chickdr

With my 07 they replaced the frame and it continued to leak so they replaced it a a SECOND time which finally solved it. Total pain in the ***.

askered

Well, my 2008 is back at the dealer for the third time today to fix the leaking sunroof. It rained really hard all day yesterday, and in addition to finding water in the front passenger footwell, water also began dripping out of the ceiling-mounted lighting console (see pics).

Unfortunately, Audi USA stopped returning my calls (and subsequent requests to replace the entire sunroof frame) during the last episode, so it appears I'm on my own in working with the dealer.

New Q7 owners beware! It seems clear Audi is not interested in resolving their design flaws for most customers. This is evident by the TSB rather than recall. That's a simple, more cost effective way for the OEM to address the issue because they know Q7 owners in low precipitation areas will not be affected, and they leave the owners in high-precip areas to fend for themselves.

RAD2

It is unacceptable how the sunroof issue has been/is being handled, there have been many owners affected by this issue, and AudiNA is pretending that everything is OK

j4g3d

Sorry to dig a old thread up, but the issue is still going on for owners! Just wanted to share my experience with my leaking roof, since I did the repair myself. I wanted to make the cheapest repair possible, but also one that will last a LONG time. It cost me £4.50 / $6.22 to repair it. Initially my driver side (RHD) had water on the foot well /matt, but when I inspected all 4 corners of the drainage, all of them were on their way out or already gone and started to leak. The chances are, if one is leaking they all will be very very soon.

Its very easy to do. You don't need to drop the roof liner completely. You only need to reach your arm in on each corner, by dropping just the corners. The fronts are easier to do, i'd say. The rear needs your arm going in under the liner a little way more than the front!. But overall its a simple job even for the competent DIYer. It took me 1 hour in total. In fact, it took me longer to put the sun visors back on that to do the entire job!...they can be a fiddle to put back, but easy to take off.

I ADVISE YOU TO FIX THE PROBLEM BEFORE IT OCCURS! OR FIX ALL 4 CORNERS EVEN IF ONLY ONE IS LEAKING (OR NONE AT ALL) IT CAN SAVE YOU 3K+ IN DAMAGES!.

What you need:
- T25 TORX BIT and screwdriver for it or ratchet to remove all the parts holding the roof liner on
- WEATHER RESISTANT ADHESIVE (i used everbuild stixall like this one: https://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/everbui...yABEgJfvvD_BwE)
- A HEAT GUN/LIGHTER OR SOMETHING TO HEAT THE PIPE UP TO MAKE IT SOFT.
- A sharp knife to cut the hose at the base
- A flat head screwdriver
- A pair of pliers or something that will help stretch the pipe once heated up.
- CABLE TIE (optional)


FRONT




REAR



For the fix, I CUT the pipe right at the base of the white part, then I heated the pipe up so that is becomes flexible, i stretched it quite a bit so that it now goes OVER that white part rather than sitting inside it. I used black adhesive glue, which i think is used on house guttering repairs. Its water proof and tough. ONTOP of that i used a small cable tie. It is now secure as hell, all 4 of them. I checked the car 2 days later after it had been raining a lot.....DRY FLOORS! and NO DRIPS from the repair. After you've made the repair you can open the sunroof up and tip water into the drain holes, then check if its leaking.


This is one of the pipes before the fix...




This is where i cut it... the reason i left part of the pip inside the white part is because it reinforces it. plus the 2 spots of glue used at factory are quite strong.




After i cut it you could clearly see where the gaps are.




This is my fix (sorry bad lighting)



There is other people making the fix on youtube, but no guide on how to take the parts off. I hope my guide is accurate as I did do the job a couple of weeks ago now, so Im trying to remember everything I did.

Hope that this helps others out and gives others confidence in repairing the job themselves.

Vaslaz

First I want to say -> Thank you j4g3d !!!
Today I finally decided to fix my drains. I started with rear side since they were the problematical ones...
Personally I decided not to heat the rubber pipe, but to glue it. This was leaded by the fact that once I pulled it from the white rubber thing that connect it to the drain, I noticed that It was more rigid and when I squeezed the tube it cracks. I cut about 5mm from the edge and just put it back with an adhesive glue for rubber.
j4g3d's photos and explanation were perfect and for me it was easy to do the job. I just want to add some little details about rear side panels marked with green and (blue/purple) "X"...
To remove completely blue ones you should unscrew one more torx T20 screw I will show its location on a photo.
Also to put it back you should be very careful for one metal bracket that goes thru the metal column that this panel covers - I will mark it inside a double red circle on some of the photos.
For the panels marked with green "X" you should be careful to assemble them like it's performed on the photos, otherwise they will not take a perfectly aligned position...

N.B. When you start putting all back together, tries to keep your hands as clean as possible, because you will need to put the panels behind the rubber sealing and they are not the cleanest things in this car I made a few dark fingerprints that now must be cleaned up...

j4g3d

I am so happy that I gave you the confidence in attempting the repair yourself. And even more happier that mr audi doesn't take your hard earned money to rectify their mistake.

Nice clean repair you made.

I think also it will last just as long as my repair and yours is actually more simpler. The reason I didn't do it your way is because one guy who made the repair mentioned in a comment that you lose strength, but, as you've explained it, you don't think it will. I guess, all it is is water passing through, so what strength is needed? not much. Just the seal is VERY important. Flexible sealant is best i think.

tigerwillow1

I tested both the tube and the nipple on the end with PVC cement, and it "took" to both of them. So I used PVC cement to glue the base of the nipple to the tube and so far, so good. I'm a little hesitant to unconditionally recommend this because for all I know, Audi could have used different plastic that PVC cement wouldn't adhere to in some vehicles, so a small advance test is probably in order.

JoeIndy35

I did this repair years ago. Be careful with the fronts because our sun visors electrical wires crimp right there where they screw in. Both of mine shorted out and caused all of my interior lights to not work. It took me forever to realize this and fix them.

I just pulled the caps / fittings off the hose, cleaned it all up, used Plumber cement around the tip of the tube, and then used Gorilla Glue below that. pressed the fitting back on twisting just a tad. I then wrapped the whole thing with rubber tape. Let it cure over night, and popped them back on the sunroof nipple. They have not given me a bit of trouble since. I also had a service rebuild my amp off EBAY for $200 and its also worked perfectly for years. It was only a 2 week turn around time.

audiblack73

bspurloc

Yeah that is a whole different issue aka the front drains clogging.
There really is no reason at all for those black caps on the front drains, they do nothing but catch debris and clog.

anyone reading this who has not checked their front drains should do it asap they are almost certainly clogged.