therefore useless, so you have to modify and make the best decisions you can and try to understand the risks. The parameters are impossible with an off-the-lot U.S. travel trailer since there are no TTs in the U.S. which have such a low tongue. Nobody is going to buy a new TT and spend $10,000 cutting off the tongue to re-weld it lower so that it can fit the towing vehicle's singular permissible ball height.
2) I think the OEM shank/ball says "do not modify," but it has a 2" ball, so for most TT you must modify/replace with a 2 5/16" ball. Neither Audi nor VW will do that or can do that. The ball nut is sealed on with LocTite Red, which cannot be broken. UHaul was the only shop that would try and they failed. I was able to do it at home by heating with a blowtorch to melt the LocTite and removing the nut with 2 pipe wrenches, one with 6' extension for torque.
3) To get close to level on my trailer with the OEM shank, I inverted it and use a CURT 40036 2 5/16" long shank ball with 2" rise. This ball is on top of a 1/4" thick Husky 39585 Sway Control Ball Mount Adapter. I had to grind the sway adapter to fit the OEM shank, and drill the ball hole out to fit its shaft. This allows me to use the OEM shaft, but also I can add friction sway control when I feel it's necessary. (Note the sway control ball sits 2" below the hitch ball, and I am not 100% sure how I feel about the angle that creates on the anti-sway device.)
Pros: Easy to install/remove, very simple engineering, low weight, obeys Audi shank length law.
Cons: Combination is still about an inch low on the trailer tongue. There is less distance to trailer so be careful that rear hatch does not hit tongue jack, and use caution when turning/backing so you don't mangle the bumper. Violates Audi ball height and anti-modification laws. Expensive for a piece of metal you need to modify at your own risk.
I have been looking at a different shank: TowSmart #738 which has a 3" rise when inverted but the shank is not as long as some.
Most of my Q7 towing has been with an EazeLift 800 lb WDH 48057
Pro: Stable, simple time-tested engineering, inexpensive, quiet when lubricated, it came with friction anti-sway
Con: Heavy, violates Audi "No WDH" law, violates Audi shank length and hitch ball height laws.
Rationale: Loading 660 lbs onto the hitch imparts a downward rotational torque to the hitch. The WDH imparts an upward rotational torque on the same hitch of around 600 lbs. I never use the bars at maximum lift (maximum would be 800 lb upward). I cannot imagine how a close-to-neutral up/down torque, or a couple of 100 pounds up or down will make the hitch break and fall off the Audi.
Comments: I looked into cutting/re-drilling the WDH shank to bring it closer to the Audi length-to-ball spec, but the thing is solid 2" steel.
Few points from my experience, take with a grain of salt. Don't do any of this based on what I say.
1) OEM shank parameters are almost impossible to use, therefore useless, so you have to modify and make the best decisions you can and try to understand the risks. The parameters are impossible with an off-the-lot U.S. travel trailer since there are no TTs in the U.S. which have such a low tongue. Nobody is going to buy a new TT and spend $10,000 cutting off the tongue to re-weld it lower so that it can fit the towing vehicle's singular permissible ball height.
2) I think the OEM shank/ball says "do not modify," but it has a 2" ball, so for most TT you must modify/replace with a 2 5/16" ball. Neither Audi nor VW will do that or can do that. The ball nut is sealed on with LocTite Red, which cannot be broken. UHaul was the only shop that would try and they failed. I was able to do it at home by heating with a blowtorch to melt the LocTite and removing the nut with 2 pipe wrenches, one with 6' extension for torque.
3) To get close to level on my trailer with the OEM shank, I inverted it and use a CURT 40036 2 5/16" long shank ball with 2" rise. This ball is on top of a 1/4" thick Husky 39585 Sway Control Ball Mount Adapter. I had to grind the sway adapter to fit the OEM shank, and drill the ball hole out to fit its shaft. This allows me to use the OEM shaft, but also I can add friction sway control when I feel it's necessary. (Note the sway control ball sits 2" below the hitch ball, and I am not 100% sure how I feel about the angle that creates on the anti-sway device.)
