New S4 - Need to Break-it-in?
#1
New S4 - Need to Break-it-in?
Just bought a 2015 S4 Progressive Brilliant Black on Black with Black Optics & Sport Diff (no ADS though).
Couple questions:
1. Should I be breaking-it-in? If so, what do I need to do? Keep it under a certain speed/revs etc.? For how long?
2. I didn't get the B&O Technik as none were available at lease rate I got in Black and with Sport Diff.
How much would it roughly cost me to put in a stereo system that would approach the B&O? (don't need it to be that good, but something much better than the stock stereo).
If you can suggest any parts/packages that would be great too.
Couple questions:
1. Should I be breaking-it-in? If so, what do I need to do? Keep it under a certain speed/revs etc.? For how long?
2. I didn't get the B&O Technik as none were available at lease rate I got in Black and with Sport Diff.
How much would it roughly cost me to put in a stereo system that would approach the B&O? (don't need it to be that good, but something much better than the stock stereo).
If you can suggest any parts/packages that would be great too.
#2
Keep the revs low'ish...as much as you can LOL! Do your normal commute. The break-in for motors needs the changes in revs for it to work well. Definitely do not just take it on a really long drive down the Interstate to satisfy the 1,000 miles target.
Your dealer should also be scheduling your first service for about a month from the time you bought it. Really that is just a top-off type service too.
Your dealer should also be scheduling your first service for about a month from the time you bought it. Really that is just a top-off type service too.
#3
I followed Audi's break-in instructions but members on this forum with more experience with Audi's have recommended otherwise. My car doesn't oil and seems to run fine (55k miles now).
#4
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I've had good luck so far with just normal driving. I'm only at 1800 miles though
#5
I followed break-in instructions in the manual and so far so good (40k mikes).
The cost of aftermarket upgrades to the factory sound system will be expensive. The $850 (U.S.) for the B&O is a bargain. Any upgrades to the factory system worth doing (such as changing out speakers and subwoofer and adding amp(s)) could easily exceed that amount, but could also exceed the quality of sound from the B&O system.
The cost of aftermarket upgrades to the factory sound system will be expensive. The $850 (U.S.) for the B&O is a bargain. Any upgrades to the factory system worth doing (such as changing out speakers and subwoofer and adding amp(s)) could easily exceed that amount, but could also exceed the quality of sound from the B&O system.
#6
Banned
You have 3 choices.
1) Drive it conservatively. Keep the rpms below 5k . With ALL techniques , do not cruise at the same rpms for an extended period of time. Problem with this technique is that it is not conducive to getting the piston rings seated COMPLETELY, which CAN result in future oil consumption issues.
2) Drive it like you stole it. From day #1 after the car has reached normal operating temps. You drive it as hard as you can . WOT to redline at will. Wot below redline encouraged. This technique is actually the best at getting the ring to seat. IMHO, it put undue stress on the engine and other moving parts in the car.
3) Aggressive or MOTOMAN technique(I recommend) . Again, after the car has reached normal operating temps,(from day #1) do WOT runs to the redline followed by engine braking back to speed. Not for a standing start but rolling at 5mph is ok. This should be done no more than 3 times a day and never back to back. WOTs below redline followed by engine braking at will. Engine braking is most important . FYI, if you have a DSG, your car will never approach the 7200 rpm redline . You will be lucky to get to 6500 rpms before the trans shifts. If you have a 6MT, there is a rev limiter to prevent over revving on an upshift. BTW, at redline, the engine will just run as if it were used to running all day at that rpm. I have been recommending this technique for over 15 yrs now. Many who have used it know it works. Many have thanked me for telling them about it. No one who has used it has(to my knowledge) reported oil consumption or oil consumption issues. However, there has been a problem with the PCV valves in these cars causing excessive oil consumption. Replacing the valve has cured most who have had issues. You only get one opportunity to break in your engine. Then you live with the consequences. Congrats on your new car and enjoy.
1) Drive it conservatively. Keep the rpms below 5k . With ALL techniques , do not cruise at the same rpms for an extended period of time. Problem with this technique is that it is not conducive to getting the piston rings seated COMPLETELY, which CAN result in future oil consumption issues.
2) Drive it like you stole it. From day #1 after the car has reached normal operating temps. You drive it as hard as you can . WOT to redline at will. Wot below redline encouraged. This technique is actually the best at getting the ring to seat. IMHO, it put undue stress on the engine and other moving parts in the car.
3) Aggressive or MOTOMAN technique(I recommend) . Again, after the car has reached normal operating temps,(from day #1) do WOT runs to the redline followed by engine braking back to speed. Not for a standing start but rolling at 5mph is ok. This should be done no more than 3 times a day and never back to back. WOTs below redline followed by engine braking at will. Engine braking is most important . FYI, if you have a DSG, your car will never approach the 7200 rpm redline . You will be lucky to get to 6500 rpms before the trans shifts. If you have a 6MT, there is a rev limiter to prevent over revving on an upshift. BTW, at redline, the engine will just run as if it were used to running all day at that rpm. I have been recommending this technique for over 15 yrs now. Many who have used it know it works. Many have thanked me for telling them about it. No one who has used it has(to my knowledge) reported oil consumption or oil consumption issues. However, there has been a problem with the PCV valves in these cars causing excessive oil consumption. Replacing the valve has cured most who have had issues. You only get one opportunity to break in your engine. Then you live with the consequences. Congrats on your new car and enjoy.
#7
Audiworld Junior Member
I picked our S4 at the factory with a European Delivery last October. They give you a very detailed delivery orientation and the official factory advice was to try not not exceeding 3000 RPM for the first 1000km and avoid WOT for the next 1000km. You can go plenty fast on the autobahn and not exceed 3000 RPM. Since we put almost 2000 miles on it over there, we had plenty of time to play later in the trip.
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#8
I used DrGP's method after visiting this site, prior to taking delivery of my '15 S4. I came off a 3-year lease of an A5 with the 2.0L engine, admittedly very different. I followed the manufacturer recommendation on that car and had oil consumption issues, topping it off a liter at least a couple times between routine oil changes.
I'm only up to 4000 miles on my S4, but oil level is at the top by the MMI. I have the dipstick, maybe I should double check to make sure. Time will tell.
I'm only up to 4000 miles on my S4, but oil level is at the top by the MMI. I have the dipstick, maybe I should double check to make sure. Time will tell.
#10
Banned