Originally Posted by Bobby Kinstle

To be honest, the sub will change so slowly during break in that I doubt I will be able to notice the difference. I set the bass a little high to see if it later becomes annoyingly high. Without a good SPL meter I won't be able to give any meaningful evaluation.

My general feeling is, if Audi built the system this way, I would not have messed with it. I remember the old adage, "No highs, no lows, must be Bose" and I though of a new one. B&O stands for Bass for Old people.

No offense to any old people that may be reading this.

Originally Posted by MerkurRS

Please save me some hassle...how did you wire your sub (colours)??

Originally Posted by Bobby Kinstle

I finished with the installation today. It went a bit differently that the previous examples with the JL subwoofers. Total install time was 2.5 hours.

The Good:
Bass is greatly improved. It's not tremendously "louder" but has excellent bass response down to 30 Hz, and also the bass attack is vastly tighter. No more rumbly bumbly boomy bass. I unwrapped the cable going to the sub about 6" and then it was able to reach the back side of the sub without an extension. That means having the terminals concealed on the back side where I won't bang into them. The Dynamat greatly reduced rattle from the rear deck. I showed my wife the old sub and she laughed while asking "Is that a joke?"

The Bad:
While it meshes nicely with the system, it isn't really what I'd call loud bass. You'll need an amp for that. I used to have the bass set to 4 and was unhappy, now I have the bass set to 2 and I'm pretty happy. You won't hear it next door. It might get louder when the new woofer breaks in. It was so tight that I could hardly move it with my hand. Tighter than the old Solobaric I had in my B5. I was hoping to see 20Hz, but really 28Hz was the lowest frequency with an acceptable tone. I can hear 20Hz but it barely registered on the SPL meter. It was more of a wobobobobobow sound than a bass tone.

The Ugly:
This subwoofer has six screw holes and none of them align with the factory screw holes. It also doesn't fit in the cutout (the other install had the same problem). I applied three layers of dynamat and the foam gasket that came with the subwoofer. That gave me a loose fit that tightened up perfectly when I screwed it down. I used the screws that came with the sub which required drilling a small pilot hole with a right angle drill and then screwed it down very snugly. I only used 4 of the six screws because I just couldn't get the drill in the back two holes. Despite that the sub is solidly mounted. I still need the cut off the screws that protrude into the trunk.

The Verdict:
Worth the effort, and I can always add an amp later if I want. The JL sub would be an easier install since it aligns with the three factory screw locations. It about doubles the perception of bass. The phone SPL meter turned out to be utter crap so unfortunately I couldn't get meaningful decibel values to compare with.

Finally here's a few pictures:

Originally Posted by rkool

Awesome write-up thanks, I ordered mine too 53 shipped. Just wondering did you experience any increased rattles in the cabin?

Originally Posted by Bobby Kinstle

No, but since I already had rattles I added the dynamat and actually eliminated a few rattles. The doors still rattle though.

Originally Posted by Steve Trac, Sec 303

From the original post:

"Let's wire in the LOC. The wires we're after are White and Yellow (positive) and Blue and Yellow (negative). These can be cut directly, no splicing."

what are those wires and why can they just be cut? Thanks.