Nostromo

This is something I have planned ASAP. Question: as opposed to drilling new holes in your deck, did anyone try to drill new holes in the speaker mount to match up with the B&O holes?

Also what's your long term review of the swap? Anything else you would have done different?

Bobby Kinstle

There's a plastic ring around the top with large openings to let the screw heads seat against the metal. You will need to either remove the ring, or drill holes larger than the screw heads. Other than that, there's no reason why you can't.

As the first person to do this, I'm very happy with it. It took a few months to really break it in, so set you bass high in the beginning and then turn it down as the woofer loosens up.

My only complaint isn't volume its depth. You really can't get below 28Hz with that woofer in a free air installation. 28Hz is pretty deep though. I wish the B&O would let you adjust the subwoofer volume independently. Adding an amp just for a volume control is too much work IMO. If however you decide it isn't loud enough, then adding an amp is really easy. Buy something that can run 2 ohm and wire the woofer for parallel voice coils, rather than in series for the B&O, and you'll have no trouble making all the bass you want.

Nostromo

Great - I actually have your original post bookmarked!

Nostromo

Subwoofer installed!

First impression - great. Adds a much more depth and 'tightness'. B&O amp has no problems pushing it. Cranking it up on a bass heavy song I'm riding the level about -4 in Driver focus = there's plenty of sound, no more amp needed.

I ended up drilling 3 new holes in the speaker ring as opposed to new holes in the deck of the car. Worked great - ran some 1 1/4" bolts through and it tightened down real nice. Two layers of Dynamat plus the foam gasket that came with the speakers (no one mentioned how sharp those cut edges on the foil can be...). I also cut the lead wire a few inches back and ran about 8" of new wire and connected it with electrical twist caps.

Next: Dynamat the front passenger door.

Thanks again for the original thread, plus Brandonb's original thread on how to get the deck removed.

Bobby Kinstle

Glad that worked out for you. The bass will only get better over the next couple months. I also failed to mention that when I cut off the screw protrusions with my dremel cut off wheel, the little left over end of the screw fell down and singed the carpet slightly.

brooklyn86

Do you have pictures of the set-up?

Nostromo

Just this:



I basically followed Bobby's install. So his is just as informative with better pics: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...2822346&page=2

Taxmaster

So to be clear, we need to either purchase a SVC8 or a DVC4 woofer so we're sitting at 8 ohms at the amp?

Any recommended power ratings? 400 WRms? I'm unaware of what the amp puts out at this channel.

Taxmaster

Could you kindly upload a few more pics? I'm having trouble gaging how this looks on both sides of the speaker and all the areas you used dynomat (top is self explanatory).

Bobby Kinstle

Correct you need an 8Ω sub to hook up to the B&O amplifier safely. A DVC4Ω is preferred in case you decide to add another amp later as small 2Ω mono sub amps are pretty common.

I'm not sure how much power it puts out, but it can't possibly be more than 120W. The original B&O sub has no useful markings on it other than 8Ω.