ABS computer won't take a recode...why?
09-04-2004, 04:57 AM
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ABS computer won't take a recode...why?
During my K16 install, apparently my ABS computer got fried, and now the replacement won't take any code from a VAG. Not only this, that ECU and the main ECU reset to factory after the engine is turned off. It's at the dealer now, who is saying probably 10 hours of diag work to find the wire fault. Anybody ever gone through this? Why would both ECUs reset themselves? Could there be a short in the harness? Does anybody have wiring schematics for the ABS computer?
TIA!
TIA!
09-04-2004, 06:38 AM
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You need to do a login for a new/different ABS module...(very long)
Sorry to everyone else reading this...I normally email these, but TwnTrbo does not have his email linked.
There is more than a simple recode needed for an ABS module (see further below). As for the wiring issue, search for JasonS4 about 5 months ago. He had a broken wire between the module under the back seat and the pump in the engine bay. We found which wire was broken and by-passed it using a very ghetto fix, but it is still working without issue. It sure beats the other option (big $$). I know the below works for a 2001 6spd and a 2001.5 tip. Perform at your own risk, but hey, it is already broken.
Taken from copies of the dealer service manual given to me by my service writer.
From VAG-Com, select 03 (ABS Brakes)
Select Login
Enter login code 09495 (6spd) 09497 (tip)
Click "Do It!"
Select Recode
Enter Soft Code 04395 (6spd) 04397 (tip)
Click "Do It!"
Select Basic settings
Select Group 001
Turn the steering wheel +/- 10 degrees and then return to the zero (straight) position. Verify results from the screen. This apparently "activates" the system. Can be done with the car not running.
Clear all DTC codes.
That is all I had to do. For me, the ABS light stayed on for a while until I had driven a round for about a mile. Then it was gone. I went back in and cleared any remaining codes.
This was for a repair done on JasonS4's car, but during troubleshooting, we installed my ABS controller in his car. This caused me to require the re-activation in my car as well as his. He is a 6spd, I am a Tip. So I know the codes/login work for both cars provided they have ESP.
Here is the procedure for zeroing the steering wheel. Please do not do it unless you are certain it is needed. I imagine that a DTC code will keep popping up of it. You will keep getting the DTC unless you initiate the sensor by turning the wheel back and forth at least 10 degrees. I did not have to do this with my car, so I am going from the Audi instructions, there may be some difference.
From VAG-Com, select 03 (ABS Brakes)
Select Login
Enter login code 40168
Click "Do It!"
Select Basic settings
Select Group 001
There should be an "OK" in a block for Calibrating Steer Sens.
Group 005 should display the zero position.
Switch ignition off
Switch ignition on
Repeat.
Clear any DTC's
Remember...I had to go for a drive (a very slow, safe drive for the light to go out). Come back and clear all the DTC's in the ABS module. Enjoy (hopefully).
There is more than a simple recode needed for an ABS module (see further below). As for the wiring issue, search for JasonS4 about 5 months ago. He had a broken wire between the module under the back seat and the pump in the engine bay. We found which wire was broken and by-passed it using a very ghetto fix, but it is still working without issue. It sure beats the other option (big $$). I know the below works for a 2001 6spd and a 2001.5 tip. Perform at your own risk, but hey, it is already broken.
Taken from copies of the dealer service manual given to me by my service writer.
From VAG-Com, select 03 (ABS Brakes)
Select Login
Enter login code 09495 (6spd) 09497 (tip)
Click "Do It!"
Select Recode
Enter Soft Code 04395 (6spd) 04397 (tip)
Click "Do It!"
Select Basic settings
Select Group 001
Turn the steering wheel +/- 10 degrees and then return to the zero (straight) position. Verify results from the screen. This apparently "activates" the system. Can be done with the car not running.
Clear all DTC codes.
That is all I had to do. For me, the ABS light stayed on for a while until I had driven a round for about a mile. Then it was gone. I went back in and cleared any remaining codes.
This was for a repair done on JasonS4's car, but during troubleshooting, we installed my ABS controller in his car. This caused me to require the re-activation in my car as well as his. He is a 6spd, I am a Tip. So I know the codes/login work for both cars provided they have ESP.
Here is the procedure for zeroing the steering wheel. Please do not do it unless you are certain it is needed. I imagine that a DTC code will keep popping up of it. You will keep getting the DTC unless you initiate the sensor by turning the wheel back and forth at least 10 degrees. I did not have to do this with my car, so I am going from the Audi instructions, there may be some difference.
From VAG-Com, select 03 (ABS Brakes)
Select Login
Enter login code 40168
Click "Do It!"
Select Basic settings
Select Group 001
There should be an "OK" in a block for Calibrating Steer Sens.
Group 005 should display the zero position.
Switch ignition off
Switch ignition on
Repeat.
Clear any DTC's
Remember...I had to go for a drive (a very slow, safe drive for the light to go out). Come back and clear all the DTC's in the ABS module. Enjoy (hopefully).
09-06-2004, 01:44 PM
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Did it work? (answers inside) long again
The big money option was letting the dealer track it down. They like to buy new parts and start replacing until it works. The ABS module is $1000, the wiring harness can't be cheap, plus a lot of labor.
Tracking down the wire fault.....
You need a Bentley, volt meter and resistance meter (can be the same), some wire, and the coconuts to cut wires on the wiring harness.
In a nut shell....
The bentley will tell what the voltages between certain plugs in the harness should be (the harness under the back seat). If you find a pair with infinate resistance, one or both of those wires are broken. Track the wire color out of the harness and match to the wires coming into the controller under the hood (meaning you have both ends of the wire). Check the continuity between the two harnesses. The one with none is broken. Route some wire from the engine bay to the rear seat. Cut out the broken wire and splice in the one you the just ran.
That is how JasonS4 and I fixed his.
Tracking down the wire fault.....
You need a Bentley, volt meter and resistance meter (can be the same), some wire, and the coconuts to cut wires on the wiring harness.
In a nut shell....
The bentley will tell what the voltages between certain plugs in the harness should be (the harness under the back seat). If you find a pair with infinate resistance, one or both of those wires are broken. Track the wire color out of the harness and match to the wires coming into the controller under the hood (meaning you have both ends of the wire). Check the continuity between the two harnesses. The one with none is broken. Route some wire from the engine bay to the rear seat. Cut out the broken wire and splice in the one you the just ran.
That is how JasonS4 and I fixed his.
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