Ball joint is going in. Do I still have to be cautious?
#1
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Ball joint is going in. Do I still have to be cautious?
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/balljointalmostin.jpg"></center><p>
Well the ball joint is halfway in the strut housing. I'm cautious there are still pitfalls ahead. Can I apply full up force with the jack so hopefully it will just pop in - or is it possible to pop it in too far so that the horizontal bolt won't go in?
So far I've been pampering it, applying jack pressure and alternating wacks from the front and back side with a hammer against a wood block to wiggle it in.
Maybe I need to loosen the 2 ball joint bolts again.
Any tips would be appreciated.
Well the ball joint is halfway in the strut housing. I'm cautious there are still pitfalls ahead. Can I apply full up force with the jack so hopefully it will just pop in - or is it possible to pop it in too far so that the horizontal bolt won't go in?
So far I've been pampering it, applying jack pressure and alternating wacks from the front and back side with a hammer against a wood block to wiggle it in.
Maybe I need to loosen the 2 ball joint bolts again.
Any tips would be appreciated.
#2
A little bit cautious..
I find it all goes better if you get the ball joint 'tip' is square to the hole it's going in, so the groove doesn't hang up. (just tap the hub gently outwards a bit, and the tip should square up).
In you picture, it looks a bit crooked (and trying to hang up on the groove!)
Maybe have someone push/pull the strut, while you see what's happening. Or just pull the balljoint out, realign, and start over again. Easy to do..
Balljoint should go in realativly easy, once everything is aligned. A thump with the hammer and it should just pop into place.
Once it DOES go in, don't worry about the groove being it too far, as it's easy to move the balljoint in and out the last little bit.
However, DO make sure that the bolt you use DOES catch the groove, enought to keep the balljoint from coming out. I've found that different bolts can fit in the hole ok, but have different shank diamaters. Not all bolts hook the groove! (If using factory replacement, probably OK. If using a 'previous owner' bolt, I'd check!)
Don't want a balljoint coming out (BTDT). Thought I had a flat, and good thing I was going slow when it happened!
Bolt was still in place (although, probably loose). Jacked up the car (4kq), reassembled everything, and good to go again..
In you picture, it looks a bit crooked (and trying to hang up on the groove!)
Maybe have someone push/pull the strut, while you see what's happening. Or just pull the balljoint out, realign, and start over again. Easy to do..
Balljoint should go in realativly easy, once everything is aligned. A thump with the hammer and it should just pop into place.
Once it DOES go in, don't worry about the groove being it too far, as it's easy to move the balljoint in and out the last little bit.
However, DO make sure that the bolt you use DOES catch the groove, enought to keep the balljoint from coming out. I've found that different bolts can fit in the hole ok, but have different shank diamaters. Not all bolts hook the groove! (If using factory replacement, probably OK. If using a 'previous owner' bolt, I'd check!)
Don't want a balljoint coming out (BTDT). Thought I had a flat, and good thing I was going slow when it happened!
Bolt was still in place (although, probably loose). Jacked up the car (4kq), reassembled everything, and good to go again..
#4
just curious, but from your last post the strut wasn't going in "far" enough for the ball joint
to line up, now it's in farther than the joint. What was the reason it was staying out before and giving you so much trouble?
#5
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Confidence made the difference.
Tightening the axle nut may have helped. I loosen the ball joint bolts, I loosend the bolt on the strut bushing. Then I just got rougher, pushed harder. Perhaps that pushed the axel more into the inner CV joint. Since nobody said I was doing anything wrong - I justed upped the muscle.
#6
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Frank - I have it inserted quite a bit - I don't think any kind of aim adjustment is possible.
I seems to be going in, just not easily. That makes some sense since it took standing on a big 6 footprybar to get it out. Going in is different because it's same ball joint but different strut.
I had read (urq list) that the NLA urq balljoints have a slightly larger shaft diameter than 4kq - maybe 17 vs 16mm. So if mine went in too easy I'd be thinking maybe the PO used a not perfect replacement. I did want to put a micrometer on to measure - but forgot
I had read (urq list) that the NLA urq balljoints have a slightly larger shaft diameter than 4kq - maybe 17 vs 16mm. So if mine went in too easy I'd be thinking maybe the PO used a not perfect replacement. I did want to put a micrometer on to measure - but forgot
#7
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It's all done - I just used more force.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/37382/bjbacktogether.jpg"></center><p>I just lubed it and put the jack under the ball joint and cranked in some lift.
Audi hardware also. These self-locking bolts had a 5/8" head - same as the old hardware. I guess the old hardware was OEM.
I guess it's self-locking nut because it has the built in washer - more friction.
Audi hardware also. These self-locking bolts had a 5/8" head - same as the old hardware. I guess the old hardware was OEM.
I guess it's self-locking nut because it has the built in washer - more friction.
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