1. Keep stock look as much as possible; don’t tear up my brand new car
2. Cost effective
3. Have options to use a standalone box later; requires a mono amp

1. 1 JL audio 8w3 (8w1 fits w/o no modification)
2. Fosgate R5001xd mono amp, 3. 4 gauge amp kit w/ fuse (I had a previous kit already)
4. mdf ring spacer, 5. mini-add-a-fuse, +10A fuse, 6. sub quick connects, 7. dynamat, 8. polyfill, 9. Car turn on amp time delay (perhaps optional)

a. Battery compartment is in the front passenger footwell. This is good and bad. Good, you don’t need to route anything thru the firewall and place a grommet. Bad, it’s on the other side of the car from the remote lead. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
b. Connect the power side of the 4 gauge wire to the battery. Add fuse as well (see photo)
c. Route the power wire down the side of the car. You need a decent length wire here. You will need to remove the bottom plastic plates. They are super annoying and you have to get the clips back in just right for a snug fit
d. Take the power wire to the back (3rd row). At this point you need to remove some of the plastic siding on the trunk side to drop the wire in such that it comes out at close to the subwoofer box (back right of the bottom of the trunk). These clips are even more annoying than the bottom plate ones. They are hard to fit right back in. Be patient. Or do what I did, eff it up and ask the dealership to pop it back into place when you take it in
e. Route lead to area under bose amplifier

a. In general pretty easy, but there is one pesky screw on the right most edge of the box. It fits under the plastic siding so I had to push against the siding to get it out. Btw, I did not put that screw back in
b. Lift out box
3. Prepare box
a. Remove old crappy sub
b. Disconnect sub wire connecter and put to the side
c. I didn’t want to use the existing connecters, so I mount one quick connect on the left hand edge of the box (actually, put it where ever you want/can). That’s where I put it, but it’s hard to get to once you put humpty back together. Perhaps on top somewhere, but couldn’t find a flush service. Use on of those wide router bits to bore open a hole, use self-tapping screws to secure. Don’t forget to connect a low gauge wire on the inside before mounting it
d. Fill box with poly fill. I just jammed as much as you can into this. honestly, wondering if I could have just bought this **** for .99 cents at Walmart
e. Use dynamat around the whole box. I just covered as much as I could. No, I don’t know how much it helped

a. Spray paint the mdf ring black (optional of course), but could look fugly w/o it
b. Once dry, use epoxy or your favorite plastic/mdf bonding material to the top of the sub hole (outer ring)
c. I used clamps to hold this in place as it dried
d. Use self-tapping screws to mount the 8w3 to the ring
e. Don’t forget to connect the end of the speaker wires to the sub terminal. Pay attention to positive/negative. Box should now be ready

a. Remove the two wire harnesses for the bose amp.
b. Remove 4 nuts/screws holding the bracket for the amp
c. Lift out of the bracket and mount the amp upside down to the bose amp (I used really long zip ties to hold it in place).
d. There’s prob a better way to mount this, but I did it this way. Pros – it seemed to fit better. Cons – hard to get to the gains. I think there was no room to mount it on top (couldn’t get the cargo cover to close). I might try it again. There are smaller amps like the alpine mrv
e. Leave the bracket out so you can do all the wire hookups

a. So I have old equipment sitting around, so tried my lci2 audio control box (it has this fancy remote turn on feature). Well, the fancy feature didn’t work. So now had to route a remote turn on wire
b. Go to the driver footwell and replace the dead pedal (pesky hex bolt)
c. Use the mini-add-a-fuse to middle section (bottom), sorry would need to look to see the actual number, could add a picture later.
d. Route wire from remote lead to the back. This is like a 14-16 ga wire.
e. Took out bottom plate panels to route from the front to rear, then tucked the wire under the plastic trim until it fed into the back

a. I had a lot of trouble with the grounds. Spend the time to do it properly
b. I made a small hole in the back (towards bumper)
c. I used a small cup wire brush to remove all the paint (attached to drill)
d. Then I put a ring connector on a 4ga wire and use a self tapping screw (need to drill this)
e. Its hard to get this in, I kept dropping the damn screw into the small bumper well.
f. Did this a few times so used a magnetic tool to fish out the screw each time I dropped it
g. Btw, I ran another smaller 14ga wire with ring connector as well for the time delay ckt

a. Run the 4ga gnd/pwr into the amp
b. Run the remote line into the amp
c. Splice the wire (I just removed the sub oem connector altogether to get a good connection) and run those into the fosgate 4-pin connector. It can take bose suib amp outputs as an input. Tie + wires together and – wire together
d. Route wire from amp to sub quick connects

a. So after all was installed, I had this annoying boom sound when I turned my car on. Even sometimes start/stop feature would cause a pop. It was unacceptable
b. So I bought this module which delays the amp turn on. It greatly reduced the pop. Still get a little, but is manageable.
c. I’m not 100% sure you need it. When I used this I had the lc2i in there and was using it as a LOC. When I removed it, I kept this module in there

a. If you are not used to a 8” sub, it won’t have the boom of a 10/12 of course. It is pretty fast reacting and has good pop
b. I’ve been playing around with the gains for awhile
c. Once you’ve tuned, carefully place the bracket back in place. I didn’t actually put the screws/nuts back on for this as I keep dorking with it. Eventually I will, but not all of them will fit as the amp is a little too wide. This was acceptable to me