My first high perf driving course
10-12-2008, 10:01 AM
#1
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My first high perf driving course
Next wed, I am taking the RS4 to a high performance driving course. Never done this before. I am super excited.
Is there anything I should to do to prepare the RS4 for the track? Some people were saying using painter's tape to protect the paint?<ul><li><a href="http://www.proformanceracingschool.com/">http://www.proformanceracingschool.com/</a</li></ul>
Is there anything I should to do to prepare the RS4 for the track? Some people were saying using painter's tape to protect the paint?<ul><li><a href="http://www.proformanceracingschool.com/">http://www.proformanceracingschool.com/</a</li></ul>
10-12-2008, 11:48 AM
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Some thoughts...
I just attended my first a month ago - you'll have a blast.
- Be prepared to wear down tires and brake pads. Most of the regulars who use their daily drivers switch out for the track. I didn't consider beforehand and luckily had no major wear...
- Remove the plastic lug covers and wheel caps.
- Good idea to torque the lugs before each run. there should be plenty of regular's with tools to borrow.
- Be prepared to wear down tires and brake pads. Most of the regulars who use their daily drivers switch out for the track. I didn't consider beforehand and luckily had no major wear...
- Remove the plastic lug covers and wheel caps.
- Good idea to torque the lugs before each run. there should be plenty of regular's with tools to borrow.
10-12-2008, 03:34 PM
#3
Bring a good tire pressure gauge. Give the tires a few extra psi prior to starting, then
check immediately after each run session or maybe even during the session if things feel a bit odd to you. Check closely for unusual wear. When tires feel "greasy", it means they are a bit too hot. Too much turning, braking, or acceleration is pushing them outside their peak operating zone. Slow down a bit. Try adjusting pressures to see if it helps. I usually run a few psi less in the rears vs the fronts. The fronts get worked harder and carry more weight. But they can become over-inflated as they get hot.
Bring coolant, oil, and p/s fluid. Check after each run session.
All newbs use too much brakes. They go really fast in a straight line, then brake too long without using the full abilities of the brakes. That sends a lot of heat into the brakes. Unlike street driving where you are going for the absolute smoothest least perceptible application and release, on the track you try to brake late with the shortest possible time actually spent using the brakes. You are either off the brakes, or on the brakes. However, smoothness is still paramount to avoid upsetting the car - you will brake extremely hard in most cases, but it should be a smooth hard squeeze, then off. Not only is this the quickest way around a track, but it gives the brakes longer to cool between applications.
Weight transfer is the key to car control. Each tire has a traction budget. By accelerating, braking, or turning, you can increase or decrease the available grip or budget at each tire. Understanding what you can do to turn this to your advantage as well as what not to do, is what makes for smooth fast driving. It is the essence of all good driving on the track or street.
Keep your head up and your eyes looking down the track. You should be planing your next corner while you are finishing the one you are presently in. In some cases you plan several corners ahead. It also keeps you from having surprises with your fellow drivers and allows you to pay more attention to the flags. When you go down a straight, wiggle your fingers and remember to breath. Double check the flag status.
Cars that spin or skid, tend to go where the driver is looking. Never fixate on what you are trying to avoid. Look for the exit instead. Once you put a wheel off the track surface, never try to save things by steering back on the track at speed. That is how cars flip or get t-boned. If you go off, steer straight and brake. Then if possible, drive slowly to the edge of the track and join when it is safe to do so, or you are waved on by a corner worker. Pit at the first possible chance, so you can check for damage as well as rocks that might get between the rim and bead of the tire.
Smoothness is speed. Do not try to go fast at first. Try to go smoothly and build up good habits. The speed follows quickly. It's easier on you, the passengers, and the car too. The best drivers make it feel like you are driving in slow motion, as everything is happening smoothly - meanwhile you're going blazingly fast!
