m444

Back in the 1970s when I had a small block Chevy and 4 speed, I had this problem of not disengaging with a worn diaphragm clutch .

From Hot Rod Magazine: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/drivetrain/hrdp_1005_new_disc_clutch_system_news/viewall.html
""The diaphragm plate's Belleville spring has a nonlinear force curve-beyond the initial pedal tip-in point, the force required to continue depressing the pedal doesn't increase at the same rate as the load does. This characteristic makes for a much smoother actuating linkage with reasonable pedal effort, but with OEM-style flat diaphragm fingers, the pedal could go over center and stick to the floor under full-throttle at high rpm, especially if the clutch had excess travel and/or the freeplay was incorrectly adjusted.""

tritone75

had audi install new clutch and I got the car back yesterday. Was 3200 including tax after negotiating. Staring problem is def gone, car feels great.

iNfiNkC

Im having a similar problem, but i find it hard to think its the clutch, but after reading your thread i dont know.

Sometimes i have to press the clutch pedal down really far to get the car to crank over. Wouldnt only the switch need adjusting? I dont see how a worn clutch could prevent the car from starting.

Did they give you your old clutch to look at for wear?

tritone75

I argued with them for months over it NOT being the clutch, but some other mechanism. I explained that my clutch was not worn, didn't slip under load, pedal was fine, etc. They told me that the clutch sort of self adjusts so that the more you wear it you don't really feel it not working properly. The pedal just gets a bit stiffer, but nothing noticeably wrong. The even went against Audi protocol and changed my master cylinder because there is a switch on it that they suspected to be failing. wasn't the case. ALSO keep in mind I bought my car used with 20K on it, so I had no idea how the guy before me drove it and wore it. Most douches can't really drive a manual....even if they say they can.
I agreed for the new clutch and its a world of difference. The car doesn't perform any better, but the pedal more responsive and it has a quicker engagement point. Time will tell i guess, and audi says they are backing that parts (to a degree, since it is a wear item) and they are 100% confident that this was the root of the starting problem.
I asked to see my clutch and they showed me but its in this massive housing so I couldn't see the disk separately. couldn't determine wear with the eye.

Tweakophyte

Were there any other indication of a problem, or just the starting issue?

I ask because every so often I feel a kind of wobble in the clutch engagement when I start in 1st. There is never any slip or burnt clutch smell, just a subtle wobble.

tritone75

i have never had any sort of mechanical issue with the clutch other than having to push it trough the carpet to start it. I know how frustrating this is for you.

kepstein

I am having the same problem on my 2011 S4 with 54K. I complained about difficulty starting the car; dash display telling me to depress the clutch pedal, clutch operating fine.

Natick Bernardi Audi claims it needs a new clutch for $4300. Audi of America supports Bernardi agreement to knock 13% off of parts or $305 off of total job. I am now reaching out to Audi of America, executive officers. I have owned 5 Audi's; 2 manuals. I am very brand loyal. I owned only Saab's prior to Audi, but if of Audi of America doesn't help me, this is the last Audi that I will own.

Regards,
Ken

westwest888

You simply need a new clutch. You don't need one from them. I had my clutch done for $880 labor, plus parts. I opted to have a lighter weight single mass flywheel installed at the same time, so it did cost about $4400.

These are 5 year old Audi problems.

kepstein

This is my first S4 clutch that didn't go over 100K miles.

westwest888

Me too. But this car has a lot of torque and a sort of weak clutch. My BMW NA inline six made well under 200 ft/lb of torque, less at the wheels.