absolutcq20v

Changed over mgleahy's pads yesterday; it was about as simple as it gets. I didn't see any writeups, prolly because one really isn't necessary, but alas...

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1806.jpg">

Just tap the two pins toward the inside of the caliper with a suitable drift and mallet...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1807.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1809.jpg">
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1810.jpg">
At this point, I reset the pistons with a pair of channel lock pliers and a shop rag to protect the paint finish...just drab the edge of the pad backing plate and apply steady pressure until they're all the way in...and watch for fluid overflowing from the reservoir.

Unplug the wear sender harness and remove it from the bracket by rotating 90 degrees and slip it out...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1811.jpg">

The pins, H-clips, and old pads removed...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1812.jpg">

8-pistons...excellent...
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/13357/img_1813.jpg">

Install is the reverse of removal, don't forget to reset the pistons by pumping the brake pedal a few times before pulling off the lift and out of the garage. :P

Have fun at VIR, Mike. Bring back marbles. :P

larryV

you can afford to be a little more careful and not chip the finish on the purty calipers

what did you use to bang the pins out? a screwdriver?

jk, I know, they're just brakes.

S4iowa

I'd guess he didn't do that

firewired

kind of makes me wonder why my local dealer charged me about $1800. How much were the pads?

larryV

Sounds like they got you on the labor, which to be honest isn't a very difficult job. Swapping the pads alone takes 10 minutes, and swapping the rotors takes more effort but also isn't too difficult.

cgthanos

Thank you very much for the thoughtful writeup and pictures.

I hope to do this soon, but am confused about one aspect:

"At this point, I reset the pistons with a pair of channel lock pliers and a shop rag to protect the paint finish...just drab the edge of the pad backing plate and apply steady pressure until they're all the way in...and watch for fluid overflowing from the reservoir."

Would you mind elaborating on this from a true novice point of view, e.g. what does "reset the pistons" mean in this case (I can guess but want to be sure), and if I see fluid overflow, does that warrant fluid replacement? Does this result from going to fast during the piston reset?

Please excuse the probably obvious questions, but I really want to do this and I do not want to pay the ~600-800 the dealer is asking for in labor.

Big Hank

Are you guys applying anti-squeal to your pads at installation?

absolutcq20v

Allen socket I had handy, they only need to go about an inch, then can be wiggled out by hand.

absolutcq20v

As the old pads wear down, the pistons need to come out of the calipers further. You can't slide new (thicker) pads in unless you push the pistons back inside the calipers.
Overflow can occur from the reservoir as fluid is pushed from behind the pistons, through the lines, and back into the reservoir...regardless of how fast you push them back. One way to avoid is to remove the res. cap and little filter cup (if so equipped...with some needle-nose pliers) and somehow remove some of the fluid from the reservoir (turkey baster?)...just don't get it on the painted surfaces, as it will strip paint clean off.
Only need to replace and flush the brake fluid is if the reservoir level gets too low and air gets into the lines. Oh, and I replace brake fluid as a maint. item every few years...as it gradually absorbs moisture, reducing the boiling point (very bad, especially if you track or drive hard), and can accelerate corrosion (rust) of the lines and other components.
Hope that helps. Speed safely!

absolutcq20v

Of course, they were race pads...so I'm sure they made a lot of noise anyway. :P