Lidatek installation ideas inside
10-15-2006, 06:21 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Lidatek installation ideas inside
This is a technical howto post for doityourselfers. It's not intended to be step-by-step instructions, but rather a collection of ideas for reference.
I do my racing on the track but still prefer hardwired V1's and Lidateks in my three vehicles (BMW 330xi, Caddy SRX V8 AWD, B7 RS4). I also had both in my now-sold M5, and all were self-installed. I attribute no tickets in 24 years to counter measures and safe driving.
The Lidatek installation in the B7 RS4 took about 2 hours - a rather long install compared to the V1 hardwire at 5 minutes. Don't attempt this if you aren't completely confidant and comfortable working with hand tools and electricity on your expensive Audi.
The single transponder was positioned in the center of the lowest slot in the front air dam using the two-sided industrial adhesive tape. A higher mount would've been better, but there's no place to put it higher and still be unobstructed without cutting a rectangular slot out of the grill, which IMO would look bad. Here is the transponder in the lower airdam:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/trans.jpg">
There's at least a couple of options to get the transponder wire into the cabin. In the center of the firewall (near the cabin filter) there's three feed-through grommets that might be useful, but once inside the cabin, I didn't want to hassle with getting that wire over to the fusebox near the driver's door. I opted to feed the wire into the cabin through the ECU box which is open to the cabin. For that, you need to remove both wiper arms which allows removal of the plastic shrouds, exposing the 5 torx screws that hold on the ECU cover. I cut a small hole in the rubber boot on the front side and pulled the wire through using a fish (thin brazing rod) lubed with dielectric grease. The entry point was then sealed with black silicone adhesive:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/feed1.jpg">
The control unit was attached using the two-sided tape to the vertical sheetmetal panel behind the fusebox cover (drivers side). 12V power came from the fuse panel. Ground is attached to the screw that holds on the hush panel behind the fuse cover. Sure it looks sloppy, but everything is easily viewable and accessible including the fuse, and once you put the fusebox cover back on, nobody sees it anyway:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/ctrl1.jpg">
The multi-color LED was placed in the plastic panel above the steering wheel column. The panel pulls straight out rather easily:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/led.jpg">
The speaker (beeper) was attached to the bottom of the light switch pointing downward, using the double-sided tape.
The toggle switch was placed in the hush panel next to the hood release. The Lidatek powers up with the ignition switch, but this toggle switch is optional in case you ever want to go totally stealth:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/switch.jpg">
Sure, better ways and techniques will come along. Hopefully people can use these ideas to perfect their own install.
Keywords: Lidatek feedthrough firewall transponder lidar laser 12V ground
I do my racing on the track but still prefer hardwired V1's and Lidateks in my three vehicles (BMW 330xi, Caddy SRX V8 AWD, B7 RS4). I also had both in my now-sold M5, and all were self-installed. I attribute no tickets in 24 years to counter measures and safe driving.
The Lidatek installation in the B7 RS4 took about 2 hours - a rather long install compared to the V1 hardwire at 5 minutes. Don't attempt this if you aren't completely confidant and comfortable working with hand tools and electricity on your expensive Audi.
The single transponder was positioned in the center of the lowest slot in the front air dam using the two-sided industrial adhesive tape. A higher mount would've been better, but there's no place to put it higher and still be unobstructed without cutting a rectangular slot out of the grill, which IMO would look bad. Here is the transponder in the lower airdam:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/trans.jpg">
There's at least a couple of options to get the transponder wire into the cabin. In the center of the firewall (near the cabin filter) there's three feed-through grommets that might be useful, but once inside the cabin, I didn't want to hassle with getting that wire over to the fusebox near the driver's door. I opted to feed the wire into the cabin through the ECU box which is open to the cabin. For that, you need to remove both wiper arms which allows removal of the plastic shrouds, exposing the 5 torx screws that hold on the ECU cover. I cut a small hole in the rubber boot on the front side and pulled the wire through using a fish (thin brazing rod) lubed with dielectric grease. The entry point was then sealed with black silicone adhesive:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/feed1.jpg">
The control unit was attached using the two-sided tape to the vertical sheetmetal panel behind the fusebox cover (drivers side). 12V power came from the fuse panel. Ground is attached to the screw that holds on the hush panel behind the fuse cover. Sure it looks sloppy, but everything is easily viewable and accessible including the fuse, and once you put the fusebox cover back on, nobody sees it anyway:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/ctrl1.jpg">
The multi-color LED was placed in the plastic panel above the steering wheel column. The panel pulls straight out rather easily:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/led.jpg">
The speaker (beeper) was attached to the bottom of the light switch pointing downward, using the double-sided tape.
The toggle switch was placed in the hush panel next to the hood release. The Lidatek powers up with the ignition switch, but this toggle switch is optional in case you ever want to go totally stealth:<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/switch.jpg">
Sure, better ways and techniques will come along. Hopefully people can use these ideas to perfect their own install.
