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So I've got the same problem, kinda. The little square inserts that the license plate screws into rusted out and stripped. I had to pry off the whole base and use pliers and a lot of strength to unscrew the plate. Now the plastic mold of the base/mount is stripped...
I can't seem to find a replacement part anywhere online specifically for "rear."
Did anyone find a replacement base, bracket, mount,whatever? Some people mentioned nylon fasteners. What kind did you use? Link?
What about replacing the adhesive strips? What did yall use? Where can I buy these?
I think you're saying you broke the large plastic bracket - if so, I have no clue if the replacement you linked to would work. Here is the OEM item - it's $130 MSRP, part number 4G58271139B9: 2013 Audi S6 Parts - Audi Genuine Parts & Accessories eStore
If you only need the little receptacles to hold the screws, the ones I used are similar to these, which are $2.75 + $3.95 shipping on Amazon. I'm sure you could get them for less than $3 locally - I'm assuming you don't need new screws:
The ones in your first link for $1.99 appear to be basically the same part, except for color (mine are white), but they're hidden behind the plate anyway. The key is that they are 1) nylon and not metal, and 2) larger than the OEM metal ones.
Saw and totally agree with rants about less than third world design and production of rear license plate mouthing bracket and screws for A6. My fix without removing the bracket from the car was to use a strong pinpoint magnet to pull dislodged srew holders from base of the bracket (by woking through/outside the plastic frame) where I could then "pick" the holder up with a dental tool. Using a second dental tool I was able to pull it back into the slot. With a pre-mix of epoxy, using a toothpick I applied the glue around the flanges, and held the holder with dental tools. After curing, I was able to screw in the plates and bracket. I expect to have to repeat this procedure with every plate renewal, but should be easier on the trunk lid (by not having to pull off the bracket) and my future expectations for what should be a five minute procedure.
I just ran into the same issue with my A6. Pretty frustrating. Very thankful for this thread. I used a hairdryer and the adhesive loosened up very quickly. After removal and examination it is pretty clear that if you over tighten the bolts, it pushes the nut bracket out of the plastic frame. Here are some pictures of the back side of the plastic frame and the nut brackets.
Back of plate holder. Grey strips are adhesive.
If you over tighten or use too long of bolt, it will push this out of the plastic frame.
I'm having the same problem with tightening too hard and the nut was pushed in. My problem however is removing the screw from the nut. No matter how I turn the screw will just spin and not come off. Any ideas?
I'm having the same problem with tightening too hard and the nut was pushed in. My problem however is removing the screw from the nut. No matter how I turn the screw will just spin and not come off. Any ideas?
I actually encountered this same problem over the weekend. I ended up putting the rivet into a table vice to hold it in place & then used a screwdriver to remove the screw.
This is all relative to your ability to remove the plate bracket from the trunk, which usually ends in creating a small circular whole in your bracket (as depicted above in squarefoot's 1st picture).
This happened to me as well. I did a search and found that it has happened to others. It's a poor design if you ask me. Why double tape the frame to the car, when it is already attached to the car with torx screws?
I have the nut trapped in there too and rattles avery time I open the trunk. Going to try the heat gun and see if that makes it easier to remove the plate holder.
In the mean time, I bought a nylon insert that fits in the square and I'm using all 4 screws for my plate.
I agree on such a nice care the design of the rear license plate bracket is horrible. Those nuts are incredibly easy to push out of position. For a $130 part (more if you buy from dealer) you would think it would have a way more durable and reliable system for the screws. On my A3 the dealer put in cheap steel screws that rusted in one season, they fused to the cheap metal in the nuts in the frame and I could not get them out. I tried to get this corrected under warrantee but dealer told me the screws are a "wearable" part and it's not cover d. I called Audi and they told me the same. So due to cheap crap screws and nuts I had to fork over a lot of cash for a new bracket. Word to the wise, when you get your new Audi put some stainless steel screws in the license plate.
On my new A6 (awesome car) swapping out cheapo dealer screws on the rear plate for stainless ones, I pushed two of the nuts out of the plastic. It's almost impossible not to do it. I wish Audi would correct this design. For such an expensive part this is a joke.
I agree on such a nice care the design of the rear license plate bracket is horrible. Those nuts are incredibly easy to push out of position. For a $130 part (more if you buy from dealer) you would think it would have a way more durable and reliable system for the screws.
Well, I've spent a few hours after taking off the temp plate on my 2017 A4 with this mess.
First, I tried to attach my plate with the screws that attached the dealer frame to the mounting base, but of course without the plastic dealer advertising frame, the screws were too long and felt loose.
Next, take off the mounting base, must be a regular plate attachment system under it, right? Take out the Torx screws, oops, stuck to the trunk lid - AND, the Torx screws left holes in the sheet metal, AND, nothing underneath.
SO, the mounting base is a necessity.
Now, set aside the dealer screws (they are really bolts) and screw the plate to the base, right?
Nope. There are little metal mounts with a plastic insert where the plate needs to attach. Power screwdriver? Pushes those suckers right into the mounting base!
SO. When it's not 10 degrees outside, I need to take the mounting base off and replace those stupid little inserts with ones that can take a screw (a normal, regular screw) and that will allow the plate to be mounted without a frame (want to see the whole plate).
Just received my plates yesterday (it took six weeks to get them)
When I went to remove the two bolts so I could mount my plates....yep, you guessed it....the dealer prep people apparently got so carried away putting "their" license plate frame on that they messed up. I spent a fair amount of time as a mechanical designer and have to say this is a really frail Mickey Mouse design.
Now I have to mess around coming up with a fix....not happy. I'll try the dealer first but if they say it's going to cost ME money to fix THEIR screw up, I will be livid.
02-24-2015, 11:17 AM
