Quick easy fix for broken glove box door
06-05-2012, 05:33 PM
#21
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OK, my glove box door hinge broke on the right side, and I see from googling all the audi forums that this is not an uncommon failure.
I have devised a fix that doesn't require removing the whole glove box. Some of you may not like the inelegance of the solution, so those of you shouldn't do it.
As always, no guarantees, you're on your own if your car explodes or you die.
First, snap off the side panel as instructed here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160782&
I also removed the strut and disassembled it as explained in that post. I put some light grease inside to make it less stiff.
The first photo shows my broken glove box.
The second photo shows the screw I bought at the hardware store, a self-tapping screw made for concrete use. A pack of 3 was about $2.
The third photo shows where to drill a hole. You drill a 3/16 diameter hole through the glove box door and all the way through the hinge. The hole is about 5/8 to 3/4 from the bottom edge of the door. The hole wants to line up side-to-side with the left slot in the hinge (shown with the yellow arrow).
The fourth photo shows the drilling process. You need to reach in the side and hold the hinge in position so it doesn't flip back while you are drilling. Extend the drill bit as far as you can in your drill, you need to drill about 3" deep.
The fifth photo shows a trial installation. The screw cuts thread in the plastic.
I have devised a fix that doesn't require removing the whole glove box. Some of you may not like the inelegance of the solution, so those of you shouldn't do it.
As always, no guarantees, you're on your own if your car explodes or you die.
First, snap off the side panel as instructed here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160782&
I also removed the strut and disassembled it as explained in that post. I put some light grease inside to make it less stiff.
The first photo shows my broken glove box.
The second photo shows the screw I bought at the hardware store, a self-tapping screw made for concrete use. A pack of 3 was about $2.
The third photo shows where to drill a hole. You drill a 3/16 diameter hole through the glove box door and all the way through the hinge. The hole is about 5/8 to 3/4 from the bottom edge of the door. The hole wants to line up side-to-side with the left slot in the hinge (shown with the yellow arrow).
The fourth photo shows the drilling process. You need to reach in the side and hold the hinge in position so it doesn't flip back while you are drilling. Extend the drill bit as far as you can in your drill, you need to drill about 3" deep.
The fifth photo shows a trial installation. The screw cuts thread in the plastic.
thanks
06-12-2012, 05:54 AM
#24
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06-21-2012, 06:31 PM
#25
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The door is removed by pulling out the two steel hinge pins. The pins are grooved for a tool. The pins are press-fit into the plastic pretty firmly. I think it's actually easier to remove the entire glove box assembly from the car - 9 screws and unplug the connector for the foot well lamp. The door will stay with it, and can then be removed on a workbench.
06-21-2012, 06:41 PM
#26
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I'm a product designer, and I can tell you that after looking at my broken hinge very carefully, it's one of the dumbest design abortions I've ever seen. An IDIOT designed this and a MORON approved it. The hinge is extremely weak. If one were to deliberately design it to break, this is how it would be done. It's hard to say if the additional replacement glove box door sales outweigh the price of lost customers.
The center console hinge is another complete design fail. A hole at the highest-stress area of the hinge? Really?
This sort of thing makes me nervous about the design of other parts of the car.
The center console hinge is another complete design fail. A hole at the highest-stress area of the hinge? Really?
This sort of thing makes me nervous about the design of other parts of the car.
06-21-2012, 07:08 PM
#27
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How's the quick fix holding up? I need to fix the door myself.
On getting the pin out, you either grab it with some vicegrips and twist and turn while tapping on the vicegrips with a hammer, or you find something that will claw the pin and you tap with a hammer. I have not pulled mine out, but this is what I read from the other forums.
On getting the pin out, you either grab it with some vicegrips and twist and turn while tapping on the vicegrips with a hammer, or you find something that will claw the pin and you tap with a hammer. I have not pulled mine out, but this is what I read from the other forums.
02-13-2013, 12:20 PM
#28
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Your fix looks good to me. The dealer said that the Glove Box Assembly is the lowest level they provide. He will install it, with parts and labor, for only $1217. My 2005 looks very good and has 44,000 miles, but it doesn't make sense to put this much into a $10,000 car.
01-08-2015, 03:37 AM
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I'm a product designer, and I can tell you that after looking at my broken hinge very carefully, it's one of the dumbest design abortions I've ever seen. An IDIOT designed this and a MORON approved it. The hinge is extremely weak. If one were to deliberately design it to break, this is how it would be done. It's hard to say if the additional replacement glove box door sales outweigh the price of lost customers.
The center console hinge is another complete design fail. A hole at the highest-stress area of the hinge? Really?
This sort of thing makes me nervous about the design of other parts of the car.
The center console hinge is another complete design fail. A hole at the highest-stress area of the hinge? Really?
This sort of thing makes me nervous about the design of other parts of the car.
Apparently it's common there to design and build a solid, long lasting, precise, and well made machine (in most all industries, not just automotive ) but include enough "weak" parts or nuisance pieces to support future parts sales and service.
I'm actually planning on going the way of using a steel bracket that attaches from the back or inside so that is not visible when closed.