Oh, and drink lots of water. You won't be used to concentrating this hard, this long, let alone the physical stress. Remember that the hottest laps are almost never done at the start or end of a day, so when you are feeling like you are pushing yourself during that last run session, just dial it back a bit and work on fundamentals instead. I've seen plenty of folks 'go farming' as it were, during the first or last sessions;-)
Painter's tape tends to come off a bit easily. I use racer's tape, which has more stick, but you must remove it in a few days or the glue is a bear to remove.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/3127/a3-track.jpg">
Oh, and remember to not use the hand brake when you park in the pits! Stop, then turn off the car with it in gear. This prevents rotor warpage from hot spots on the rotor.
Bring coolant, oil, and p/s fluid. Check after each run session.
All newbs use too much brakes. They go really fast in a straight line, then brake too long without using the full abilities of the brakes. That sends a lot of heat into the brakes. Unlike street driving where you are going for the absolute smoothest least perceptible application and release, on the track you try to brake late with the shortest possible time actually spent using the brakes. You are either off the brakes, or on the brakes. However, smoothness is still paramount to avoid upsetting the car - you will brake extremely hard in most cases, but it should be a smooth hard squeeze, then off. Not only is this the quickest way around a track, but it gives the brakes longer to cool between applications.
Weight transfer is the key to car control. Each tire has a traction budget. By accelerating, braking, or turning, you can increase or decrease the available grip or budget at each tire. Understanding what you can do to turn this to your advantage as well as what not to do, is what makes for smooth fast driving. It is the essence of all good driving on the track or street.
Keep your head up and your eyes looking down the track. You should be planing your next corner while you are finishing the one you are presently in. In some cases you plan several corners ahead. It also keeps you from having surprises with your fellow drivers and allows you to pay more attention to the flags. When you go down a straight, wiggle your fingers and remember to breath. Double check the flag status.
Cars that spin or skid, tend to go where the driver is looking. Never fixate on what you are trying to avoid. Look for the exit instead. Once you put a wheel off the track surface, never try to save things by steering back on the track at speed. That is how cars flip or get t-boned. If you go off, steer straight and brake. Then if possible, drive slowly to the edge of the track and join when it is safe to do so, or you are waved on by a corner worker. Pit at the first possible chance, so you can check for damage as well as rocks that might get between the rim and bead of the tire.
Smoothness is speed. Do not try to go fast at first. Try to go smoothly and build up good habits. The speed follows quickly. It's easier on you, the passengers, and the car too. The best drivers make it feel like you are driving in slow motion, as everything is happening smoothly - meanwhile you're going blazingly fast!
Oh, and drink lots of water. You won't be used to concentrating this hard, this long, let alone the physical stress. Remember that the hottest laps are almost never done at the start or end of a day, so when you are feeling like you are pushing yourself during that last run session, just dial it back a bit and work on fundamentals instead. I've seen plenty of folks 'go farming' as it were, during the first or last sessions;-)
Painter's tape tends to come off a bit easily. I use racer's tape, which has more stick, but you must remove it in a few days or the glue is a bear to remove.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/3127/a3-track.jpg">
Oh, and remember to not use the hand brake when you park in the pits! Stop, then turn off the car with it in gear. This prevents rotor warpage from hot spots on the rotor.
10-12-2008, 08:31 PM
#4
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I wrote this like 8 years ago..some decent stuff in there...
Needs to be updated though...<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc9.shtml">https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc9.shtml</a</li></ul>
10-12-2008, 09:13 PM
#6
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What I learned recently
Make sure tires are good (as in >50%). Less than that, and they might not last 2 days of tracking.
RS4 brakes are great. They'll take any amount of abuse, as long as there's good pad left. Three weeks ago out at Infineon raceway, I tried to kill them, and couldn't.
Agree, check wheel bolt torque. Always use a torque wrench (no matter how experienced you think you are). Too little is bad (not enough stretch), and so is too much (over stretching will work harden the bolts). Never use any thread lube or anitseize. You will way overstretch the bolts.
Ditto having extra of all fluids, oil, G12+ coolant, distilled water, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid. Check them all beforehand.
Definitely try on the helmet while in the car beforehand. Set a memory button. Hand position is 9 and 3. You should be close enough to rotate the 9 hand all the way over to 3 while holding the wheel and vice versa. It's probably closer than you normally drive.
Taping up might help, but could also be more trouble than it's worth if the tape won't come off. Try it in an inconsipcuous place first for a day or 2, and see if comes off easily.
