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De-flapping how-to guide (long)

 
Old 01-25-2009, 09:31 PM
  #11  
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Bob's suggestion for moving the headlight definitely helps
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:34 PM
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Default I've found a ton of useful information on this forum

Hell, I wouldn't have even attempted this without others trying it first. Let's just say that this guide is my contribution to the pool of knowledge we've created here.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:35 PM
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Good suggestion, I'll add this to v2
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:39 PM
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Default I wonder how your results compare to Bob's

Maybe there is a difference between the 07 and 08 models?

I got my VAG-COM last month but haven't done much with it yet. How did you go about determining that your flap was working properly?
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:40 PM
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I'll add your suggestion to v2 - your method is much easier
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:19 AM
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Default Thought about heat issue

If the horn takes the air from the hot engine apartment, can't you just run a tube/pipe to the horn from somewhere in the front where you can get cold air?

This is why I haven't deflapped yet, my car runs hot as it is, especially after the chip-tuning.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:53 AM
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Nice write up! I'll be putting it to good use shortly.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:57 AM
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So did you decide to become un-horny like Bob W.?
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:44 AM
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Default what results do you mean? as far as the power flap check...

In VAGCOM (I don't have my laptop with me, so bear with me) on the main page, click the upper left? button to get to the page where you select the various modules you can communicate with. Then select the "Drivetrain" tab, then select the "Engine I" tab. Just to the right of the "Advanced measuring block" tab is the tab you want - its called "Operating Check" or "Oper Test" or something like that. The ignition of course has to be on, with the engine off. You'll want to have the laptop out by the engine if you're by yourself. The testing has to be done shortly after the engine was running to be sure there is enough vacuum in the reservoir to operate any actuators. There are several actuators that can be tested, including several relays, the exhaust flaps, the intake manifold flaps, the fuel injectors an the electric switch controlling the power flap in the air box which is called the "Intake Air switch over valve". You can't pick which one to test, it just goes thru all of them sequentially. I believe the switch over valve is the third or fourth one. The operation test simply cycles the actuator several times as soon as you press "start" and then stops when ever you press "stop", it then automatically cycles to the next actuator. You'll want to have the air inlet runner that goes from the top of the airbox to the front of the car off so that you can look down into the air box with a flashlight to watch the flap open and close. The intake runner flap actuator is the 5th or 6th one that can be tested. Its pretty easy to see when those are cycling. If you do actually go so far as to cycle some of the injectors, remember to start the car when you're done with the testing because you'll want to get rid of the extra fuel you just let into those cylinders.

Getting back to the results you were referring to. Do you mean my silverSpeed intake mod? That mod was a little more invasive than removing a plastic flap from the airbox
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:57 AM
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Default Static test

Although useful for catastrophic failure diagnosis, doesn't checking the intake flap in your garage with the engine off only prove that it works in your garage with the engine off? How would you ever know if it's working (or failing) when you actually need the thing to work?
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