Pros: Easy to install/remove, very simple engineering, low weight, obeys Audi shank length law.
Cons: Combination is still about an inch low on the trailer tongue. There is less distance to trailer so be careful that rear hatch does not hit tongue jack, and use caution when turning/backing so you don't mangle the bumper. Violates Audi ball height and anti-modification laws. Expensive for a piece of metal you need to modify at your own risk.
I have been looking at a different shank: TowSmart #738 which has a 3" rise when inverted but the shank is not as long as some.
Most of my Q7 towing has been with an EazeLift 800 lb WDH 48057
Pro: Stable, simple time-tested engineering, inexpensive, quiet when lubricated, it came with friction anti-sway
Con: Heavy, violates Audi "No WDH" law, violates Audi shank length and hitch ball height laws.
Rationale: Loading 660 lbs onto the hitch imparts a downward rotational torque to the hitch. The WDH imparts an upward rotational torque on the same hitch of around 600 lbs. I never use the bars at maximum lift (maximum would be 800 lb upward). I cannot imagine how a close-to-neutral up/down torque, or a couple of 100 pounds up or down will make the hitch break and fall off the Audi.
Comments: I looked into cutting/re-drilling the WDH shank to bring it closer to the Audi length-to-ball spec, but the thing is solid 2" steel.
03-23-2018, 08:12 PM
#25
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
I towed a 26' travel trailer more than 3000 miles over the past year, including multiple crosses of mountain ranges, with my 2014 Q7 3.0 w/AS. I went through much of the same questions about hitches and shanks and weight, etc. In the end the Q7 has been a secure and strong towing machine, and the most comfortable tow vehicle when you are not towing. Most of my towing was done with the 2nd alternative below (WDH). Trailer is 5138 lbs empty but full propane, 6250 lbs GVWR, 660 measured tongue weight. I try to keep the load on the light side and minimize tank levels.
Few points from my experience, take with a grain of salt. Don't do any of this based on what I say.
1) OEM shank parameters are almost impossible to use, therefore useless, so you have to modify and make the best decisions you can and try to understand the risks. The parameters are impossible with an off-the-lot U.S. travel trailer since there are no TTs in the U.S. which have such a low tongue. Nobody is going to buy a new TT and spend $10,000 cutting off the tongue to re-weld it lower so that it can fit the towing vehicle's singular permissible ball height.
2) I think the OEM shank/ball says "do not modify," but it has a 2" ball, so for most TT you must modify/replace with a 2 5/16" ball. Neither Audi nor VW will do that or can do that. The ball nut is sealed on with LocTite Red, which cannot be broken. UHaul was the only shop that would try and they failed. I was able to do it at home by heating with a blowtorch to melt the LocTite and removing the nut with 2 pipe wrenches, one with 6' extension for torque.
3) To get close to level on my trailer with the OEM shank, I inverted it and use a CURT 40036 2 5/16" long shank ball with 2" rise. This ball is on top of a 1/4" thick Husky 39585 Sway Control Ball Mount Adapter. I had to grind the sway adapter to fit the OEM shank, and drill the ball hole out to fit its shaft. This allows me to use the OEM shaft, but also I can add friction sway control when I feel it's necessary. (Note the sway control ball sits 2" below the hitch ball, and I am not 100% sure how I feel about the angle that creates on the anti-sway device.)
Pros: Easy to install/remove, very simple engineering, low weight, obeys Audi shank length law.
Cons: Combination is still about an inch low on the trailer tongue. There is less distance to trailer so be careful that rear hatch does not hit tongue jack, and use caution when turning/backing so you don't mangle the bumper. Violates Audi ball height and anti-modification laws. Expensive for a piece of metal you need to modify at your own risk.
I have been looking at a different shank: TowSmart #738 which has a 3" rise when inverted but the shank is not as long as some.
Most of my Q7 towing has been with an EazeLift 800 lb WDH 48057
Pro: Stable, simple time-tested engineering, inexpensive, quiet when lubricated, it came with friction anti-sway
Con: Heavy, violates Audi "No WDH" law, violates Audi shank length and hitch ball height laws.
