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FYI there are five fiber optic cables connected to the B&O amp. I have no idea which one you'll need or if it's even possible to get all the signals on just one of them. I really want to know though.
FYI there are five fiber optic cables connected to the B&O amp. I have no idea which one you'll need or if it's even possible to get all the signals on just one of them. I really want to know though.
Yes, that is what the mobridge or the Zen-V do, the fiber optics line (called MOST) sends encoded information and it also contains many other things not related to audio so you need an interface like those. They are VERY expensive so to circumvent that you get the analog high level audio instead.
I seem to have been through the exact same path both of you have been through, using the Bit One AND the LCi2.
The reason the subwoofer keeps switching off when using the wires for the sub as high level inputs is because the amp is configured to switch off the internal components driving power to the sub when there isn't enough of a low frequency.
My solution so far has been to use the LCi2 (2 channel LOC) taking the hi lev inputs from the rear doors, which are almost a full range signal. The low uutput from to LCi2 then goes into the Bit One.
What I'm planning on doing is using the front door inputs along with the rear doors inputs directly into the Bit One and trying things out without using the subwoofer input.
Based on the frequency charts that Bobby has shared, this should be a big enough signal range for the Bit One to present a full signal to it's internal processors.
@Bobby Kinstle , even though your microphone recorded the lowest frequency from the front door woofer at 58hz, the amp is actually giving a much lower frequency which that speaker just can't produce. I verified this when I used the front woofer input only into the Bit One, and use the 31 band EQ to dial up the 25hz-50hz considerably, and there definitely was an audible difference in low bass, which tells me the signal must exist in those wires to begin with in order for the Bit One to be able to amplify it.
As for the question of where to take the remote wire, I juts took the live wire from the 12v lighter output in the trunk, and that's served me just fine. Everything switches off a few minutes after the car is switched off.
Hope this info has been of help, and if you guys can add to it or correct me.
Will update everyone here once I've tried using front door woofer+rear door woofer+ rear door tweeter high level inputs directly into the Bit One.
I seem to have been through the exact same path both of you have been through, using the Bit One AND the LCi2.
The reason the subwoofer keeps switching off when using the wires for the sub as high level inputs is because the amp is configured to switch off the internal components driving power to the sub when there isn't enough of a low frequency.
My solution so far has been to use the LCi2 (2 channel LOC) taking the hi lev inputs from the rear doors, which are almost a full range signal. The low uutput from to LCi2 then goes into the Bit One.
What I'm planning on doing is using the front door inputs along with the rear doors inputs directly into the Bit One and trying things out without using the subwoofer input.
Based on the frequency charts that Bobby has shared, this should be a big enough signal range for the Bit One to present a full signal to it's internal processors.
@Bobby Kinstle , even though your microphone recorded the lowest frequency from the front door woofer at 58hz, the amp is actually giving a much lower frequency which that speaker just can't produce. I verified this when I used the front woofer input only into the Bit One, and use the 31 band EQ to dial up the 25hz-50hz considerably, and there definitely was an audible difference in low bass, which tells me the signal must exist in those wires to begin with in order for the Bit One to be able to amplify it.
Yes you are correct, it plays to 44hz and then drops off very sharply to zero by 42hz. That's why I'm such a big fan of those Aurum Cantus woofers that play into the 30's. I first noticed it when I was playing a 50hz test tone and noticed the door panel was vibrating. So I sent tones to that speaker with a test tone generator app on my phone to find the crossover points. I've found that there's still some benefit from having the subwoofer overlap this speaker up to about 60Hz and then using an EQ to boost the bass below 40hz however. Adjust to your preference.
For turning on, I just found a fuse in the trunk panel and put a fuse tap on that. So far it's 100% solid. I'm not at home right now, but I can look up the exact fuse location when I get back.
You’re absolutely right. So here the final update.
- I got rid of the LCi2 and gave high level inputs directly into the Bit One as follows: Front L/R tweeters, Front L/R woofer, Rear L/R full range.
- By virtue of not connecting the sub inputs, I managed to avoid the loud pops I was getting when the stereo was paused or at zero volume.
- Did the high level input check and the de-equalisation via the Bit One
- the B&O amp reduces bass output as the volume is increased. To counter this, the Bit One allows you to automatically raise certain frequencies as the volume is increased.
im delighted where where I’ve arrived. Having said that, I’ll have to admit that even the best kind of high-level inputs are a major compromise.
the only three solutions for using the optical are:
- Mobridge DA1
- Audison Bit DMI
- Zen-V
Of these three, if you have a German can that’s post 2016, it’s extremely likely that it runs a MOST150 Optical cable, in which case only the Zen-V will get the job done, as is the case with my 2017 A4 B9.
So until I’ve got $750 to burn, I’m gonna stop messing around with my installation and just fine tune the EQ for each speaker via the DSP.
Again, for anyone going down this road, be advised that high level inputs are a compromise and will always be the weak link in an otherwise great stereo.
06-05-2019, 09:03 PM
