M3KILR

So the Eibach's arrive tomorrow and i'm anxious to get them installed along with all new front control arms and all new rear bushings. Reviews to follow afterward. I really wanted the Vogland GT's but they have had a breakdown in production quality resulting in faulty rear shocks. With no fix in sight on the Vogtlands the Eibachs were next on the list. The Prostreets run 670ish Linear Front springs and Progressive rears that max in the high 400's.. forgot the exact specs I left them at the office. I'm also going to keep the 19mm Nuespeed Rear Sway but go from Med. to Soft to start out. The Tracksports plus the Nuespeed have made for a very unforgiving rear end. My fault for not puting the stocker back in. The Tracksports will be going up for sale with 500f/600r springs. If anyone has tips on the front control arm install it's the complete kit from 034 or pressing in the rear inner, outer and lower bushings. (yes it is cheaper to replace the bushings than buy new arms).TIA

Indyxtype

While I haven't installed coilovers yet, I did just swap out my front upper arms when I was replacing my axles. From what I can tell, this is the hardest part. Along with my pinch bolt, the upper arms were seized into the upright. I managed to get the forward arms out but despite trying a torch, pb blaster, a 5 lb sledge and plenty of vigor, the aft ones still weren't coming out. The method that I went with which worked great was taking the end off the shock tower first, swinging the arm around and out of the wheel well and then using the arms length as leverage. I just struck down on the free end with the hammer, which because the other end was then pinned against the upright directed all the force and leverage to pry the other end up and out. Worked like a charm. Looking around down there, the rest of the arms just seem plug and play with only one nut/bolt on each end. Make sure you have an assortment of open ends, sockets, and extensions because it sometimes gets hard to get the best angle down there. Also make sure you are only torquing the arms at ride hight to avoid over stressing them. This can be done by keeping them loose upon install and only fully torque them when the car is on the ground at ride hight. Or another method which may not be quite as exact but a hell of alot easier is to measure/mark/remember the angle and position of the arms and install the other arms along the same plane so that you can correctly torque everything out of the car because there is nearly impossible to get a torque wrench in there once it's all back together.