Are the axels designed to hit the subframe?
#1
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Are the axels designed to hit the subframe?
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/axelcontactsubframe.jpg"></center><p>Oh - see the shinny band on my axel just half way up? When I have it jacked up the axel seems to touch the subframe. Maybe when I drive there is some contact at times. Is something else supposed to limit suspension travel or is this the way the car was designed?
#4
Does it actually hit?
Does it actually hit, or just 'come very close'?
I ask, because in your picture, it looks like the axle has been rubbing on the subframe in a front to back direction too. (The 'disturbed rust', to the right of the axel in the pictue, on the high part of the subframe).
Say... That's not the side that you replaced the strut on, is it? You could have got that rubbing (both on the axle, and the subframe) from moving the axel around when the strut was out.
In reality, there's nothing to limit the droop of the strut, except for the shock absorber internals. If the driveshaft IS hitting, either the strut is too low (from the shock letting tavel be excessive, or the thing on the strut top on top of the fender being wonky), or the subframe is too high.
I ask, because in your picture, it looks like the axle has been rubbing on the subframe in a front to back direction too. (The 'disturbed rust', to the right of the axel in the pictue, on the high part of the subframe).
Say... That's not the side that you replaced the strut on, is it? You could have got that rubbing (both on the axle, and the subframe) from moving the axel around when the strut was out.
In reality, there's nothing to limit the droop of the strut, except for the shock absorber internals. If the driveshaft IS hitting, either the strut is too low (from the shock letting tavel be excessive, or the thing on the strut top on top of the fender being wonky), or the subframe is too high.
#6
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CSI - I went to older photos of the crime scene.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/subframe.jpg"></center><p>Yes - this is the side where I replaced the strut. So this photo of 2 weeks ago show's the axel forward - because the front end is apart and it's just lying anywhere.
No shinny ring on the axel - so that ring must have occured during yesterday's 12 mile test drive. Hit a couple of bumps and if the front end rises the axel touches the subframe. The splash sheild seemed to be scraping the rotor so I worked on that and that axel ring caught my eye. SO I snaped the original post photo last night.
THis older photo shows some wear in the axel area of the subframe. Must have also happened a bit with the old bent strut.
THe arrows I added might be dents. ANyone have a comparison photo or a good subframe?
The car has H&R springs and is low. The shock insert is boge.
The new strut seems to be working out well. A lot of strange noises have disappeared - maybe due to the new strut bearing. The camber went from nasty positive to negative.
So - I don't know what to do if I have a strange problem here.
I'll be taking the other side apart as I have a inner boot problem there plus a bad bearing probably. steve
No shinny ring on the axel - so that ring must have occured during yesterday's 12 mile test drive. Hit a couple of bumps and if the front end rises the axel touches the subframe. The splash sheild seemed to be scraping the rotor so I worked on that and that axel ring caught my eye. SO I snaped the original post photo last night.
THis older photo shows some wear in the axel area of the subframe. Must have also happened a bit with the old bent strut.
THe arrows I added might be dents. ANyone have a comparison photo or a good subframe?
The car has H&R springs and is low. The shock insert is boge.
The new strut seems to be working out well. A lot of strange noises have disappeared - maybe due to the new strut bearing. The camber went from nasty positive to negative.
So - I don't know what to do if I have a strange problem here.
I'll be taking the other side apart as I have a inner boot problem there plus a bad bearing probably. steve
#7
Re: Are the axels designed to hit the subframe?
When it's jacked up it will touch. But if the axle was rubbing on the subframe while driving, you'd definately hear and feel it.
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#8
thats just from having the car jacked up and then rolling the wheel around as you
worked on it. If it was rolling like that the wear would be much worse and as Gary said, you'd hear it big time.
#9
Re: CSI
Well, yes, the subframe looks liek it has been wacked a bit.. But only on the side flange. THat may, or may not matter.
Perhaps look at the other side, and see if the suframe is the same distance from the body there, too? Compare the two sides, as it were.
If the car has been lowered, it'll be even farther from hitting the axel under normal driving conditions.
If you are driving the car hard enough to hit the axel, you'd be almost getting air, and you'd hear noise for sure!
Perhaps look at the other side, and see if the suframe is the same distance from the body there, too? Compare the two sides, as it were.
If the car has been lowered, it'll be even farther from hitting the axel under normal driving conditions.
If you are driving the car hard enough to hit the axel, you'd be almost getting air, and you'd hear noise for sure!
#10
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Guilty - I did jack it up and spin the wheel.
To track down that splash shield noise.
But still if I catch air like in all those famous Rally photos - it seems certain the axel will touch the subframe. I'd imagine that might put a load on the inner cv joint.
Um - the rally cars probably have extra ground clearance not lowered cars. I'll just make sure to keep my wheels on the ground.
steve
But still if I catch air like in all those famous Rally photos - it seems certain the axel will touch the subframe. I'd imagine that might put a load on the inner cv joint.
Um - the rally cars probably have extra ground clearance not lowered cars. I'll just make sure to keep my wheels on the ground.
steve