Rationale: Loading 660 lbs onto the hitch imparts a downward rotational torque to the hitch. The WDH imparts an upward rotational torque on the same hitch of around 600 lbs. I never use the bars at maximum lift (maximum would be 800 lb upward). I cannot imagine how a close-to-neutral up/down torque, or a couple of 100 pounds up or down will make the hitch break and fall off the Audi.
Comments: I looked into cutting/re-drilling the WDH shank to bring it closer to the Audi length-to-ball spec, but the thing is solid 2" steel.
Few points from my experience, take with a grain of salt. Don't do any of this based on what I say.
1) OEM shank parameters are almost impossible to use, therefore useless, so you have to modify and make the best decisions you can and try to understand the risks. The parameters are impossible with an off-the-lot U.S. travel trailer since there are no TTs in the U.S. which have such a low tongue. Nobody is going to buy a new TT and spend $10,000 cutting off the tongue to re-weld it lower so that it can fit the towing vehicle's singular permissible ball height.
2) I think the OEM shank/ball says "do not modify," but it has a 2" ball, so for most TT you must modify/replace with a 2 5/16" ball. Neither Audi nor VW will do that or can do that. The ball nut is sealed on with LocTite Red, which cannot be broken. UHaul was the only shop that would try and they failed. I was able to do it at home by heating with a blowtorch to melt the LocTite and removing the nut with 2 pipe wrenches, one with 6' extension for torque.
3) To get close to level on my trailer with the OEM shank, I inverted it and use a CURT 40036 2 5/16" long shank ball with 2" rise. This ball is on top of a 1/4" thick Husky 39585 Sway Control Ball Mount Adapter. I had to grind the sway adapter to fit the OEM shank, and drill the ball hole out to fit its shaft. This allows me to use the OEM shaft, but also I can add friction sway control when I feel it's necessary. (Note the sway control ball sits 2" below the hitch ball, and I am not 100% sure how I feel about the angle that creates on the anti-sway device.)
Pros: Easy to install/remove, very simple engineering, low weight, obeys Audi shank length law.
Cons: Combination is still about an inch low on the trailer tongue. There is less distance to trailer so be careful that rear hatch does not hit tongue jack, and use caution when turning/backing so you don't mangle the bumper. Violates Audi ball height and anti-modification laws. Expensive for a piece of metal you need to modify at your own risk.
I have been looking at a different shank: TowSmart #738 which has a 3" rise when inverted but the shank is not as long as some.
Most of my Q7 towing has been with an EazeLift 800 lb WDH 48057
Pro: Stable, simple time-tested engineering, inexpensive, quiet when lubricated, it came with friction anti-sway
Con: Heavy, violates Audi "No WDH" law, violates Audi shank length and hitch ball height laws.
Rationale: Loading 660 lbs onto the hitch imparts a downward rotational torque to the hitch. The WDH imparts an upward rotational torque on the same hitch of around 600 lbs. I never use the bars at maximum lift (maximum would be 800 lb upward). I cannot imagine how a close-to-neutral up/down torque, or a couple of 100 pounds up or down will make the hitch break and fall off the Audi.
Comments: I looked into cutting/re-drilling the WDH shank to bring it closer to the Audi length-to-ball spec, but the thing is solid 2" steel.
Wish me luck.
03-24-2018, 04:10 PM
#26
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
I received my aluminum ball mount today with the quick change ***** (2" & 2 5/16"). I have to say it looks bad *** on there and I hope and pray that when I find a trailer that it will ride level with no mods, after all I went through to get this one. I can flip it and lift the ball if needed, but again, I hope I will not have to. I will have a 7000# tandem axle trailer, but I cannot see having that much in, in fact, I would be lucky to have 3000 plus the 2200 - 2400# trailer.
Wish me luck.
Wish me luck.
03-24-2018, 09:58 PM
#27
Looks like art
Are you sure that is a hitch shank and not an expensive modern art sculpture? Very nice looking!
