how to remove the rear license plate bracket
 

Got my license plate today. During the installation, I pushed the top left holding nut into the bracket. I tried to remove the bracket to recover the nut. I removed 2 torx screws holding the bracket to the trunk. The bracket doesnt move at all and it seems glued to the trunk. Probably not a big deal since I can secure the plate diagonally using remaining 3 holes. Just wondering if anyone met the same situation. This is my first german car and found it is very different from other cars I owned, starting from the simple license bracket. :o

I'm going to assume you are located in the USA.
 

The rear plate mount is held in place with those Torx screws and several adhesive strips that run width-wise across the rear of the plate mount. Might be easier to remove if you add a bit of heat, but it will just pull off.

Thanks for the info. I guess I will do it when the weather gets a bit warmer. The nut will stay inside the bracket for now.

This happened to me as well. I did a search and found that it has happened to others. It's a poor design if you ask me. Why double tape the frame to the car, when it is already attached to the car with torx screws?

I have the nut trapped in there too and rattles avery time I open the trunk. Going to try the heat gun and see if that makes it easier to remove the plate holder.

In the mean time, I bought a nylon insert that fits in the square and I'm using all 4 screws for my plate.

Seems the glue part is an over engineering. Also the original metal nut inserts are not very secure and very easy get pushed into the bracket. The dealer frame covers part of the registration tag. So every year I will have to remove the frame to put the new sticker on. I guess I will get another frame that doesnt cover the tag so I dont have to mess around these nuts anymore.

Same thing literally just happened to me when removing the new car temp paper plate.

Once you remove the 2 hex screws, the double sided tape runs in two spots, underneath the indented portions of the bracket (horizontal portions) that are in direct contact with the sheet metal of the trunk.

Hair dryer for a few minutes and just work it from one side and do a few inches at a time. Definitely overkill on audis part - wish they went as far from some of the plastic interior pieces that have already started to rattle at 2k miles! Even had enough adhesion power to go back on with no issues.

Thanks for the info. Exact same thing happened to me. I wanted to replace the (4-hole) dealer frame with my own (2-hole) custom frame. The dealer frame only had 2 screws inserted diagonally because one of the top nuts was pushed in. But when I tried to re-position the nut, it fell inside. And after removing the star screws holding down the black frame, was wondering why it still didn't come off and was reluctant to try and force it. That's way overkill on the double-stick tape!

Now, I'm going to give it a try (especially since now that nut rattles around inside and I can't install my new frame). Wish me luck!

Hair dryer is very useful. The glue hardens when cold. It becomes elastic and soft when heated.

Same thing here. 4 days after packing up new car. Try to add a black frame to replace the dealer's name on the frame. The nut got push in. 15 min of sweat and cursing. Could get it out. Can't fig out how to remove the bracket. Finally. Using a small computer screw grabber. Through those tiny holes. With the trunck open to certain position. I was able to push/shake the nut back to the right position. With a longer screw. Screw it up and back into the bracket. Then carefully remove that long screw. A d screw back in the short one

Thanks all for the detailed info. I am also a victim of nuts (:o) pushed inside when the dealer plates were removed on my 2012 A6. Will try to slowly pry it off.

If someone is looking for pictures, this post here gives a good insight into what's involved.