Front Brake Job (Pads and Rotors)
02-20-2008, 09:33 AM
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Front Brake Job (Pads and Rotors)
I just completed a front brake job. It was a relitivly straight foward job for me. I would be willing to post instructions on here if anyone else is interested. Let me know.
02-20-2008, 11:32 AM
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Instructions
ยท Remove wheel bolt caps (I found using a paint can opener and a flat head screwdriver works best to pop them off), and loosen wheel bolts.
ยท Remove cap on brake fluid reservoir. If fluid level is near top, use a syringe or other suitable tool to take some fluid off the top, when depressing brake pistons, this could overflow.
ยท Jack up one side of car at marked jacking point near front. (This is denoted by an arrow on the underside of trim under car, one front and one rear)
ยท Remove wheel bolts and wheel
ยท There are two pins on the posterior aspect of the caliper that hold clips in place. They are held in by friction. Using a punch or other suitable tool, tap them out towards the center of the car. Once fully removed, the clips can be lifted out of place.
ยท Insert two flat-headed screwdrivers in between the rotor and the pads from the rear of the caliper. Using slow and even pressure, depress brake pistons with the pad in place using the rotor as a fulcrum. Once loose, remove the pad. There are two on each side of the rotor.
ยท Only one pad (inside upper) has a brake pad wear sensor. There is a connection behind the rotor. This can be a little tricky to undo. There is a release tab on the square part going to the car. Depress that tab and pull away. The round portion (going to the brake pad) of the connector is secured to a bracket with a tab with a nipple on it. The nipple must be lifted out of the dimple in the bracket and turned 90 degrees (in ether direction) to be removed. Once the cable is disconnected and removed from the bracket, that pad can be removed using the above procedure.
ยท Once all pads are removed, you can now remove the brake caliper. There are two 21mm bolts on the backside of the rotor. These are quite securely tightened. I suggest the use of a breaker bar and a socket, as most ratchets of sufficient size will be too bulky to fit in the tight location. Loosen and remove these bolts being sure to support the caliper so it will not fall down. Once the bolts are removed, use something to support the caliper (I used an old tackle box, it worked perfect). DO NOT ALLOW THE CALIPER TO HANG VIA THE BRAKE LINE!
ยท The rotor is now fully exposed and ready to be removed. There is a number 30 torx screw holding the caliper in place. Remove this screw. The caliper may be stuck in place due to rust. Use penetrating oil such as WD 40 and allow time to sit (10-20 mins). If rotor is still stuck, use a rubber mallet or hammer with a block of wood to protect rotor and tap it free (one of mine was quite stubborn but as with any tough nut, lube it and beat it, repeat as needed).
ยท If it is stubborn, I suggest using steel wool and WD 40 to remove any surface rust present. Consider using anti-seize paste between rotor and hub to make process easier in the future.
ยท Hold new rotor in place and reattach number 30 torx screw. Make sure wheel bolt holes are lined up.
ยท Reattach rotor with 21mm bolts. I don't know the torque specs, but they do need to be quite tight! I don't know of any torque wrench that would be able to fit in that tight of space anyway.
ยท If you are like me, you have mild OCD and will take this opportunity to clean all parts removed. I also put anti-seize paste on the pins that hold the pads and clips in place to make removal easier nest time.
ยท Install new brake pads. Install one at a time. You will probably need to make sure the pistons are fully retracted into the caliper. There are two per pad. Use a flat-headed screw driver on each depressing the both at the same time using the rotor as a fulcrum. Be careful not to damage the rotor surface or brake pistons. Progressive even pressure is the key here. Repeat times four pads per rotor.
ยท Replace clips and pins over pads. Make sure pin is fully seated by tapping into place with a hammer from the back side of the caliper.
ยท Reattach brake pad wear sensor cable in reverse order of removal from above.
ยท Reinstall wheel and wheel bolts, lower car and re-torque to specs (130 Nm, if I remember correctly).
ยท Replace any missing brake fluid and re-secure cap on fluid reservoir. Start car and pump brakes to build pressure back in brake system before driving. New brakes and rotors will need to be broken in before optimal braking can occur. I did several stops from 60 mph with enough force to cause the ABS system to engage. Then I performed several normal stops and found them to be working properly.
ยท Please remember this is a DIY project. This is my experience and is intended to be used only as antidotal help to anyone deciding to undertake this project. Remember, I am NOT a mechanic.
ยท If you need any further assistance, feel free to post a message on here and I will get back to you ASAP. Hope you find this info useful.