I have a similar pin lock, but on mine both ends stick out a bit like your lock end. I can only unlock it if the lock side is on the left near the plug. The other end is pretty snug against the plastic bumper cover and may be scuffing it a bit. Fortunately that area is not so visible.
I have a similar pin lock, but on mine both ends stick out a bit like your lock end. I can only unlock it if the lock side is on the left near the plug. The other end is pretty snug against the plastic bumper cover and may be scuffing it a bit. Fortunately that area is not so visible.
03-25-2018, 01:49 PM
#29
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
03-27-2018, 10:51 PM
#30
AudiWorld Senior Member
Thread Starter
UPDATE!
I found a 7 x 14 Haulmark, smooth skin, v-nose with ramp and RV style door and Aluminum wheels(bonus)! 180 miles from home.
I get there check it out and make the decision. As they are getting it ready for me and I walk around, it all looks great excepting 3 screws were wapped out and they replaced them no worries, excepting the dudes screw gun slips off the screw and up the ramp of the trailer, so now there is a nice little scar, which I think I can rub out, but did not tell them that. And a tiny red marker light bottom back side was hanging out a tad, which I can adjust, I didn't want his dudes to touch it again.
I was already getting a pretty decent deal for California high priced everything, so no worries.
I hook up to this trailer, plug in and hit the lights (running and flashers). Everything perfect, looking from the back end.
I jump in and notice the brake controller is flashing (I think blue maybe green) like crazy, so I shut the lights off and jump out and unplug the trailer.
Brake controller back to normal, so I climbed in and disconnected the brake controller harness (I will research this again tonight) And I know running empty is not a big deal for the Q, I have hauled heavier with no breaks. (2200 lbs or so)
The dude asked me to plug in to check the lights again, so I did. But before I can get the lights on, he said hey, these running lights are all blinking (about 5 seconds apart) WTH?
He pulls his plug checker out and found both blinkers and running lights were all hot, with everything off. Is this normal (I would think not) And I will have it checked by Audi asap, as this is a factory install!
So I turn the lights on anyway, they all worked great.
I towed it back home and this Q is incredible, I am impressed! Even for gas, which it used some coming home, but running 90 mph all the way there, excepting the 60 miles of bumper cars through LA, I was pulling great mileage and wish I would have checked before loading up, but I was pressed for time already.
I will dig into these issues first thing tomorrow, but if anyone has ideas, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks in advance.
I found a 7 x 14 Haulmark, smooth skin, v-nose with ramp and RV style door and Aluminum wheels(bonus)! 180 miles from home.
I get there check it out and make the decision. As they are getting it ready for me and I walk around, it all looks great excepting 3 screws were wapped out and they replaced them no worries, excepting the dudes screw gun slips off the screw and up the ramp of the trailer, so now there is a nice little scar, which I think I can rub out, but did not tell them that. And a tiny red marker light bottom back side was hanging out a tad, which I can adjust, I didn't want his dudes to touch it again.
I was already getting a pretty decent deal for California high priced everything, so no worries.
I hook up to this trailer, plug in and hit the lights (running and flashers). Everything perfect, looking from the back end.
I jump in and notice the brake controller is flashing (I think blue maybe green) like crazy, so I shut the lights off and jump out and unplug the trailer.
Brake controller back to normal, so I climbed in and disconnected the brake controller harness (I will research this again tonight) And I know running empty is not a big deal for the Q, I have hauled heavier with no breaks. (2200 lbs or so)
The dude asked me to plug in to check the lights again, so I did. But before I can get the lights on, he said hey, these running lights are all blinking (about 5 seconds apart) WTH?
He pulls his plug checker out and found both blinkers and running lights were all hot, with everything off. Is this normal (I would think not) And I will have it checked by Audi asap, as this is a factory install!
So I turn the lights on anyway, they all worked great.
I towed it back home and this Q is incredible, I am impressed! Even for gas, which it used some coming home, but running 90 mph all the way there, excepting the 60 miles of bumper cars through LA, I was pulling great mileage and wish I would have checked before loading up, but I was pressed for time already.
I will dig into these issues first thing tomorrow, but if anyone has ideas, please feel free to chime in.
Thanks in advance.