koobah

Took it from Crutchfield. The 600W power handling of the JL is peak.

m444

It is a bit odd, but some of the specifications across Crutchfield and the manufacturers web pages (JL & Kicker) and the factory manual (JL & Kicker) are not consistant and do not match up. When in doubt, I went with the factory manuals for the Mfr.

helix139

Looks like they match up on the key stats to me

Brandonb

I think either sub is a fine option and would be a substantial improvement over stock. I'd love to hear the Kicker. If anyone in Seattle installs one PM me.

Another option would be to use a 4-ohm dual voice coil sub wired in series, which would present an 8-ohm load. This opens up the range of possible sub choices considerably.

JL has a nice write-up on how dual voice coil drivers work:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=163

Brandonb

Yep, this is true. The stock sub dropped down 1" while this sub drops down 4". Measuring from the trunk deck up to bottom of this sub you've got 15" of clearance. The trunk pass through opening is 17.5" tall, so you're losing 2.5" of passthrough height on the left side.

For me, the choice was between losing some floor space in the trunk for a dedicated sub versus losing a little bit of clearance on the left side of the trunk for this sub, which incidently I can't readily use for pass through because I have a car seat in front of there.

It would be great to see some other creative solutions. There seems to be a lot of empty space behind that right trunk panel, and there's the little holder on the right as well.

riegerman

Is it possible to have some quick connects on the power supply to the sub? If yes then is it possible to extend the power supply of the B&O sub to have a quick connect into the trunk area?If this is possible I would like to do a sub box for most of the time when the trunk is empty and then if I have to carry anything big I can remove the sub box and just plug it back into the B&O sub. Is this possible?

m444

You don't need to disconnect the power supply, only the speaker leads. One could add some quick disconnect plugs for the stock sub and a removable sub box. Just use a female connector on the speaker drive from the stock amp and male connectors on the sub woofers. Then one could swap out the connection easily.

td80

Just a note here as I've been doing similar in my S5. I did everything very similar to what you did here, however I used the kicker comp sub because of the free-air rating as I also mounted a JL amp to power it. I used the 4ohm sub woofer since I would be using a separate amp instead of the B&O amp to power it.

The unfortunate thing is the frame of that kicker comp is so wide it does NOT fit in the factory B&O hole on my S5. I'm assuming thats the same cutout size for the S4 but just sharing that bit of info in case people were thinking of going that route.

I also ran into the issue of the first sub I bought (a Boston rated for Free-air use) was too tall (6.5" mounting depth) due to the S5 glass being sloped at such a severe angle. I think with the S4 you might have less of a slope, but just thought I'd bring that up as well in case the glass is close in the S4 as well.

I'm now thinking about buying a small box to go in the trunk. My objective initially was to not add additional things to the trunk, but now I'm thinking id rather do that than have to cut the rear deck just for the addition of a sub.

kyee

Click on the link in my sig and see how I had it done.

m444

td80,

Can you use a small spacer ring to float the Kicker woofer 0.25" to 0.5" above the stock woofer cutout?
The basket should be a smaller diameter, when rear deck is spaced away from the stock mounting ring.

http://www.eliteinstallersupply.com/...roducts_id=184