Need a couple tips...
#1
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Need a couple tips...
Im dropping my 08 RS4 at the dealership tonight so than can take a look at all the suspension parts. I've been hearing some clunking noise on my daily commute. Sometimes the car drives fine and makes no sound at all and other times it's quite noticable. I've already had one of the "senior" mechanics at my local dealer go for a ride with me. Of course, I couldn't replicate the sound and they thought I was crazy. Nobody there has even heard of the faulty DRC in the rs models.
Which brings me to my point. What should I have them look at? The shocks to make sure they're not leaking. The Valves? What else? While it's up there I want everything checked. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Which brings me to my point. What should I have them look at? The shocks to make sure they're not leaking. The Valves? What else? While it's up there I want everything checked. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#2
They will need to raise the car up to check for visible leaks on the shocks...
make SURE they do that. Just going for a ride with a tech will likely bring the dreaded 'functions normally' or 'unable to reproduce' response, so make sure they actually look at the car from underneath.
They will also need to pressure-test the system, and there's a tool they use to check the valves to make sure it's above a certain bar. If it's not, then there's a leak, and the shocks and valves will need to be replaced. Make sure they order the shocks ending in 'B' - those are the newest versions and supposedly have a better seal.
The clunking can be any number of things, from bad bushings (control arm, upper strut mount, etc) to the actual shocks making the noise, to the valves (in back, near the spare tire well) clacking open and shut and making all sorts of commotion due to the lack of fluid, or pressure, or both in the system. It's something that you'll want to go directly to the service manager, in my opinion, just to cut through all the BS. If you have a good relationship with your SA, perhaps casually suggesting to him to bring in the SM would be a wise move.
It takes about three days to get the parts in, and another day or two to do the job, depending on what needs to be replaced. Good luck!
-Matt
They will also need to pressure-test the system, and there's a tool they use to check the valves to make sure it's above a certain bar. If it's not, then there's a leak, and the shocks and valves will need to be replaced. Make sure they order the shocks ending in 'B' - those are the newest versions and supposedly have a better seal.
The clunking can be any number of things, from bad bushings (control arm, upper strut mount, etc) to the actual shocks making the noise, to the valves (in back, near the spare tire well) clacking open and shut and making all sorts of commotion due to the lack of fluid, or pressure, or both in the system. It's something that you'll want to go directly to the service manager, in my opinion, just to cut through all the BS. If you have a good relationship with your SA, perhaps casually suggesting to him to bring in the SM would be a wise move.
It takes about three days to get the parts in, and another day or two to do the job, depending on what needs to be replaced. Good luck!
-Matt
#3
Same issue, read on below...
My car is going in for service today. Here is the note I wrote to the service technician Is your problem worse when it's cold? Will keep you posted.
***************
Note to service technician:
The clunking noise was not very loud this morning. Upon monitoring the issue over the last few weeks (ever since I got the car back from the last service when I first reported the issue), I have realized that the noise is very prevalent at very cold temperatures and gradually disappears as the car warms up. As an example, at cold temperatures, I get a lot of very bad clunking on my way to work in the morning. After my car has spent the day in my heated garage at work, I do not notice the issue when I go back home. I therefore suspect that you might not hear it since my car has been inside for a few hours.
When I last reported this, I was told that there were no leaks in the DRC and that everything appeared fine. I am not a technician but still suspect that this has to do with the DRC system, more particularly with the fact that the pressure in the system might be lower than required (which would explain why the noises are there in cold temperatures - which one would expect result in additional pressure drop and clunking).
If you cannot notice the noise, please leave the car outside overnight and drive it in the morning.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
***************
Note to service technician:
The clunking noise was not very loud this morning. Upon monitoring the issue over the last few weeks (ever since I got the car back from the last service when I first reported the issue), I have realized that the noise is very prevalent at very cold temperatures and gradually disappears as the car warms up. As an example, at cold temperatures, I get a lot of very bad clunking on my way to work in the morning. After my car has spent the day in my heated garage at work, I do not notice the issue when I go back home. I therefore suspect that you might not hear it since my car has been inside for a few hours.
When I last reported this, I was told that there were no leaks in the DRC and that everything appeared fine. I am not a technician but still suspect that this has to do with the DRC system, more particularly with the fact that the pressure in the system might be lower than required (which would explain why the noises are there in cold temperatures - which one would expect result in additional pressure drop and clunking).
If you cannot notice the noise, please leave the car outside overnight and drive it in the morning.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
#4
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You may be in luck
If the dealer hasn't heard about DRC issues, they may not have paid attention to the TSB about how 'sweating' shocks are 'normal'. Are your shocks leaking at all? You may be in a good position there...
