Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

First let me explain that for every formula that Motul wants to get certified and pass the tests to meet a VAG standard it as to be tested by VAG on that particular motor. I assume this is the case for all car manufacturers too.

Multiply every formula by each standard and multiply it again by the each manufacturer. You can see this adds up quickly to very big amounts of money for the oil manufacturing company.


In the case of Motul every time they get a letter of approval for a formula/blend it cost them 2680 Euros. The letter is renewed every 3 years. However, this is chicken feed because when you consider that before they get the renewal letter with the same approval they earned 3 years prior they have to completely re do the actual testing on the motor.

Recently they got and oil approved by VAG to meet their VW 505.01 standard, the cost for that formula alone was 250,000 Euros! And they will have to repeat it in 3 years.

OK, so let's talk about the new X-Lite 0W30 that replaces the E-Tech 0W40. These oils are 100% synthetic and are Ester based. Because of the more stringent pollutions norms coming into effect in Europe, Motul decided to improve the 0W40 by replacing it with the new 0W30. You will see by the graphs (provided to me by Motul) where it falls within the whole scheme of things.

<b>First the approval letter/spec sheet for the X-Lite 0W30.</b>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/MotulOilX-Lite0W30-VAGStampofapprov.jpg" border="0">


<b>Now let's see how the new pollution norms affect the oils.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page1.jpg" border="0">


<b>We can see here that the 8100 line of oils is first broken up into two categories; the "low HTHS" and the "high HTHS". To meet the high HTHS an oil must keep a constant viscosity from 100 degrees C up to 150 degrees C.

The low HTHS are for LOW consumption/fuel ECOnomy with extended change intervals. All oil formulas falling within this group will be labelled ECO-???? Example: 8100 ECO-energy 5W30.

The high HTHS formulas are for HIGH protection, EXtended drain intervals. They will be labelled with an X-???? Example: 8100 X-cess 5W40.</b>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page2.jpg" border="0">


<B>Now we can see that the two categories (low and high HTHS) are subdivided further into several anti pollution categories. The older EURO 1 to 3 standards and the new EURO 4 standard.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page3.jpg" border="0">


<b>The first two formulas wee see here on this graph show one in the LOW HTHS category and one in the HIGH HTHS category. On the right you can see for which car manufacturer they are approved and which standard within a car manufacturer they are approved. In the case of VAG, these two blends meet only the VW 502.00 and VW 505.00 standards.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page4.jpg" border="0">


<b> Finally the new 8100 X-Lite 0w30 and where it sits. Well it's in the HIGH HTHS category so it offers a higher protection but it also sits close to the LOW HTHS so it also as improved fuel economy. It also sits close to the newer EURO 4 pollution norm so it is also less pollutant. It is also an extended drain interval oil and it not only meets the VW 502.00 and VW 505.00 standards but also gets the more stringent VW 503.01 rating. Because it uses a very complex blend of Ester based ingredients and draws some of the technology from the Double Ester V300 Competition oil, Motul as managed to make this oil very versatile.</B>


<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page6.jpg" border="0">


<B>The new 8100 X-Clean 5W40 meets the new EURO 4 norms and is also certified VW502.00 and VW 505.00.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page7.jpg" border="0">


<B>Here is how the jug is labelled.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page8.jpg" border="0">


<b>Here's another example of a EURO 4 oil. This one is not approved by VAG. However it is approved for Peugeots and Citroens</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page9.jpg" border="0">


<b>The C2 label on the jug.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page10.jpg" border="0">


<b>Check out the low 0W20 weight on this one (8100 Eco-Lite). For Honda, North America and Asian car makers. We might see some of the stuff here.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page11.jpg" border="0">


<B>Finally we made it to the C1 category. Good for Mazda and Ford Europe only.</B>

<img src="http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b79/mlab601/motul8100_page12.jpg" border="0">

Bob W. - undead

mon dieu...executive summary, please.

RS4-2007

Sacre bleu! So what oil will you be using and how often to change it?

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

If I run out then I'll switch to the new X-Lite 0W30.

In the summer I use the 5W40 300V Competition oil.

pistolgrip2

Question for you - I live in Chicago and am about to take delivery on an Ibis White RS4. Is there any merit in changing the factory oil before I begin the break in process or should I wait until I've got 5-6 hundred miles on the car. Winter seems to be arriving and obviously the next two months will be cold. I drive 40 miles (highway) round trip to work each day. thks...

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

However read the manual and talk to the service rep to see what the recommended break in procedure is. Some people change the original factory fill sooner than others, some wait longer.

Personally I would do a minimum of 1000 miles and possibly wait until the 2000 miles mark before changing the factory fill.

pistolgrip2

thanks for the imput, i've followed the discussions here on engine break in guidelines and synthetic oil types. i've been driving an 2004 B6S4 6MT for the last three yrs., so while the RS4 is different, the car isn't completely foreign to me... but the discussions here on getting the factory oil out have left me alittle concerned...

RI A6

and put in something like Motul in at that time. Then change again after factory break-in, around 2k to 2500 miles, and then again at your 5K service.

RI A6

It likes to dump fuel into the oil, which is a very bad thing for engine wear. The other Audi FSI engines also have a similar problem but they don't rev to 8250 rpm.

daveak05

That sounds about right...I've always changed out factory oil at 1500-2000 on any engine.

Hey, which 2 US aircraft were used as "Wild Weasles" in Vietnam? Know the answer? Without looking?