gmbchef

Guys-



After tooling around on Saturday for a spell, heavy on the boost, I let the car cool down by idling a few minutes. When I went to start it up Sunday morning, it would hardly crank over. I thought maybe I left on the dome light, so I hooked up my battery charger. After 15 min or so, I tried it. Same thing, very slow cranking, voltage gauge dropped all the way to zero and the starter is making funny sounds. I just had it rebuilt last August, and up until now it spun nice and fast and quiet.

Is it possible I fried it??



Gary

awdaudi

did you check the battery itself?.....the alternator? Is the charger a booster or just a charger?

gmbchef

The battery sits now at 12 volts. The alternator was putting out 13.25 volts at the battery.

The charger? Hmm...had it for years and never had issues with it.

urqisgood

I would try a known good battery first, volts are not everything

awdaudi

did you check the ground wire for continuity? i had the clamp crack and it was making intermittent contact and causing my jeep to crank one minute, and not the next. Ironically the same thing just happened to a 20v.org list member on Friday of last week.

gmbchef

Turns out it was the starter. I had the battery checked out and could not find fault with any grounds. Yanked that bitch out, discovered the cold start wire had fallen off....hence the disgruntled neighbbors...put the new one in...tightened up the cold start wire connector....1 1/2 seconds of cranking and it started right up. It sounds like a new car cranking now. BUT....long warm start cranking. Oh, we all know it never ends.

rally4s

Make sure you have URQUATTRO starter - from solenoid you have wire sending back signal to start injector for fuel enrichment during warm starts. This is how the warm stars problem was solved on never type of cars like 84 and 85. For year 1983 Audi had small retrofit kit.

gmbchef

Any starter/solenoid from any VW/Audi with a cold start valve will work. It does not necessarily have to be URQUATTRO specific.

rally4s

Wrong, check schematics ! Solonoid must have two wiers to it, one in delivering 12 V from ignition switch and one out delivering 12V or ground from strter (do not remember exactly) for few seconds to cold strt injector to minimise "hot start" problems.

Katman

Ok, any 'VW' starter with 2 wires shuld work.

One wire is the 'make the starter crank' 12V input.

The 2nd terminal output goes live when the solenoid pulls in (in other words, when cranking). That means that the cold start valve should only spray when the motor is cranking, instead of when the key is turned to start (which you could do electically almost as easy).

That's so you don't endup filling the motor with fuel (if the starter was borked).

Now if you have converted to MC ecu, doesn't matter if the starter has two terminals or not, as in that case the ECU controls the cold start injector.