Shelby Monsoon Enough (break-in and other questions)
 

Casually walked into an Audi dealership yesterday just wanting to take a look at some initial numbers for reference at other dealerships. I knew without a shadow of the slightest doubt that I would have an S4 before the end of the year, just didnt know if I wanted to spring for a new one. They greased me up real good and I ended up signing that day. Ill take delivery of my brand new 2016 Audi S4 on Friday, maybe Saturday and as much as they greased me, I couldnt be any more excited. Seriously, so super stoked! (S4)

She's Daytona, has the sport differential (really, the *only* option I absolutely insisted on), Technology package, 19-inch wheel and tire package, Nappa leather and probably a few other things I didnt want to pay for. I really only wanted the sport differential and B/O, but the dealership explained that B/O only comes with the technology package even though its listed as a separate $829 option.....fine, whatever, just gimme. They showed me a minimally loaded car with those two options at a decent price. I signed on the dotted line, and they call me over 5 minutes later and say they called the dealership that had the car to swap and told me the car was just sold. They did that with the next three cars. Look, look, look, find something in their inventory, get me excited, make me sign, tell me 5 minutes later they called the dealership for a transfer and claim it was just sold. Honestly, I dont even know what I ended up getting exactly, but I do know it was about $6000 more than I kinda wanted to spend with tons of options I was up-front about not wanting to pay for.

Even after kinda feeling a little taken advantage of, I STILL cant wait for this car. They even gave me an S5 to take home until my car is delivered, and I just want *my* car. I have a few questions. Im interested in break-in specifics. I have read the break-in page (actually seen it before, and glad it was posted here in the forums as the go-to approach for breaking in a new S4) and want to make absolutely sure, after what I spent, that I start this car of perfectly. Seems to make a significant difference when done properly in post break-in power output. First, the car is being delivered with 14 miles. From what I read, the break-in process must be done before 20 miles, otherwise the rings wont seat the way they should. I tried explaining this to the dealership, and this guy tried to tell me that Audi "breaks in" their motor at the factory and "proves" this to me by showing me a youtube video of an S4 motor on a bench being revved up like a dirty bar slut. The post specifically says not to do this. From what I know, I plan on taking the car from the dealership *directly* to a straight frontage road about a mile away to run up 2nd gear WOT to redline and let it engine brake back down. I understand to do this two or three times (not necessarily back-to-back, though) and no more that day, normal acceleration after that. I plan on doing an oil change at 20 miles to remove small metal debris and shavings associated with a new motor. Does this sound like proper break-in technique? I traded in a 2015 V6 Accord that had 4 miles when I got it. Should I be concerned about the unknown 14 miles already on it? Are the 6 miles left enough to do a proper break-in? A big part of the reason I decided to get the new S4 was because Im so concerned with proper break-in (I hear lots of excess oil-burning problems with the S4). What do I do after 20 miles? I think I read on the post to be careful or conservative for the first 1,000 miles or so. What is the purpose of this if the rings have (theoretically) been seated properly?

I had a quick question about the degree of necessity for premium pump gas and it seems that the S4 has a knock sensor to de-tune the motor to prevent detonation, so better gas = more power but cheaper gas isnt the end of the world. Seems like 91 or 93 octane is generally the preferred (and better) option.

Finally, I am clearly interested (already!) in some aftermarket mods, generally in the handling department as I hear messing with anything under the hood triggers that nasty TD1 code and essentially voids your warranty. What are some relatively affordable upgrades in the handling department (under $1000 parts/labor)?

Thank you kindly for your direction. Of course, pictures to follow soon!

First of all, Congrats on your purchase. You will love the car. As far as break in is concerned, it takes about 1000 miles to break in an engine. By that I am talking about getting the piston rings seated completely. Most cars come from the factory with between 5 and 50 miles on the odometer. I foresee no problems. Audis are run at the factory, but definitely not broken in.
The cylinder walls have a very hard Alusil lining that take long to wear in against the piston rings.
First, drive the car normally until you reach normal operating temps. the oil temp gage is not activated from the factory(but can be with a vag com )give it about 10 mins of driving. Then from first gear or D do a WOT run to the redline( or just short if you are squeamish) followed by engine braking . Start at 5mph and just mash the pedal and leave off the gas at redline. There is a rev limiter ,so don't worry about over revving the engine. 6 MT shout redline between 7000 and 7200 rpm,. Stronic much lower around 6500 rpms. Do this only 2-3 times a day. WOT below redline and in other gears at will. No back to back WOTS to redline.DO NOT remove the oil at 20 miles. Totally unnecessary. Oil will still be protective until 5k miles. Oil filter will pull any metal pieces out of oil. Some actually do an oil change at 1000 miles, but IMHO, it is not necessary. FYI, break in technique is very controversial. Some will say follow the manufacturer's recommendation and drive it conservatively. Others will recommend driving it like you stole it. Those that have used this technique know it works.

Thanks for the information.....much appreciated!

+1 For Doc GP's break-in techniques. I used it for my 2011 - I've had 30K mi of trouble free performance. Haven't added a drop of oil outside of annual oil changes.