bassist169

drove around a bit more today, used almost half a tank of gas. It seemed to be doing a little bit better until I got into boost, anything about 5 psi of boost and it starts doing it again, almost sounds like something whooshing in the engine. I'm really starting to wonder about this issue. So I got into the engine a little bit, checked the bolts on the intake, took off the Y-pipe and checked the TBB and the hoses and fittings that connect everything. No cracks in anything, the only thing that I did notice was that my diverter valve cover (forge dvs) wasn't tightened down all the way, but I wouldn't think that would cause any problems unless it came off completely. Any more ideas? I'm really questioning whether it is a problem with the coils etc because I can pull pretty hard and get pretty high rpms and as long as I don't try to go into WOT or full boost the problem doesn't seem to appear.....

Texas Twin T

First thing is to do a pressure test.
http://www.awe-tuning.com/resources/...s-in-the-2.7t/

Then I would try swapping the complete coil pack with #4 and #5 and see if the misfire follows the coil pack.

Good luck!

schua

My car suddenly had misfires on cylinder 4 and 1 today. It stumbles throughout the RPM range and the check engine light comes on under heavier load.

schua

I was getting Cylinder 1 + Cylinder 4 codes. Cylinder 1 and 4 are sequential in the firing order (1-4-3-6-2-5).
Swapping ICMs, the codes move to Cylinder 5 and 1.
I'm assuming that the misfire detection is not 100% accurate. I was fortunate to get a CEL that just had detected a misfire on cylinder 4 only at one point in my diagnosis.

Opening up the bad ICM, one wire had failed. 2 others came off as soon as I touched them with tweezers.
Does anyone have a trick to solder these? They look like they're wire bonded with an ultrasonic machine.