for the archives.. 24 pictures: replace cv joint boot on front passenger side
04-17-2007, 10:04 AM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
for the archives.. 24 pictures: replace cv joint boot on front passenger side
Break cv bolt loose. I cut my sears 17mm allen wrench so I could get a 17mm socket on it. Napa has to order bits this big.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1055.JPG">
Wheel removed. That's the bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1056.JPG">
Bolt removed from hole. As you're loosening the cv joint bolt, tap on it to drive cv joint inward, out of the hub.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1057.JPG">
I disconnected upper arms and lower end of coil over. You don't want to lean on that abs sensor wire.. I detached it from the clip on the hub to give it more slack while working. Don't forget, you may want to turn the steering wheel to driver's side.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1058.JPG">
Install NEW cv bolt into CV joint and tighten to separate joint from shaft. Old bolt might be stretched. Don't pull on shaft too hard or you'll loosen the inner boot clamp.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1059.JPG">
CV joint on bench, sitting in something in case it tips over.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1060.JPG">
New bolt installed into hole until it's flush inside. This prevents new grease from going out the bolt hole when you squeeze it into the joint.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1061.JPG">
Cut corner of grease packet and stick into shaft hole.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1062.JPG">
Use a screwdriver or something to roll the tube on and squeeze grease into hole like toothpaste.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1063.JPG">
Remove the old c-clip from groove in end of shaft. Cut small boot clamp and pull old boot off shaft, straight into a waiting trash bag.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1065.JPG">
There's the shaft with nothing on it. BTW, don't pull too hard on the shaft or you'll loosen the inner boot clamp.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1066.JPG">
From lower left to right: new bolt (27mm socket), small boot clamp, concave metal washer, plastic thrust washer, round wire C-clip for groove in end of shaft, etc.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1067.JPG">
Install new small clamp, boot, concave metal washer, plastic thrust washer, and round wire C-clip on shaft.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1068.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1069.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1071.JPG">
Don't forget these parts!
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1072.JPG">
With the new cv bolt still installed from the workbench grease install, carefully align cv joint with shaft and tap it on. If you don't have the bolt installed the cv shaft will push grease into the hole. Don't screw up the shaft splines. Yea, I used a new allen type bolt that I had from another kit vs. the new hex head bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1073.JPG">
Use breaker bar to pry downward on swaybar and re-install lower coil over bolt. I only had this side of the car jacked up so the swaybar has to be pushed downward. Get this back on before you put cv joint back into the hub, otherwise it'll be in the way or you'll have to push suspension down much more.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1074.JPG">
Reattach upper arms with loctite on threads of bolt. I also spray the hole with wurth spray wax before installing the bolt. Reinstall cv joint into hub while you're doing this, and get the big bolt cv started.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1075.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1076.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1077.JPG">
You want the suspension and close to normal ride height before fully torquing this bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1078.JPG">
Put the wheel back on and lower car to the ground. Torque this bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1079.JPG">
+180 degree turn
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1080.JPG">
These pics should help but don't email me if you forget to reinstall the thrust washer, screw up your shaft splines or inner boot, don't use a jackstand or put the wheel under the car for safety, or just generally screw something up.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1055.JPG">
Wheel removed. That's the bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1056.JPG">
Bolt removed from hole. As you're loosening the cv joint bolt, tap on it to drive cv joint inward, out of the hub.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1057.JPG">
I disconnected upper arms and lower end of coil over. You don't want to lean on that abs sensor wire.. I detached it from the clip on the hub to give it more slack while working. Don't forget, you may want to turn the steering wheel to driver's side.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1058.JPG">
Install NEW cv bolt into CV joint and tighten to separate joint from shaft. Old bolt might be stretched. Don't pull on shaft too hard or you'll loosen the inner boot clamp.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1059.JPG">
CV joint on bench, sitting in something in case it tips over.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1060.JPG">
New bolt installed into hole until it's flush inside. This prevents new grease from going out the bolt hole when you squeeze it into the joint.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1061.JPG">
Cut corner of grease packet and stick into shaft hole.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1062.JPG">
Use a screwdriver or something to roll the tube on and squeeze grease into hole like toothpaste.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1063.JPG">
Remove the old c-clip from groove in end of shaft. Cut small boot clamp and pull old boot off shaft, straight into a waiting trash bag.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1065.JPG">
There's the shaft with nothing on it. BTW, don't pull too hard on the shaft or you'll loosen the inner boot clamp.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1066.JPG">
From lower left to right: new bolt (27mm socket), small boot clamp, concave metal washer, plastic thrust washer, round wire C-clip for groove in end of shaft, etc.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1067.JPG">
Install new small clamp, boot, concave metal washer, plastic thrust washer, and round wire C-clip on shaft.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1068.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1069.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1071.JPG">
Don't forget these parts!
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1072.JPG">
With the new cv bolt still installed from the workbench grease install, carefully align cv joint with shaft and tap it on. If you don't have the bolt installed the cv shaft will push grease into the hole. Don't screw up the shaft splines. Yea, I used a new allen type bolt that I had from another kit vs. the new hex head bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1073.JPG">
Use breaker bar to pry downward on swaybar and re-install lower coil over bolt. I only had this side of the car jacked up so the swaybar has to be pushed downward. Get this back on before you put cv joint back into the hub, otherwise it'll be in the way or you'll have to push suspension down much more.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1074.JPG">
Reattach upper arms with loctite on threads of bolt. I also spray the hole with wurth spray wax before installing the bolt. Reinstall cv joint into hub while you're doing this, and get the big bolt cv started.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1075.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1076.JPG">
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1077.JPG">
You want the suspension and close to normal ride height before fully torquing this bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1078.JPG">
Put the wheel back on and lower car to the ground. Torque this bolt.
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1079.JPG">
+180 degree turn
<img src="http://dave-new.com/S4/CVjoint_passgr/DSCN1080.JPG">
These pics should help but don't email me if you forget to reinstall the thrust washer, screw up your shaft splines or inner boot, don't use a jackstand or put the wheel under the car for safety, or just generally screw something up.
04-17-2007, 11:04 AM
#4
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just to add, its not necessary to remove the coilover from the lower control arm
There is enough room to get the CV out just fine without removing that. Also, red thread lock on there is pretty hardcore! (I would use blue, if any at all) Great pics and excellent work! I like the bungies to hold up the axle! Just thought I would add my 10 cents ; )
) A+++
