To those who did the Pioneer sub swap
06-03-2014, 09:13 PM
#31
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I was the first person to install the Pioneer sub so I'm not assuming anything. The frame gets stuck in the deck hole and you cant go in further, so folks use a ring to support it better. You cannot mount flush without cutting metal. I used three layers of dynamat which stacks up to about 3/8". There is HUGE room above the top of the sub to the fabric of the parcel shelf cover. There is absolutely no chance the sub will ever rub against it even at maximum excursion.
I just measured my old B&O sub right now and its 2.5" thick. The woofer bezel and spacer comes to about 1" which leaves you with 1.5" left. Your max excursion is less than half of that.
I just measured my old B&O sub right now and its 2.5" thick. The woofer bezel and spacer comes to about 1" which leaves you with 1.5" left. Your max excursion is less than half of that.
06-03-2014, 09:29 PM
#32
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I'd say I'll pop mine open and take pictures, but the car is at the window tinters right this very moment, and I won't be able to photograph through the glass when I get it back.
06-03-2014, 09:46 PM
#33
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Hmmm I wouldn't push your luck just in case there's something in there we can't see. Can you stick to 1/2" spacer? Here is a picture of the old B&O sub assembly. You can see that the entire basket and magnet fits between the parcel shelf and the metal deck. It does taper a bit towards one end.
I'd say I'll pop mine open and take pictures, but the car is at the window tinters right this very moment, and I won't be able to photograph through the glass when I get it back.
I'd say I'll pop mine open and take pictures, but the car is at the window tinters right this very moment, and I won't be able to photograph through the glass when I get it back.
This is the exact configuration I'm going for (same woofer too). So I think I'll try for a similar tapered baffle, it seemed to work for him. Do you think this looks reasonable as well?
By the way, please take your time with the photo, no issue. The sub doesn't arrive until Friday anyways.
06-04-2014, 05:54 AM
#34
AudiWorld Uber User
Please see post 182 here:
This is the exact configuration I'm going for (same woofer too). So I think I'll try for a similar tapered baffle, it seemed to work for him. Do you think this looks reasonable as well?
This is the exact configuration I'm going for (same woofer too). So I think I'll try for a similar tapered baffle, it seemed to work for him. Do you think this looks reasonable as well?
BTW: I found a paint can key works very well for removing the grilles.
That guy also wired the sub for 2Ω operation. Make sure you wire for 8Ω with the B&O amp. If you add your own amp later then you'll want to switch back to 2Ω.
By the way, please take your time with the photo, no issue. The sub doesn't arrive until Friday anyways.
Last edited by Bobby Kinstle; 06-04-2014 at 05:56 AM.
06-04-2014, 06:30 AM
#35
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Hmm, well since that looks like an S4/A4 I'd say that it would work OK. I'm not sure why you would need to do something like that though. There's no reason why the sub needs to be level for performance, and you won't be able to see it at all so cosmetic is also out.
Btw, will of course wire for 8 Ohms and will definitely utilize the paint can opener!
06-04-2014, 05:21 PM
#36
AudiWorld Uber User
Yes you are definitely fine with a half inch spacer.
Don't forget to plug in BOTH of your tweeters when you reassemble. Its easy to miss one...
Don't forget to plug in BOTH of your tweeters when you reassemble. Its easy to miss one...
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