FYI - another Eurocode Alu Kreuz drivetrain stabilizer group buy is open
07-25-2011, 08:36 AM
#21
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I'm in on this, too.
I've got an aluminum racing jack, jack stands, and a jack pad (aka an overpriced hockey puck). But for work involving getting under a car I prefer ramps. Too much risk for me to stick my head under a car only supported on jack stands, especially in a seismic zone.
Soooo, anyone got a pair of ramps?
I've got an aluminum racing jack, jack stands, and a jack pad (aka an overpriced hockey puck). But for work involving getting under a car I prefer ramps. Too much risk for me to stick my head under a car only supported on jack stands, especially in a seismic zone.
Soooo, anyone got a pair of ramps?
07-25-2011, 11:15 AM
#22
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Sorry man...the boys at EuroCode mentioned this during their first group buy. I just tried to search for it, but that group buy thread from AZ has been deleted. The weight of the car has to be removed from the subframe otherwise you may not be able to remove the existing bolts and if you can then the alignment for the new stabilizer and the new bolts will be off. This weight may also effect the proper installation of the new bolts...torque level and proper stretching.
I change my own oil and I'm under the car all the time...but if I had to put it on jack stands and then crawl 2-3 feet behind the oil pan to install this thing I would be a little nervous. I decided to take it to my dealer. For $70 and getting to drive one of their loaners for the day worked good for me.
I change my own oil and I'm under the car all the time...but if I had to put it on jack stands and then crawl 2-3 feet behind the oil pan to install this thing I would be a little nervous. I decided to take it to my dealer. For $70 and getting to drive one of their loaners for the day worked good for me.
Yep Redrocker is right, there is no camber calibration for the S4 without adding adjustable upper control arms, so in order to correct very off camber, the car has to be lifted off the wheels, and the subframe bolts loosened and the subframe forcable shifted over with a huge prybar. This new part solidifies the subframe, so same rules.
07-28-2011, 03:47 PM
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07-28-2011, 04:24 PM
#24
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08-28-2011, 08:07 AM
#26
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Annie, pinged me and is out of town this weekend, but she is still down for anyone who wants to meet up next weekend and do the install at her place. I will be out of town till Sunday afternoon next weekend so I might miss it. If anyone is up for meeting Annie and I can help coordinate.
08-28-2011, 04:25 PM
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Annie, pinged me and is out of town this weekend, but she is still down for anyone who wants to meet up next weekend and do the install at her place. I will be out of town till Sunday afternoon next weekend so I might miss it. If anyone is up for meeting Annie and I can help coordinate.
Wow - I'm actually not working working next weekend!!!!! I may have a friend in town, but I'll be there if I can make it!
08-29-2011, 06:50 PM
#28
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Annie, pinged me and is out of town this weekend, but she is still down for anyone who wants to meet up next weekend and do the install at her place. I will be out of town till Sunday afternoon next weekend so I might miss it. If anyone is up for meeting Annie and I can help coordinate.
08-30-2011, 07:55 AM
#29
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08-30-2011, 01:12 PM
#30
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For those of you who are planning on doing your own install (easy DIY) here are the instructions http://ecodetuning.com/Pictures/B8A4...structions.pdf
A couple of pointers
1.) When attaching the lower sound deadener (belly pan) insert the center screw and two rear screws first but do not tighten fully, this will allow you to line up the three screws we provide much easier, the openings are kinda small and difficult to see from under the car.
2.) Make sure you use a floor jack and jack stands, if you put the car on ramps and remove the factory brace, the subfram can bend.
A couple of pointers
1.) When attaching the lower sound deadener (belly pan) insert the center screw and two rear screws first but do not tighten fully, this will allow you to line up the three screws we provide much easier, the openings are kinda small and difficult to see from under the car.
2.) Make sure you use a floor jack and jack stands, if you put the car on ramps and remove the factory brace, the subfram can bend.