Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

First today I had to put the <b>MTM injectors</b> on the machine to figure out their flow rate to see in they were sufficient for the new engine package... They are not, we need a minimum of 550cc and the <b>MTMs just flowed 400cc</b>.

Second I stopped at a truck weighing station just to see where the car's weight is at after all the work we did to it. I'm glad to report that the car <b>weighs less now than it did before the roll cage went in</b>. I don't know how accurate the scale was but I will get it weighed properly once the diet is complete. For now it weighed in at <b>2970 lbs</b>.

<b>Now back to my announcement...</b>

Well I decided to pull the trigger!

As you know I decided to go for a 3076R with the Tial S/S housing, a TiAL external wastegate and a TiAL BOV. Also I am changing my FMIC and now going to a Setrab core. This means new end tanks need to be made and a complete revamp of the intercooler plumbing to fit the new turbo in its new location. Piping will go from 2 inches at the turbo's outlet and increase to 2 1/4 inches into the I/C. From the I/C's outlet it will be 2 3/4 inches and increase to 3 inches just prior to the TB.

Also since I'm going with the SM4 standalone and will be switching to drive by cable we decided to switch to a VR6 TB because it is bigger than the DBW B6 TB. This leaves me room for further expansion in the future (AEB head).

Once the new tubular exhaust manifold, downpipe, wastegate piping the I/C piping and new FMIC are built/test fitted to the car they will be removed. Why you say?

Because we are pulling the motor out! At first I was going to get an engine refresh (although I was changing the rods) but now I decided to go for it!

Yes I'm going for the <b>2.0l conversion</b>. So the engine will be bored out and a new AEG 2.0l crankshaft is going in to stroke it. <b>Supertech Inconel</b> exhaust valves are going in too. We have decided on <b>Scat forged rods</b> (hope everyone is happy with this choice). We are also going to use <b>coated bearings</b>.

Now the choice of pistons is interesting and I'm sure some of you are going to be surprised by it. I don't want arguments about it I have made my choice for good reasons. Please read the technical note on the pros and cons of these pistons at the end of this post.

So we decided on <b>CP forged pistons</b> but instead of the <b>4032 alloy</b> built pistons we went for the <b>2618 alloy</b> built pistons because of their superior tensile strength and fatigue endurance over the 4032 alloy pistons.

Now before the motor is assembled with all the new parts, it will be crated and shipped to a race engine builder/tuner in Virginia where it is going to be taken completely apart. All components will be cleaned in special "washing machines". All parts old and new are going to be inspected. The block receives deck, bore/hone/line hone with billet deck plate. New crank will be inspected, mic'd, balanced, polished. They will quality check the new rods and pistons. The cylinder head is inspected for valve guide/parts wear and receives performance valve job (Inconel), surfaced as needed, valvetrain setup to spec. Everything is blueprint/clearanced. Then final clean and assemble timed, longblock.

To get the power down to the wheels I'm going to have to upgrade the clutch components. Well for this I went with our friends at <b>DTH</b>. We decided on the multi disk single mass LWFW from <b>Clutch Masters</b>, the <b>FX600</b>. However the "regular FX600 from Clutch Masters comes with an aluminium billet flywheel and again I decided to go with Mike's recommendation and use the <b>DTH specially commissioned steel billet flywheel version</b> of the FX600, thanks Mike.

Finally and this one is the icing on the cake... The shop I'm dealing with has an <b>engine dyno</b>. So my <b>new 2.0l will be broken in, tested and finely tuned on their engine dyno</b>. No more guessing as to how much power at the crank my motor will produce we are going to know for sure now. Later on when the motor is back in the car I will get some chassis dyno numbers, (Dynapak, Mustang and MAHA) and that should give us a pretty good look at drivetrain loss on three types of chassis dyno.

There you go folks that the bulk of it. Work may start next week on the exhaust manifold and FMIC. I'll be busy posting updates for sure. I don't think we will be shipping the motor until after the New Year.

<b>ARTICLE ON 4032 vs 2618 ALLOYS (pros and cons)...</b>

Forged pistons, barring unique manufacturer's
specifications, generally use two aluminium alloys,
which are 4032 and 2618. Typical recommended
applications are as follows: 4032 is a durable and
lighter material usually used in naturally aspirated
engines. 2618 Alloy is designed for the rigors of
blown, marine, and nitrous applications.

4032 pistons will have quieter cold start operations
due to their tighter piston to wall clearances
compared to 2618 pistons. This is due to the 15%
greater thermal expansion seen in the 2618 alloy. 15%
may seem l vs a lot, but do the math. Considering a
piston to bore clearance of 2/1000's of an inch, 15%
is only .0003". Once the pistons have reached their
operating temperature, the noise (piston slap)
differences should be nearly identical in volume
between the two alloys. 4032 pistons will have reduced
oil consumption and longer ring life compared to their
2618 cousins due to their better cold start
tolerances. While to many these physical comparisons
point towards 4032, you must understand that 2618
pistons, for their slight "defects", are clearly
superior in terms of tensile strength and fatigue
endurance to 4032. This is why most piston
manufacturers specify the 2618 alloy for use in highly modified turbocharged engines.

April

No factory warranty anymore for you sir! ;-)

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

Well I can assure you there is nothing to break anyway.

Bob W.

those kick ***....I had a set on an old stroker VW Type I motor...never had a problem with the bottom end (wish I could say the same about the heads).

did you also consider Pauter's titanium rods? Pricey I'm sure, but supposedly 33% lighter than 4340. Their 4340 rods are really good too.

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

Although the Scats are very good and many people have told me they should be a good choice for my power range there are still some voices out there that say go either with Pauter or Crower rods which ultimately are better and can sustain a lot more power than the Scats. I could always go Carrillo too but where do I stop? When does it become just overkill?

However the "peace of mind" factor does way in a lot in this equation.

For sure as it stands now the "Scats" are the weakest link in the engine built at this point.

ScratchRob13

Scats will not be a weak link.

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

I may go for Crowers or Pauters.

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

Bob I asked about the Titanium rods and they are about $500 to $600 each!

ScratchRob13

If you are building it I would hope you would have the whole lower end balanced anyways.

As far a strength, no worries

Jet Jockey/A4 Pilot

You name it, It's getting it (blue print and all).