Oil Air Seperator Works

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Old 10-08-2007, 05:42 AM
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Default Oil Air Seperator Works

After 30 minutes of driving I have barely a teaspoon of oil and water in the catch can.
And that stuff is so crappy I wouldn't want that running back into my engine. Its definately more watery than the rest of the oil so the seperator did a good job of letting the heavier oil drain back while vapor and condensate goes to the catch and condenses in there. Only vapor escapes out the catch can as there was no oil around the catch or on the radiator.

And Im also proud to say my engine's valve cover is no longer leaking after heli-coiling the head. So no more oil leaks in the engine at all. Its as clean as a whistle.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/quattro/msgs/19448.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/quattro/msgs/19448.phtml</a</li></ul>
Old 10-09-2007, 01:41 AM
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Default nice James.. You happy with the check valve?

Where did you get the catchcan from(the m20 that you refered to??)

I need to do a setup simular to this.. I will try this week. I have seen a setup close to the same thing as yours, but he tapped the back of the valve cover, near the spot for the dist.. Any thoughts on why that wouldnt be ideal, or why you didnt go that route. I am thinking about taping my distrib plug that the IIc allows, and venting it off that... what do you think?

Thanks for the help, and congrats on the success

Hank
Old 10-09-2007, 05:13 AM
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Default Its actaully a flap valve. Lots of pictures..

An AN-10 Flap Valve. I got it from Baker precision. I think its an Earls Flap Valve. 100% metal parts inside. Takes hardly any effort for it to open and since I'm draining back into the oilpan it will open up with a very small column of oil on top. Works well.

The M20 oil seperator knock off, I built. Its the thing bolted to the firewall with all the cylinders inside, concentric to one another. About 30 bucks of material from Online metals amd welding up aluminum. The catch can is an off the shelf standard US catch can...
Here is a cutaway of an M20
<img src="http://airwolf.com/images/AirOilSepM-20_Sect.jpg"> I went ahead and used AN fittings on all 3 points and ran the oil drain off the side instead of the bottom so it vectors towards my catch can. I also made more room between the outer and middle shell and baffled that with coarse steel wool. I also brought the inlet in tangentially to the outer cylinder so that I get the incoming oil rotating in a descending spiral. The filter between the inner cylinder and the middle cylinder, I used cleaned grey pad. The middle cylinder on mine comes 1" from the bottom.

If you look closely, the back of my valve cover already has a standard factory tap there with a 5/8" dia turned down beaded tube. I still have it. That is what I am using to connect to the engine breather (the ball on the side of the block). I didnt use that because I found that particular spot gets alot of sploshing oil. I tried it there, but alot of liquid gets sent that way. So based on many other cars and the 10V trans am car, and the 10V magnesium rally cover that I have from a trans am which has a threaded tap in the rocker cover with an aluminum backing plate as a deflector. I got my instruction. So I took some lessons from the 10V transam car setup. Tap in the top dead center of the rocker cover and use a deflector plate. The 10V has the deflector bolted in with 4 bolts. I welded mine to the ribs on the underside. The deflector Helps tremendously. Alot like the oil deflector for the oil cap, must have it otherwise oil goes everywhere.
<img src="http://www.bufkinengineering.com/Transamintake.jpg">

I think you could run off the dizzy, I left my dizzy cap and rotor on there, but pulled the drive gear.

I also got this email from Gary Midwinter, he's got some splosh issues on his S1. "for your info i just found out from lehmann that if running
solid lifters you can restrict the oil to the head and it stops all the
problems with blowby on the head breather , my works engine is done by
fitting tiny plugs to the oil feeds in cam carrier then drilling them out
.6 mm but we are going to fit restrictor in block where head gasket is and
drill it 1.8mm as advised by lehmann this mod is somthing you might want to
do whae you next have the head off ,regards gary "
Old 10-09-2007, 10:30 AM
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Default Re: Its actaully a flap valve. Lots of pictures..

cool James, I appriciate the help, and the great ideas!.. That is an interesting idea on the restricters on the head.. But who am I to question, i am sure they would know better!!

Hank
Old 10-10-2007, 05:15 AM
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Default Yeah

I personally am not keen on restricting oil to the head even with solid lifters. Lehmann says it can be done, but I would argue its better to work out a more efficient vent system than restrict oil to the head.
Old 10-10-2007, 01:49 PM
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Default That was my thought as well.. but to each their own..

back to the drain, a know that a lot of guys use floats in the catch can, with a evac pump to get it out when the float rises... thus always emptyin the can... I know you said the said teaspoon of oil was garbage, and you didnt want it in the motor, but is this the reason you didnt go that route?

Hank
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