Keywords: Lidatek feedthrough firewall transponder lidar laser 12V ground
10-15-2006, 06:14 PM
#3
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I think you're too low to the ground
Not to be picky and I know the choices on the grill for the fully exposed module are limited, however....
Most officers will not shoot that low. They will aim central-grill then headlights.
I was fortunate on my B6 S4 that Audi used the rectangular grill slots and the transponder unit fits perfectly.
I'm interested because I'm trading the S4 for and RS4 when my lease is up next year and have been contemplemplating the same issue.
I'm sure you have played around with installation points and even considered cutting a diagonal grill slat or two? Always an option, however I'd be hesitant too.
I don't have an alternative to suggest to get the units higher but I hope you're running a second unit or even the rear as a third if they're going to be placed that low. Good luck!
By the way, I ran across a radar detector forum that extensively covers laser jammers, placement, etc. These guys are super-geeks and have as much invested into anti-traffic-enforcement devices as we do cars. Sorry I don't recall the address.
Most officers will not shoot that low. They will aim central-grill then headlights.
I was fortunate on my B6 S4 that Audi used the rectangular grill slots and the transponder unit fits perfectly.
I'm interested because I'm trading the S4 for and RS4 when my lease is up next year and have been contemplemplating the same issue.
I'm sure you have played around with installation points and even considered cutting a diagonal grill slat or two? Always an option, however I'd be hesitant too.
I don't have an alternative to suggest to get the units higher but I hope you're running a second unit or even the rear as a third if they're going to be placed that low. Good luck!
By the way, I ran across a radar detector forum that extensively covers laser jammers, placement, etc. These guys are super-geeks and have as much invested into anti-traffic-enforcement devices as we do cars. Sorry I don't recall the address.
10-15-2006, 06:27 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Agreed, but not willing to hack the grill...
Eventually someone will come up with a better solution. In the mean time, I'm hoping for a cop with lousy aim. Also might try some VEIL.
The site you mention is maybe:<ul><li><a href="http://www.guysoflidar.com/">www.guysoflidar.com</a></li></ul>
The site you mention is maybe:<ul><li><a href="http://www.guysoflidar.com/">www.guysoflidar.com</a></li></ul>
10-16-2006, 04:08 PM
#6
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Don't want to sound like a nagging hack, but reconsider VEIL
We sound like we're in the same boat, trying all of the anti-police interventions.
I bought the pricey jar of it and put it on both my Cayman and S4. I cannot tell you how many people have come up and said how "dirty" "****ty" "ugly" it looks.
Key word..."looks". If you can get by the appearance, it's not bad and I can understand its functionality.
I tried several of the supplied brushes and even if you're lucky enough to get it not to run, it looks like you poured maple syrup over your jeweled headlights.
No real deterioration in illumination, it just is noticeably and chronically dirty looking. It would be fine if I was driving a 10 year old Honda, different story with my Cayman and S4
I bought the pricey jar of it and put it on both my Cayman and S4. I cannot tell you how many people have come up and said how "dirty" "****ty" "ugly" it looks.
Key word..."looks". If you can get by the appearance, it's not bad and I can understand its functionality.
I tried several of the supplied brushes and even if you're lucky enough to get it not to run, it looks like you poured maple syrup over your jeweled headlights.
No real deterioration in illumination, it just is noticeably and chronically dirty looking. It would be fine if I was driving a 10 year old Honda, different story with my Cayman and S4
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10-16-2006, 05:52 PM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Car went under the knife: Recovering nicely...
After much deliberation and research, I've narrowed the Lidatek transponder location dilemma down to two options:
Option 1) (not used) Two transponders located in the upper inside foglight airdam. The mesh is large enough to accommodate the transponders without cutting. But I'm too cheap to spring another $200 for a second transponder, especially when Lidatek claims one properly located transponder in the front is adequate.
Option 2) Hack the grill and use a single transponder. This is what I did:
Two tiny pieces of grill were removed:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0002_small.1.jpg">
The transponder under the 4 rings:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0005_small.jpg">
It's not noticable unless you're extremely close and well lite:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0010small.jpg">
Thanks to kmklint for the constructive comments.
Option 1) (not used) Two transponders located in the upper inside foglight airdam. The mesh is large enough to accommodate the transponders without cutting. But I'm too cheap to spring another $200 for a second transponder, especially when Lidatek claims one properly located transponder in the front is adequate.
Option 2) Hack the grill and use a single transponder. This is what I did:
Two tiny pieces of grill were removed:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0002_small.1.jpg">
The transponder under the 4 rings:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0005_small.jpg">
It's not noticable unless you're extremely close and well lite:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/109574/dsc_0010small.jpg">
Thanks to kmklint for the constructive comments.
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