ยท Remove cap on brake fluid reservoir. If fluid level is near top, use a syringe or other suitable tool to take some fluid off the top, when depressing brake pistons, this could overflow.
ยท Jack up one side of car at marked jacking point near front. (This is denoted by an arrow on the underside of trim under car, one front and one rear)
ยท Remove wheel bolts and wheel
ยท There are two pins on the posterior aspect of the caliper that hold clips in place. They are held in by friction. Using a punch or other suitable tool, tap them out towards the center of the car. Once fully removed, the clips can be lifted out of place.
ยท Insert two flat-headed screwdrivers in between the rotor and the pads from the rear of the caliper. Using slow and even pressure, depress brake pistons with the pad in place using the rotor as a fulcrum. Once loose, remove the pad. There are two on each side of the rotor.
ยท Only one pad (inside upper) has a brake pad wear sensor. There is a connection behind the rotor. This can be a little tricky to undo. There is a release tab on the square part going to the car. Depress that tab and pull away. The round portion (going to the brake pad) of the connector is secured to a bracket with a tab with a nipple on it. The nipple must be lifted out of the dimple in the bracket and turned 90 degrees (in ether direction) to be removed. Once the cable is disconnected and removed from the bracket, that pad can be removed using the above procedure.
ยท Once all pads are removed, you can now remove the brake caliper. There are two 21mm bolts on the backside of the rotor. These are quite securely tightened. I suggest the use of a breaker bar and a socket, as most ratchets of sufficient size will be too bulky to fit in the tight location. Loosen and remove these bolts being sure to support the caliper so it will not fall down. Once the bolts are removed, use something to support the caliper (I used an old tackle box, it worked perfect). DO NOT ALLOW THE CALIPER TO HANG VIA THE BRAKE LINE!
ยท The rotor is now fully exposed and ready to be removed. There is a number 30 torx screw holding the caliper in place. Remove this screw. The caliper may be stuck in place due to rust. Use penetrating oil such as WD 40 and allow time to sit (10-20 mins). If rotor is still stuck, use a rubber mallet or hammer with a block of wood to protect rotor and tap it free (one of mine was quite stubborn but as with any tough nut, lube it and beat it, repeat as needed).
ยท If it is stubborn, I suggest using steel wool and WD 40 to remove any surface rust present. Consider using anti-seize paste between rotor and hub to make process easier in the future.
ยท Hold new rotor in place and reattach number 30 torx screw. Make sure wheel bolt holes are lined up.
ยท Reattach rotor with 21mm bolts. I don't know the torque specs, but they do need to be quite tight! I don't know of any torque wrench that would be able to fit in that tight of space anyway.
ยท If you are like me, you have mild OCD and will take this opportunity to clean all parts removed. I also put anti-seize paste on the pins that hold the pads and clips in place to make removal easier nest time.
ยท Install new brake pads. Install one at a time. You will probably need to make sure the pistons are fully retracted into the caliper. There are two per pad. Use a flat-headed screw driver on each depressing the both at the same time using the rotor as a fulcrum. Be careful not to damage the rotor surface or brake pistons. Progressive even pressure is the key here. Repeat times four pads per rotor.
ยท Replace clips and pins over pads. Make sure pin is fully seated by tapping into place with a hammer from the back side of the caliper.
ยท Reattach brake pad wear sensor cable in reverse order of removal from above.
ยท Reinstall wheel and wheel bolts, lower car and re-torque to specs (130 Nm, if I remember correctly).
ยท Replace any missing brake fluid and re-secure cap on fluid reservoir. Start car and pump brakes to build pressure back in brake system before driving. New brakes and rotors will need to be broken in before optimal braking can occur. I did several stops from 60 mph with enough force to cause the ABS system to engage. Then I performed several normal stops and found them to be working properly.
ยท Please remember this is a DIY project. This is my experience and is intended to be used only as antidotal help to anyone deciding to undertake this project. Remember, I am NOT a mechanic.
ยท If you need any further assistance, feel free to post a message on here and I will get back to you ASAP. Hope you find this info useful.
02-20-2008, 11:38 AM
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Re: Front Brake Job (Pads and Rotors)
Sorry, I didnt take any pictures other then before and after. My camara hates greasy hands...
If you get stuck, shoot me a message. I'm usually here daily.
If you get stuck, shoot me a message. I'm usually here daily.
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02-20-2008, 11:53 AM
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Slight edit: (1) there's a wheel bolt cap remover in the trunk (with other tools)
Those must be a bitch to take off w/ a screw driver.
Thank you very much for much for taking the time w/ the instructions. Serious details.
Thank you very much for much for taking the time w/ the instructions. Serious details.