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Yes you can connect the blue and yellow wires that fed the old subwoofer directly to the high level input on your amp and then adjust the volume to your liking. You shouldn't need any additional converters.
I'm not sure that the subwoofer signal is accessible anywhere at preamp levels as the subwoofer amp isn't separate from the main amp.
Hello, i want to add aftermarket amp and sub. I have soundstreem RFM700.1D amplifier and JL audio 10w0v3. I have installed this in my old car, played music for 4 months. Now i want to bring this to my new Audi.
My Audi have B&O system.I need to know wich wires are going before stock amplifier and how to connect to them. My amp have HI-LEVEL input so i dont need any converter HI to LOW. So can i connect my Hi-Level input to connect with White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative) like you did with LOC converter and it will do the job? You guys have done this upgrade can you help me please. Thank you have a nice day
I did it this way in my old B8.5 A4 and also in my wife's '16 SQ5. Works like a charm. No LOC needed as long as your amp supports speaker-level inputs.
Anyone know where to find the audio wiring diagram for a 2012 Q5 with B&O sound?
I'm trying to see if:
a) There are low level outputs
b) If the subwoofer high level output has a highpass filter on it
c) If the front L/R signals have any highpass filters on them
d) A way to tap into the front L/R to my LOC for the sub, vs tapping into the sub signal as I'm doing now.
i don't seem to have the same 'red' fuse line in the rear fuse box. do you know what wire it was that was tapped? i think my 'red' fuse line is in the driver cockpit
what was the fuse you tapped for the remote wire? My setup was different from the original post as well but cannot figure out where to tap remote wire. I am running LC2i converter and using the remote out from there to the amp, but the power doesnt turn off with the remotes i have been tapping.
any help is appreciated.
thank you
Originally Posted by motorsport_mike
Updating this thread in hopes that it may help someone, as I performed this mod today and there were some differences with my 2015 S4.
What I did: Installed the same amp mentioned in the original post actually, a Kenwood KAC-1502S (150W RMS), and a 10" Kicker sub in a sealed box (not sure model number).
What's different from original post:
- Remote turn on wire... Looked in right side trunk fuse area, and could not find anything 12V to tap. Had to go to the fuse box in the front, on the drivers side of the dash. Tapped the upper vertical fuse, and ran the wire down and back to the trunk area. See pic below
- Line out converter wires to tap... I used the brown with blue trace, and red with blue trace. And my car is a lease, so I didn't cut them. I tapped into them, left them intact, and actually left the factory subwoofer connected. This way, it will be very easy to simply cut and tape and remove my setup before I turn the car in. It sounds great. I don't notice any issues with leaving both subwoofers active. See pic below
Misc notes:
- I didn't mount the amp in the left side compartment, I just mounted it to the back of the box. Easier access to make adjustments, and I may want to upgrade in the future.
- Bass control in MMI controls bass from all speakers including subwoofer. My amp is pretty low power, so I have it at max. Using the standard bass control seems to work pretty well.
- No rattling of parcel shelf. I now turn the volume up about 4-6 levels higher than I did when stock.
- The bass does not seem overwhelming. It's actually really sweet. It sounds (and feels) like it should have, for the premium price we paid for the B&O upgrade. The trunk doesn't rattle or anything, and with the windows up I don't think I'll attract much attention (this is a good thing in my book). With the windows down, the stereo definitely plays loud.
- I'm quite confident that my box and sub can handle and utilize a lot more power, and will probably upgrade the amp at some point. I'll play with this for a few weeks / months and see how I feel.
- Yes, I gave up some trunk space, but this was never my cargo hauler to begin with. My wife has an SUV for that. It actually takes up a lot less room than the picture below makes it seem. You can look at the cargo net and compare to your trunk. And of course, you could simply choose a different size/shape box and mount it wherever you like to suit your needs.
All in all, I am very happy. I now love my car even more (if that's possible)!
Before I started, I combed these threads for info and I appreciate them for getting me motivated to upgrade the system. I wanted to return the favor and contribute in hopes that it may help someone else. Good luck!
The fuse you looking is not then red ones specific, whole fuse base is red, 2nd row to righ from point you tapped now. Look maybe for electrical socket fuse and you will be fine
I'm considering bringing over my Boston Acoustics GT-2125 amps from my previous car to power 4 speakers. Would anyone comment on being able to fit at least 1 amp with dimensions: 13-1/4"L x 9"W x 2-3/8"H ?
If you use converter you should connect remote wire to converted, because it will give signal and amp will turn on
I know this is in reply to an old post, but I went through 2 new LC2i LOCs, thinking that the "GTO" (Great Turn On) feature wasn't working before I realized that for whatever reason the sub signal just wasn't strong enough to activate the LC2i. Like others have pointed out, however, the fuse blocks in the right side (passenger side) of the trunk have some +12VDC *switched* power sources to splice into. Once I ran a dedicated +12VDC wire from there to the LC2i, there were no more problems...
02-15-2017, 12:34 PM