Ditto removing any extra stuff and/or weight.
Make sure you have your recovery loop available, hopefully you won't need it though. You don't want the tow driver hooking up to some random part.
No matter what you see on TV, leave the traction and stability control (ESP) on. It's your friend, and works well on the track.
I found that having sport mode OFF made me smoother and therefore faster. With it on, I was just too jerky on the throttle.
Ditto the parking brake thing. Don't use it just after track time.
Try to keep the tire wear even front/rear. Most people seem to like 40 ish when hot. Try to keep 2 or 3 psi more in the front, due to the extra weight, to keep the roll radius equal. With a type-III torsen center diff, the distribution is 40/60 (F/R) only if the two shafts spin at the same rate (not in a turn). When turning, the front shaft spins slightly faster, this causes the diff to split at it's bias ratio, which is 4 for the RS4. So in a turn the rear gets 80%. If the front wheels are even slightly larger (have a larger rolling radius than the rear), then the front gets 80% (until the turn is sharp enough) which is bad for handling.
Have a good tire gauge...where you can resolve at most 1 psi.
Have window cleaner and a towel.
Have lots of water.
RS4 brakes are great. They'll take any amount of abuse, as long as there's good pad left. Three weeks ago out at Infineon raceway, I tried to kill them, and couldn't.
Agree, check wheel bolt torque. Always use a torque wrench (no matter how experienced you think you are). Too little is bad (not enough stretch), and so is too much (over stretching will work harden the bolts). Never use any thread lube or anitseize. You will way overstretch the bolts.
Ditto having extra of all fluids, oil, G12+ coolant, distilled water, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid. Check them all beforehand.
Definitely try on the helmet while in the car beforehand. Set a memory button. Hand position is 9 and 3. You should be close enough to rotate the 9 hand all the way over to 3 while holding the wheel and vice versa. It's probably closer than you normally drive.
Taping up might help, but could also be more trouble than it's worth if the tape won't come off. Try it in an inconsipcuous place first for a day or 2, and see if comes off easily.
Ditto removing any extra stuff and/or weight.
Make sure you have your recovery loop available, hopefully you won't need it though. You don't want the tow driver hooking up to some random part.
No matter what you see on TV, leave the traction and stability control (ESP) on. It's your friend, and works well on the track.
I found that having sport mode OFF made me smoother and therefore faster. With it on, I was just too jerky on the throttle.
Ditto the parking brake thing. Don't use it just after track time.
Try to keep the tire wear even front/rear. Most people seem to like 40 ish when hot. Try to keep 2 or 3 psi more in the front, due to the extra weight, to keep the roll radius equal. With a type-III torsen center diff, the distribution is 40/60 (F/R) only if the two shafts spin at the same rate (not in a turn). When turning, the front shaft spins slightly faster, this causes the diff to split at it's bias ratio, which is 4 for the RS4. So in a turn the rear gets 80%. If the front wheels are even slightly larger (have a larger rolling radius than the rear), then the front gets 80% (until the turn is sharp enough) which is bad for handling.
Have a good tire gauge...where you can resolve at most 1 psi.
Have window cleaner and a towel.
Have lots of water.
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10-13-2008, 04:09 AM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Hot tire pressures...42# seems the optimum. You may want to have the rear pressures...
slightly higher (+2 or 3) to help rotation. Fronts shouldn't be lower than 42# HOT. This'll give you a 'slightly larger' footprint in the front for more grip to overcome the inherent understeer.
Otherwise, get ready for an exhiharating day or two in a car that was made for high performance because you can't do this on public roads legally. Guaranteed you'll be "hooked".
Otherwise, get ready for an exhiharating day or two in a car that was made for high performance because you can't do this on public roads legally. Guaranteed you'll be "hooked".
10-13-2008, 08:43 AM
#9
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Great list - only other thing i'd add...
Remember that you're going to have to take everything out of your car, including mats, etc - if you bring anything in your car to the track, you'll need somewhere to stow everything and keep it dry in case of rain. I bring a pair of large clear plastic bins from the container store (cheap).