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Dashcam installation

 
Old 10-22-2017, 05:20 PM
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Default Dashcam installation

I'm getting a 2 channel dashcam system for my Q7. I need help on how to run the wire for the rear cam. Does it require the tailgate trim to be removed? Has anyone done that? Thanks.
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Old 10-22-2017, 08:05 PM
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I just installed a front and rear dashcam. I would suggest two A119 dashcams instead of a single one with two camera. Why? Why not? Downside to two-channel is the wiring to the back, and also it is not cheaper than getting two complete cameras. Two cameras have more capability (1080P/60 instead of 1080P/30) and more redundancy.

I got, and recommend, the A119 (not the S version). They are $75 to $90. I prefer the Spytec version from Amazon as it has no logo on it. Maybe get that, and a $75 non-GPS one for the back.

For the front, stick it to the right of the mirror. Wire is tucked into roof liner, down pillar, under dash, use snake to fish wire to driver side. I plugged it into an Add-A-Fuse on the left of the steering wheel area fuse location.

Wire it so that it is on all the time, and put it into parking mode and use a 12.2v cutoff (under $4 from Hong Kong). Don't rely on the 11.6v units - that is too low to start your car. Cameras will both record when you park for about 1.5 days before the low-voltage cutoff kicks in.

You can combine this with a hard-wire kit. Or you can skip the hard-wire kit and use the cable and 12v plug that comes with the camera, and solder wires to it and connect them to one of these and then the add-a-fuse. If you get a hard-wire kit, and you probably should, get the kind with the angle-connector as they leave less visible wire.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Low-Voltage-Cut-off-Protection-Board-Automatic-Recovery-Module-for-12V-Battery/192254416042?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649

The back camera wire goes to rear-fuse area, also to an always-on fuse.

Last edited by rsilvers129; 10-22-2017 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 10-23-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129 View Post
I got, and recommend, the A119 (not the S version). They are $75 to $90. I prefer the Spytec version from Amazon as it has no logo on it. Maybe get that, and a $75 non-GPS one for the back.
.
Why do you say not the S (Sony) version?
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:13 AM
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I had the A119 with the capacitor and it's a great dash cam. If you get the separate GPS mount, I highly recommend you plug the power into the camera and not the GPS. The pins that connect them are a weakpoint and the camera starts to reboot every bump you hit.

I bought the Black Vue DR750S-2CH. I don't mind running wires in a car, used to do car audio/security "back in the day".

I did debate going the separate dashcam route, but with the wireless the new ones have and other stuff, I figured I'll deal with the hassle of running a wire.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Lectoid View Post
I had the A119 with the capacitor and it's a great dash cam. If you get the separate GPS mount, I highly recommend you plug the power into the camera and not the GPS. The pins that connect them are a weakpoint and the camera starts to reboot every bump you hit.
They fixed that by making the contacts larger, including a adhesive foam spacer, and calling the camera "V2." They now suggest using either plug. I recommend a hardwire kit with a 90-degree plug and using the GPS connection just because it is out of the way more.

Last edited by rsilvers129; 10-23-2017 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RickObe View Post
Why do you say not the S (Sony) version?
The S camera is 1080P and 30 frames per second.
The non-S is 1080P and 60 frames per second.

The S camera is limited to 1080P. The non-S goes up to 1440 res.

The S has more shadow detail at night, which is why some people like it. But what I think matters at night is reading plates. The non-S is coming out with a firmware upgrade that does an HDR high-speed shutter merged with a regular exposure to prevent plates from being over-exposed at night. That is a big deal.

The S version has a plastic lens mount. The non-S is metal.

The non-S has a wider angle view, but ends up being sharper due to the 1440 res and sharper optics. I have watches several YouTube comparisons, and did freeze-frames, and the non-S was a bit sharper on license plates.

So while the S is newer and costs more, I actually think it is worse.

Again, Spytec version is logo-free, and I suggest that one. But upgrade the firmware to 3.3 after you get it, and wire to always be on, and turn on parking mode.
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129 View Post
The S camera is .....
Great info. I had not thought about the importance of resolution for reading license plates. So I take it you would run it at 30fps/1440 rather than 60/1080?? I was thinking that 60fps would be important for getting all the details in a high speed event, but maybe resolution is more important?
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:18 AM
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Since the cameras are not using a cinematic shutter, the 60 fps does not have less motion blur than the 30 fps. So yes, run 1440.

Also dont use SandDisk Ultra cards. They fail early with constant writing.

Last edited by rsilvers129; 10-23-2017 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 10-23-2017, 10:26 AM
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Rear camera as seen in the rear view mirror.

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Old 10-23-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rsilvers129 View Post
Since the cameras are not using a cinematic shutter, the 60 fps does not have less motion blur than the 30 fps. So yes, run 1440.

Also dont use Sandisc ultra cards. They fail early with constant writing.
Thanks! Do you have a recommended card at a reasonable price?
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