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B5 S4 Hard Coolant Lines O-Ring Replacement

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Old 09-19-2010, 12:21 AM
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Default B5 S4 Hard Coolant Lines O-Ring Replacement

Hi

Just spent an enjoyable (?) Sunday morning removing the inlet manifold of my S4 in pursuit of a persistent coolant leak that seems to be common with this model. I'd previously replaced the post-run coolant pump, but that turned out to be only part of the problem, which saw a sometimes appearance of coolant around the steel hard pipes that make life so difficult in the Vee of the 2.7TT. After lots of pics to remind me of what goes where, I succeeded in removing the offending pipes and O-Rings (see attached diagram). Given the trouble it took to remove these, I'm not looking forward to the return journey, which brings me to my queries for the spanner-wielding S4 and RS4 members: 1) Is it a good idea to use some sealant or lubricant on the O-rings to give additional confidence of a good seal? (I don't want to do this again!). 2) The breather pipes in the Vee and at the back of the engine are of course quite brittle. (Pic attached.) The default action is to order some more from Audi, but has anyone used, say, silicone tubing as a substitute? If you've read this far and have done this job, I'd really appreciate your experience.

Thanks, Rob
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:35 AM
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How many miles are on your S4? I ask because your breather pipes look much better than mine. I assemble the coolant pipes and o rings just by wetting them with engine coolant or a rubber lubricant like Ruglyde and without sealants. I think the key to a good reseal to to make sure the surrounding areas that the o rings seat into need to be thoroughly cleaned and free of corrosion.
Old 09-19-2010, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Peter Badore
How many miles are on your S4? I ask because your breather pipes look much better than mine. I assemble the coolant pipes and o rings just by wetting them with engine coolant or a rubber lubricant like Ruglyde and without sealants. I think the key to a good reseal to to make sure the surrounding areas that the o rings seat into need to be thoroughly cleaned and free of corrosion.
It has 105K miles...

Rob
Old 09-22-2010, 12:05 AM
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Got a genuine set of spider pipes and O-rings, put everything together today. Peter, as per your advice, I used a rubber lube on assembly and the O-ringed pipes slipped in with no fuss. Everything looks dry after a long test drive. Main problem is loss of skin on backs of hands. It's tight at the back of that engine. (bled clutch while I was at it!)

Thanks

Rob
Old 09-22-2010, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by OzS4
Got a genuine set of spider pipes and O-rings, put everything together today. Peter, as per your advice, I used a rubber lube on assembly and the O-ringed pipes slipped in with no fuss. Everything looks dry after a long test drive. Main problem is loss of skin on backs of hands. It's tight at the back of that engine. (bled clutch while I was at it!)

Thanks

Rob
What did you pay for the spider pipes? I was told they are nearly $200.00 at retail?
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