#5
+1, just as Matt said. Have them do this procedure:
1. Check all shocks for visible leaks (try not to look convinced if and when they tell you they just look like they are perspiring which is normal)
2. Have them check the pressure at all 4 corners. Anything below specs is a sign that most likely one or both of your central accumulators (or valves in layman terms) are at fault. It is a cross diagonal setup, i.e. each valve is linked to a front to rear shock configuration in opposing sides (ie. on 2 different axles and on 2 diff sides). Basically in an "X" configuration.
3. Have them check other suspension components (tie rods, bushings, control arms), even exhaust mounts/brackets, though at this stage I am willing to bet my 4 freshly installed DRC shocks that the clunking is not from that! LOL
As far as noise replication in front of the dealer, in my case I could easily replicate it going over a school speed hump at anything over 3/5mph (not that I normally do, but this was best way to show them).
2. Have them check the pressure at all 4 corners. Anything below specs is a sign that most likely one or both of your central accumulators (or valves in layman terms) are at fault. It is a cross diagonal setup, i.e. each valve is linked to a front to rear shock configuration in opposing sides (ie. on 2 different axles and on 2 diff sides). Basically in an "X" configuration.
3. Have them check other suspension components (tie rods, bushings, control arms), even exhaust mounts/brackets, though at this stage I am willing to bet my 4 freshly installed DRC shocks that the clunking is not from that! LOL
As far as noise replication in front of the dealer, in my case I could easily replicate it going over a school speed hump at anything over 3/5mph (not that I normally do, but this was best way to show them).
#7
My DRC update - may help
I just picked my car up tonight from a dealer inspection of the DRC. They did the pressure test and found that the shocks needed to be replaced. I asked if they would replace them with 'B' parts (new). My rep didn't know what was ordered, but asked that I send her the info on the parts and she would follow up. I copied some of the info from the recent DRC posts to help them out. Their experience with DRC issues has been mainly on RS6's due to the low number of RS4's in town.
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#8
Re: If your dealer is unaware of DRC issues, they probably can't fix them.
When I first went in to my dealership with a DRC problem, the dealer was also "unaware" of this issue which I thought/still think it was bull**** but they did replace it as it was leaking...so who knows.
#9
I was allegedly only the 2nd occurence when I experience DRC issues the first time
Hard to believe, but dealer claimed he had to pay $2K for a special tool, so if that is the case maybe I was among the first (which begs the question how did they do the 1st car).
The newly installed 2 fronts ended up failing immediately, and my guess (which I still support) was that it was an install issue and/or incomplete check of the system (level of fluid, proper drain, refill, vacuum, and pressurization).
I had my 4 shocks replaced since then along with the 2 valves, but in the mean time they have had at least 2, most like 3 RS4s in for DRC failures so at this stage I would think they have enough 'seat time' behind their belt to do it right.
So my advice is: go to a dealer that has done this before. If they think replacing a leaking shock is all they need to do, they I am pretty sure you will be back for more repaiirs in a hurry. The install and proper servicing is complex, and if the dealer thinks this is little different than say an S4 shock replacement, you will have repeated headaches.
Worth travelling a longer distance to another dealer that has done this before than the closest guy who didn't even know this problem exists in the first place...
The newly installed 2 fronts ended up failing immediately, and my guess (which I still support) was that it was an install issue and/or incomplete check of the system (level of fluid, proper drain, refill, vacuum, and pressurization).
I had my 4 shocks replaced since then along with the 2 valves, but in the mean time they have had at least 2, most like 3 RS4s in for DRC failures so at this stage I would think they have enough 'seat time' behind their belt to do it right.
So my advice is: go to a dealer that has done this before. If they think replacing a leaking shock is all they need to do, they I am pretty sure you will be back for more repaiirs in a hurry. The install and proper servicing is complex, and if the dealer thinks this is little different than say an S4 shock replacement, you will have repeated headaches.
Worth travelling a longer distance to another dealer that has done this before than the closest guy who didn't even know this problem exists in the first place...
#10
Alternatively, get on the phone with AofA
and get them to get their regional rep in to fix your car.
The obligation is not on us as owners of Audi's halo car. We do not need to drive all over God's creation to find a mechanic who can fix this system.
The obligation is on Audi of America to fix our cars the first time at the dealer from which we purchased our vehicle. If Audi needs to fly Hans and Franz in from Ingolstadt to fix our car, that is their problem, not ours.
The obligation is not on us as owners of Audi's halo car. We do not need to drive all over God's creation to find a mechanic who can fix this system.
The obligation is on Audi of America to fix our cars the first time at the dealer from which we purchased our vehicle. If Audi needs to fly Hans and Franz in from Ingolstadt to fix our car, that is their problem, not ours.