edwardschmedward

Hi Folks,

I picked up my car again, today. The software hasn't been modified yet, that happens next week.

The exhaust sounds great, much better than stock. I've been driving my 997S with full Fabspeed system all week, so I'm a bit jaded and won't gush over the sounds of the RS4. I don't really notice much in the way of improved power.
The throttle is responsive, which probably means it has more power.

The suspension is more predictable than the DRC. I might want stiffer springs though. It's a bit bouncy till it settles into the corner. I think I'd rather give up comfort, since it's already somewhat compromised, and go stiffer.

The short shift kit came from Stratmosphere (I think) and works well, it's a bit taller than the stock one, and that leaves a space between the stock shift **** and the small ring that it used to rest on that's under the leather boot.

By FAR the best mod out of all done on this car, was the one that was done first. That was the more aggressive alignment. I would have to ask Kip at FBL what his revised specs were, if someone were to ask... but the change in steering feel was dramatic, and made driving it a much greater experience.

HiRev

I'll ask, what was Kip's revised alignment specs?

edwardschmedward

I'll e-mail him and ask...it may take a while to hear back...busy boy.

Pete @ Stratmosphere

the height should be stock. Take 'er back to the shop and have them call us. -Pete, Stratmosphere

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

Coilovers installed but what else was done or changed? Sway bars, CPP upper links?

There is not much you can change in the alignment specs in these cars. In the front you can only adjust the TOE and in the back the TOE and CAMBER.

So unless you have modified the suspension components, I don't see how the alignment made such a big difference. IMHO, it is most likely a combination of the coilover install which would have lowered the car and changed the camber automatically (more negative) and perhaps the tech that aligned your car took the stock/standard OEM TOE IN specs and dialled it down to 0 degree. This would make the car turn in better and faster. The downside (not for me) is the car will not be as stable at high speeds.

It would be interesting to hear from the shop what alignment specs they set on your car.

JDBlueAudiS4

fubared the installs on his car for more then just the shifter.

abwc

I'm on the cusp of swapping out for stiffer springs, too, but this desire has more to do with the REAR springs than it does the front.

The front seems to be good, but the rear is where I am having trouble finding a happy setting.

If I may be so presumptuous as to ask, would you mind testing your setup with these settings and let us know what you think ?

4/5/10 (cans/front/rear)

I'm assuming you have the 750/1200 setup on the car now.

I won't say what I think here so I don't influence your perception; we can compare notes here later.

Make sure you include in your testing the condition where the car compresses all four corners simultaneously, as in a dip where the wavelength of the dip is at least as long as the wheelbase, compressing all four corners at once.

When you launch out of the dip, turn on those sensors in your *** and record what you feel.

Repeat the test with the rear set at 9, and then again with the rear set at 12.

For comparability of settings, HiRev and I are counting clicks as follows:

Dial rebound up to max. The pin bottoms out, making that last click only a partial click.

Back the adjuster out to the first detent.

This is zero.

Count clicks from there.

edwardschmedward

He won't share them.

edwardschmedward

I haven't even seen the damm things, where do you adjust them?

edwardschmedward

It's only off a .25 of an inch... I just notice this stuff.