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Updating this thread in hopes that it may help someone, as I performed this mod today and there were some differences with my 2015 S4.
- Line out converter wires to tap... I used the brown with blue trace, and red with blue trace. And my car is a lease, so I didn't cut them. I tapped into them, left them intact, and actually left the factory subwoofer connected. This way, it will be very easy to simply cut and tape and remove my setup before I turn the car in. It sounds great. I don't notice any issues with leaving both subwoofers active. See pic below
So I have a 2014 S5 Coupe with the Bang and Olf system. I located the Blue and yellow and the White and Yellow wires and was just about to splice into them until I saw this post, my questions are:
- So for the newer B8.5 models its the Blue and Brown and Blue and Red wires ??
- also is the blue/brown the Neg and the Blue/Red the positive?
- Any drawbacks with keeping the stock sub connected and just tapping the wires for my amp/ and LC2?
- And lastly, has anyone found any wire that is a remote or turn key powered 12v+ line for the converter and amp remote wires?
Thank you
Jay
Last edited by jason bouchard; 04-20-2019 at 11:46 AM.
Reason: grammar and spelling
For remote turn-on, just use a +12V accessory plug and tap into that (1 or two available in the trunk). Disconnect the stock subwoofer if you're going aftermarket, keeping it will just cause problems (sound quality / distortion). I can't speak to what wires you should tap into, but you could also just splice the wire at the sub instead of at the amp.
For remote turn-on, just use a +12V accessory plug and tap into that (1 or two available in the trunk). Disconnect the stock sub woofer if you're going aftermarket, keeping it will just cause problems (sound quality / distortion). I can't speak to what wires you should tap into, but you could also just splice the wire at the sub instead of at the amp.
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Thanks for the reply, So I'm not sure what accessory plug is in the back, I have a 2014 Audi S5 coupe and I could not find one yet. also I really do not want to take apart all the plastic interior tray to get the the sub woofer to cut the wires. so I was hoping to tap into the wires near the amp.
I got everything ready and I am going to tackle this install tonight. thanks guys
Also, which 12v+ did you guys use for your 2Ci line out unit? would it be okay using a switched power line for that and maybe just use the remote line connection? I did everything tonight except for the 2Ci box connection and the remote wire. everything else is ran connected etc.
So I got everything working, used the pin from the relay so the amp shuts off with key off. and I used the red and blue and brown and light blue twisted pair of wires, everything is installed. but I have some questions:
with the 2ci line out converter, I have the two speaker wires from the stock B&O and lengthen them and connect them to the 2Ci do I bridge them using the + of the left side and the - of the right side? or do I just use one side?
The reason I ask is because it doesn't really sound all that good, I am using a 10inch sub and 400 watt amp which I have in my TT, and which sounded great in that vehicle.
Awesome post, thanks for all the tips, I just finished adding a 12inch type R into my S4.
Just a few tips that I learned while doing this install...
"Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing. Once cut, solder in the leads to your LOC. If you have a two channel LOC like the one I picture, twist both positive leads together and both negative leads. This will make it a mono signal."
For this part make sure to splice into the wiring coming from the stock amp. I went after and had to solder onto like 1inch of wire which blew.
Next for the remote wire, I was uneasy about splicing into a wire that I didn't know what it did. So instead I bought an add a fuse and plugged it straight into an empty slot of the red row of 12v switched in the trunk fuse box.
has anyone tried using a proper free air sub like a jl marine free air sub? i'm runnign the mx3 off the factory b&o amp and it's not nearly as punchy and sounds worse, no impact though it does go a little deeper it seems. i'd consider it a downgrade over the b&o, thinking about going to the 10ib5 jl marine ib sub but looking for alternatives as well. anyone use the 10ibau and did it fit from acoustic elegance?
04-20-2019, 11:43 AM
