Oil, Oil change, Floor mats, & Cleaning Rims
#1
Oil, Oil change, Floor mats, & Cleaning Rims
(1)Dealer told me the factory is using Castol 5w 40 (Thought it was Mobil).
(2)I see some are changing oil at 600 miles. Yes or no or wait till after break in.
(3)Looking for set of rubber or other floor mats.
(4)Bad brake dust. Any cleaner ideas or different pads that are better without degrading performance.
(2)I see some are changing oil at 600 miles. Yes or no or wait till after break in.
(3)Looking for set of rubber or other floor mats.
(4)Bad brake dust. Any cleaner ideas or different pads that are better without degrading performance.
#2
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Answers...
Audi Sport All Season Floor Mats are the best you can get IMO
I'm not sure if Carbotech is selling pads for the RS4 yet, but there Bobcats performed a little better then my stock B6 S4 pads with a lot less brake dust
As far as oil questions, there are many people on here that are more knowledgeable then me
I'm not sure if Carbotech is selling pads for the RS4 yet, but there Bobcats performed a little better then my stock B6 S4 pads with a lot less brake dust
As far as oil questions, there are many people on here that are more knowledgeable then me
#6
Is the factory oil really trashed at 600 miles?...
I know you had done an analysis of yours around that time, and felt that it was pretty bad off. But, is replacement oil at each oil change holding up any better under same conditions after 600 miles?
This revving to redline, full throttle, and rapid decel has got to wreak havoc with any oil...the shear, fuel dilution, heat, etc. Any lubricant and engine is going to be put under stress doing that, IMO.
This revving to redline, full throttle, and rapid decel has got to wreak havoc with any oil...the shear, fuel dilution, heat, etc. Any lubricant and engine is going to be put under stress doing that, IMO.
#7
A 1500 mile change makes sense to me.
After having looked at over 20 oil samples now from various RS4s, I'd say that the factory oil does not do much worse than any other oil, with exception of being lower viscosity after the shear. It's about the same with fuel dilution and wear, with fuel dilution being the big problem increasing iron and copper wear. I think any oil would be trashed in much the same way in this engine when new.
There's just a lot of metal in the oil even at 600 miles, which is why I'd get rid of it right after the break-in period is over at 1500, and before doing many WOT runs. My guess is that the real benefit of changing the oil out is removal of the fuel diluted oil, which I believe is one of the reasons for excessive oil consumption early on. As the flashpoint lowers, more oil vaporizes and burns off.
There's just a lot of metal in the oil even at 600 miles, which is why I'd get rid of it right after the break-in period is over at 1500, and before doing many WOT runs. My guess is that the real benefit of changing the oil out is removal of the fuel diluted oil, which I believe is one of the reasons for excessive oil consumption early on. As the flashpoint lowers, more oil vaporizes and burns off.
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