Beyond 1,500 miles, is breaking-in routine necessary? or doesn't matter
#1
Beyond 1,500 miles, is breaking-in routine necessary? or doesn't matter
It was most recommended to drive hard within audi's spec during breaking-in period. As the engine doesn't fully broken in until 15,000 or so, is it necessary to push the car between 1,500 and 15,000?
#3
The manual says nothing about running the car hard during break in. Carry on though.
Here's a thought though - if running the car hard was a good idea, why would all the engineers who helped create the owner's manual, indicate a more conservative method? If there was no sound reason to take the steps outlined in the manual, why even waste the ink and paper?
And how about breaking in the gearbox and differentials? Something rarely mentioned in manuals except for trucks - where towing under load is not recommended during break in.
Our highest mile car is at around 267K miles, sees redline every time the oil warms up thoroughly, visits the racetrack a few times a year, uses no oil to speak of (1/4 qt between 5000 mi changes), has an even 180 psi/2% leakdown across all cylinders, and was broken in very carefully using a conservative method.
Now you may not be planning to keep the car that long and I won't turn this into a debate, but it's something to ponder.
And how about breaking in the gearbox and differentials? Something rarely mentioned in manuals except for trucks - where towing under load is not recommended during break in.
Our highest mile car is at around 267K miles, sees redline every time the oil warms up thoroughly, visits the racetrack a few times a year, uses no oil to speak of (1/4 qt between 5000 mi changes), has an even 180 psi/2% leakdown across all cylinders, and was broken in very carefully using a conservative method.
Now you may not be planning to keep the car that long and I won't turn this into a debate, but it's something to ponder.
#6
thanks *wink*
funny, no one noticed I still haven't replaced the lower front spoiler. dealer has the part on order, and I think they might foot the bill...or at least part of it.
#7
you could be right.
I just used this method based on my previous tuner's recommendations. I had good experience with this method in my Integra Type R and my 330i, so I just stay with it. I could be wrong.
My tuner specialized in tuning NA 4 cylinder engines and he breaks in his rebuilt blueprinted engines by running 1/4 miles with dino oil.
His record was running a daily driven high fuel efficiecy 1.8L 4 cylinder NA engine for 12.58sec at 1/4 miles.
This is his website:
http://www.sgt-racing.com/
Again, it's a 4 cylinder, not 8.
My tuner specialized in tuning NA 4 cylinder engines and he breaks in his rebuilt blueprinted engines by running 1/4 miles with dino oil.
His record was running a daily driven high fuel efficiecy 1.8L 4 cylinder NA engine for 12.58sec at 1/4 miles.
This is his website:
http://www.sgt-racing.com/
Again, it's a 4 cylinder, not 8.
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#8
Depends what you want. Race cars are to be broken in and making full power quickly
but get rebuilt every season or maybe more. Blueprinting also tends to make breaking in periods shorter.
In any case, time will tell which method creates an RS4 engine that produces full power over a longer period.
In any case, time will tell which method creates an RS4 engine that produces full power over a longer period.
#10
what you said reaffirm my decision...
"Race cars are to be broken in and making full power quickly"
Exactly what I wanted to hear and I don't keep cars more than 3 years or beyond warranty period.
Exactly what I wanted to hear and I don't keep cars more than 3 years or beyond warranty period.