Mickf29

Car goes in the shop Monday morning, they are replacing the passenger side wheels and mirror (didn't know this, the mirror comes unpainted!)and doing some paint work on the back fender flare and bumper. Also having them do a wheel alignment since they took a decent impact. Total cost is not so bad, $3100. Lucky there was no body damage other than paint scrapes. When it comes back I will take it up to fix the clear bra that got rolled off. Will have to wait about a month for this, need to let the new paint outgas.

So while I was bored this week I deflapped the intake air box, nice noticiable difference at 3-5k rpm, sounds great too! I am going to get out and do the exhaust flaps this afternoon as well.

Anyone do the short shift kit? Percentage wise how much throw is reduced and how smooth is it compared to stock?

Whats up with the after market differential stiffener advertised? I don't notice driveline shock in my RS, not like I had in my S4, so don't really know if this is going to do anything. Anyone try it and have positive experience or is it snakeoil for the RS4?

BTW I am looking for 2 used RS4 19" OEM rims, slightly scuffed or chipped, not cracked or bent. Gonna take my old dinged rims plus the 2 I buy used and get them refinished, maybe done in a black anodize or something. nice to have a spare set to goof off with. Anyone has one or two they are selling let me know.

Mickf29

Wow, what a nice tone change! I don't notice any significant change in throttle response or power, I think I got all of that on the intake deflap the other day. But sure does sound wicked! Went to Starbucks to test it out, had some guy driving an M5 in the drive through checking it out as I started it up.

Definitly has that little gurgle sound now on a good rev wind down. Deeper cab resonating sound as well. Super nice, not obnoxious. Thanks to those that posted the instructions on here on ths intake and exhaust deflaps!

dr. leases

do you have any links to exhaust and intake work? thank you..my searching isnt that good

Mickf29

I kind of followed these instructions, but I didn't remove the bumper:

https://forums.audiworld.com/rs4b7/msgs/52262.phtml

I went in on top, removed the upper intake pipe, removed the top of the box by removing the clamp near the sensor in the pipe. Flipped this on top of the manifold still attached to the top of the air box. Then removed the filter. Wow, found sand in the bottom of the box, was surprised to see this. Well maybe not, I live in the desert.

I cut the tape on the vac lines holding to the standoffs on the lower box, and flipped the line up and over as well. Next remove the anchor for the lower box half, but be careful to hold on to the plastic back piece, don't let it fall down, that would suck.

I then removed the line going into the front of the lower box, not sure how I got that stupid ring clip off without breaking it, just used a screwdriver and wiggled, it popped off. Went back on much easier, Once the lower half was out, i took out the flap and horn, clamped the vac line. I have not noticed a temp rise vs with flap like some reported, drove around a bit @ 80mph and seemed to stay right around 202. Of course I think ambient here is about 60degs. Cooler than what some were testing at. I am seriously thinking about finding a way to port of the opening in the box down to the front grill, but I need to seriously think about this because I don't want to "ramjet" water into the box when it is raining. Another option could be running it up and to a scoop in the hood or something. Don't want to mod the hood though. I dunno, need to think about it some more. If I don't see a heat issue next summer when it is routinely 100degs, I won't do anything.

I read GMG was making a cold air box, any news on this recently?

Mickf29

I can't find the instructions I once had on here, not sure who posted them, but it is quite easy. I bought a few sizes of pin stock, 2" long. Wasn't sure what the inside tube diameter was, but I settled on 5/32" diameter pins. I cut the vac line about 3" from the valve, left the clamp from audi on that end of the line. I pushed one pin into the hanging line, slid up a tube clamp and tightened down hard. I then put another clamp over the other end of the line just to get it in place, the took the loose line with the pin protruding and pushed into the other line. Then moved up the second clamp and tightened it down. Repeat for otehr side of car. Very easy, takes literally 15mins. Sounds fantastic!

Mickf29

OK, this is unscientific of course, but thought it was reasonable information. I just went out and ran around the loop freeways here in Tri-Cities. Some of you may know them, generally flat, one decent hill on I-182 into Richland from I-82. Here are my observations with outside air temp at 69deg F in 6th gear:

80mph flat, ~3100 rpm: 210-212 deg oil temp
80mph up slight incline, ~3100 rpm: 210-214 deg oil temp
70mph flat, ~2900rpm: 208-210 deg oil temp
60mph flat, ~2700rpm: 205-207 deg oil temp
60mph up slight incline: 207 deg oil temp

Overall this is about 5 degrees warmer than the "normal" that I have noticed before the mod. However I never actaully paid this close attention prior, just was used to seeing 198 to 208 on a regular basis in this weather.

Now here is where it gets interesting:

I decided to take it on the city streets and cruise 40mph in 3rd and 4th gear, and I noticed a marked upswing in the temp. Peak was 218degs when cruising 3rd at 40mph, I think maybe 3400rpm, long flat road no lights to stop and start for several miles. I used to only see 204degs around the city before.

This is really pushing me to think up a way to get cold air into the engine now. Anyone have any experience modding this? I may jump on this next weekend, if time permits.

MrBucket

I do have 2 OEM wheels that could use a refinishing that I'm not using, send me an email

Mickf29

Email sent, send me a couple pics and lets talk

Mickf29

Hope to hear back soon on their plans to do a cold air box, deflapped, see if there is anything to the rumor. Will post the response.

ghoonk

I'm planning to snip the original ones, and keep a spare set for when I need to swap it back to stock